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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Engine Shake at Idle / Floating Idle

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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 11:26 AM
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tscholz2001
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Engine Shake at Idle / Floating Idle

I have a 95 F150 302 with around 118700 miles on the clock. As the title says, in park, my engine shakes at idle, almost as if its missing a bit, but can't really be felt inside the cab. The idle in park tends to float around + - 100ish rpm, but not sporadically, just every few seconds (don't know if this is normal or if i'm just overthinking here). Heres a list of everything i've done:
  1. Changed fuel filter (shop said it looked around 10-15 years old, black puddle on the floor, all sorts of gunky)
  2. New motorcraft coppers gapped in spec (.052 - .056), wires and ignition coil
  3. MSD Cap and Rotor
  4. Correct ICM (black one, p/o put in the gray one )
  5. Injector cleaner through tanks numerous times (including techron and BG 44k)
  6. PCV Valve
  7. IAC tested (engine stumbles and dies when unplugged)
  8. Coolant temp sensor tested for correct range (check)
  9. Timing set to 10* BTDC
  10. Both fuel pumps prime correctly
  11. Fuel pressure tested at idle (correct as well as increase when regulator unplugged)
  12. Vacuum tested with smoke (fixed the one leak I had)
  13. Compression test (all within correct percentage to eachother)
Starting the engine backup once its warmed up and hot isn't the greatest; sounds like it cranks a little slow but then picks up just fine, but the startup is stumbly (intermittently). The only thing I really haven't gone into on this truck is the injectors and the EGR. I have my suspicions with the injectors based off of the contents in the fuel filter. EGR seems to function fine, all systems pass KOEO and KOER. Whenever we pulled the plugs, I can't exactly remember but they all looked normal except for I think one, that looked like that cylinder was running lean. I am at a loss anymore and would just like some help out, maybe I'm just a stickler about my truck, sentimental value I guess. Just want the ol' girl running as best as she can. Sorry for the long post but I'd be grateful for anyone that could help out here.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 11:54 AM
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sandymane
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With the filter in the condition it was I would think the injectors could be suspect. I have never owned an MSD component but I have seen some disappointment in them on this forum. Just food for thought. Have you checked the TPS and MAP? Have you checked the idle on both tanks if so equipped? Other than those items you might try the smoke test again. Sandy
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 11:58 AM
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tscholz2001
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Originally Posted by sandymane
With the filter in the condition it was I would think the injectors could be suspect. I have never owned an MSD component but I have seen some disappointment in them on this forum. Just food for thought. Have you checked the TPS and MAP? Have you checked the idle on both tanks if so equipped? Other than those items you might try the smoke test again. Sandy
TPS and MAP are both functioning correctly as they were tested. Truck performs the same on both tanks and I haven't had any bad luck with these MSD parts or any others in the past. Would it be worth it to replace all 8 injectors? What would be a good plan of action here.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 12:12 PM
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I would do the test of the injectors using a screwdriver to the ear on each one and make sure they are clicking. They can be cleaned and there are several methods to do it. Look up for your preferred method. If you saved your old dizzy cap and rotor you might just try them to see what happens. Other than that ????? Sandy
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 12:26 PM
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tscholz2001
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Originally Posted by sandymane
I would do the test of the injectors using a screwdriver to the ear on each one and make sure they are clicking. They can be cleaned and there are several methods to do it. Look up for your preferred method. If you saved your old dizzy cap and rotor you might just try them to see what happens. Other than that ????? Sandy
Any tips on getting to the injectors that are under the intake plenum without having to disassemble everything? Motor was still shaking when the old cap and rotor were in too.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 12:37 PM
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Page two tells you how to work with the ones under the intake. Have you removed the throttle body and checked it for carbon build up in the body and valves? Be prepared to replace the gasket if you have never removed it. I would do this before injectors. Do not adjust the throttle stop screw. If you already have let me know. Sandy

https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/fo...el-injectors-2
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sandymane
Page two tells you how to work with the ones under the intake. Have you removed the throttle body and checked it for carbon build up in the body and valves? Be prepared to replace the gasket if you have never removed it. I would do this before injectors. Do not adjust the throttle stop screw. If you already have let me know. Sandy

https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/fo...el-injectors-2
We didn’t take it completely off, but we sprayed and wiped down the inside by removing the intake tube a few months back. Would completely removing and putting a new gasket on be a good call before injectors?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 12:50 PM
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When you cleaned it, if it was nasty then I would for sure take it off. The TB gasket is known for deterioration and can case a hard to find small vac leak. So I say go for it. Clean those butterfly valves on both sides. Q Tips help. I remove my valves but the screws need the proper screwdriver head as they are tight. I use #4 steel wool to clean them like new. Sandy
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 12:51 PM
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tscholz2001
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Originally Posted by sandymane
When you cleaned it, if it was nasty then I would for sure take it off. The TB gasket is known for deterioration and can case a hard to find small vac leak. So I say go for it. Clean those butterfly valves on both sides. Q Tips help. I remove my valves but the screws need the proper screwdriver head as they are tight. I use #4 steel wool to clean them like new. Sandy
I’ll report back once I clean it up over the next few days, i’ll also report back with the injector test. Thanks for all your help and fingers crossed!
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 01:24 PM
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ZombieF150
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If the injectors appear to be fine I have a recommendation, take it for what it's worth to you.
Get a bottle of Redline SI-1 (that is a capital "i" not a lowercase "l" I can be ordered online. Pour the whole bottle in one tank. It works like a charm at cleaning the fuel system and injectors. Run the tank through and see if you notice a difference. I did it to my 93 and then started a regimen of Marvel Mystery oil every tank fill up and picked up about 1.5 to 2 mpg. Truck was running a little rough and was carboned up when I started and it now purrs and runs much smoother.

I also used the seafoam spray on the inside of the intake and added an oil catch can to keep the oil vapor/water vapor from going into the intake from the PCV system

Now every 6 months or so i add some Techron to a tank and the intake and cylinders are clean as all get out.

Like I said, take it for what it's worth, some people call what i did snake oil, all i know is what the intake and cylinders/ top of the pistons looked like before I started and what they looked like afterwards by using a borescope through the plug holes and in the intake.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 05:46 PM
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tscholz2001
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Originally Posted by ZombieF150
If the injectors appear to be fine I have a recommendation, take it for what it's worth to you.
Get a bottle of Redline SI-1 (that is a capital "i" not a lowercase "l" I can be ordered online. Pour the whole bottle in one tank. It works like a charm at cleaning the fuel system and injectors. Run the tank through and see if you notice a difference. I did it to my 93 and then started a regimen of Marvel Mystery oil every tank fill up and picked up about 1.5 to 2 mpg. Truck was running a little rough and was carboned up when I started and it now purrs and runs much smoother.

I also used the seafoam spray on the inside of the intake and added an oil catch can to keep the oil vapor/water vapor from going into the intake from the PCV system

Now every 6 months or so i add some Techron to a tank and the intake and cylinders are clean as all get out.

Like I said, take it for what it's worth, some people call what i did snake oil, all i know is what the intake and cylinders/ top of the pistons looked like before I started and what they looked like afterwards by using a borescope through the plug holes and in the intake.
Thanks for the advice, i’ll take a look at the redline, just ran some BG 44k through and I feel like it smoothed up a little bit.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 04:06 PM
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Just installed the new throttle body gasket, things seem to be pretty good so far! We pulled off the throttle body and HOLY carbon buildup on the intake side of the throttle body. Cleaned it up all nice and things seem to be pretty good right now. Thanks for all of the help
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 04:34 PM
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sandymane
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Originally Posted by tscholz2001
Just installed the new throttle body gasket, things seem to be pretty good so far! We pulled off the throttle body and HOLY carbon buildup on the intake side of the throttle body. Cleaned it up all nice and things seem to be pretty good right now. Thanks for all of the help
Glad to hear it is running better Sandy
 
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