Big issues with my 2001 PSD
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 275
Likes: 30
From: Metro Detroit
I Just ran a couple of 4 mile loops with FORScan, the lowest IPC I saw was 456 psi at start and up as high as 2316 psi.
What I have determined is the waste gate is closed and is not opening. Now to figure out why?
I can post the live data stream file if that helps.
I did use the bore scope to inspect the pipes around the turbo and I don't see anything out of place. I just washed the whole thing out so I can get a better look.
What I have determined is the waste gate is closed and is not opening. Now to figure out why?
I can post the live data stream file if that helps.
I did use the bore scope to inspect the pipes around the turbo and I don't see anything out of place. I just washed the whole thing out so I can get a better look.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 275
Likes: 30
From: Metro Detroit
wow, I hope that's not the easiest way. I can't imagine what all I will brake trying to get a turbo out that has never been removed in 19 years.
Can I move the rod and see if I can brake it loose? At least get it to the open side and run the engine to be sure that is the issue? I didn't want to just grab it and mover it without knowing the possible dangers.
Can I move the rod and see if I can brake it loose? At least get it to the open side and run the engine to be sure that is the issue? I didn't want to just grab it and mover it without knowing the possible dangers.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 13
From: Glendive, MT
wow, I hope that's not the easiest way. I can't imagine what all I will brake trying to get a turbo out that has never been removed in 19 years.
Can I move the rod and see if I can brake it loose? At least get it to the open side and run the engine to be sure that is the issue? I didn't want to just grab it and mover it without knowing the possible dangers.
Can I move the rod and see if I can brake it loose? At least get it to the open side and run the engine to be sure that is the issue? I didn't want to just grab it and mover it without knowing the possible dangers.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,590
Likes: 382
From: Texas
First, the turbo is seriously easy to get out. I can have mine out in about 20 minutes. Second, if you do go the route of trying to reach under there, remove that rear engine hoist anchor point and you'll be able to get your arm in there quite a bit easier. Ask me how I know LOL
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 394
Likes: 1
From: DFW
Just see if it moves, if so just wire it open and see how things go. Depending on where you live you can just leave it that way. Not needed unless you live
in really cold climate. I think the actuation lever is reachable without removing anything..
in really cold climate. I think the actuation lever is reachable without removing anything..
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 346
Likes: 0
All of you all are recommending the wrong things, first the air filter won't throw codes like the Feedback one. If the exhaust back pressure valve is stuck you will hear the truck hissing when revved up. Have someone Rev the truck up to 2300 rpm and it will sound like a hair dryer hissing. If not then the ebpv isn't closed enough to cause the restriction. There is NO reason to pull the turbo for this. You also don't need to "wire it off" just unplug it. Another thing, the wastegate on the turbo is not the issue. If the wastegate doesn't open, the only thing that can happen is you run too much boost it it wears out the turbo faster. This would not cause a lack of lower, in fact it would increase power. This sounds more like an issue with the water possibly getting into the idm or pcm. Another thing that could be the issue is all that chewed up air filter could have made its way past the turbo and intercooler and gotten stuck on the screen right at the intake manifold of the engine. You can take the boots loose that go into the engine after coming out of the intercooler. Leaking up-pipes probably aren't likely to be causing this bad loss if power either or else you'd probably be seeing black smoke coming out under the hood.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 346
Likes: 0
And to the OP, please get rid of the K&N filter. This is the worst filter to run on our truck because of how poorly it seals. For what you spent on that, you could get the whole riffraff 6637 filter kit that is by far the best and most cost effective filter for our trucks. Easy to install and lasts nearly forever.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 275
Likes: 30
From: Metro Detroit
All of you all are recommending the wrong things, first the air filter won't throw codes like the Feedback one. If the exhaust back pressure valve is stuck you will hear the truck hissing when revved up. Have someone Rev the truck up to 2300 rpm and it will sound like a hair dryer hissing. If not then the ebpv isn't closed enough to cause the restriction. There is NO reason to pull the turbo for this. You also don't need to "wire it off" just unplug it. Another thing, the wastegate on the turbo is not the issue. If the wastegate doesn't open, the only thing that can happen is you run too much boost it it wears out the turbo faster. This would not cause a lack of lower, in fact it would increase power. This sounds more like an issue with the water possibly getting into the idm or pcm. Another thing that could be the issue is all that chewed up air filter could have made its way past the turbo and intercooler and gotten stuck on the screen right at the intake manifold of the engine. You can take the boots loose that go into the engine after coming out of the intercooler. Leaking up-pipes probably aren't likely to be causing this bad loss if power either or else you'd probably be seeing black smoke coming out under the hood.
After I cleaned everything up I found I could use the compressor and unplug red line to the EBPV and actuate it. It moves the rod back and forth without problems. Next thing I'm going to try is to actuate it while it's running but I needed a hose, can't lay across the engine to do it while running.
What I'm thinking is because the rod didn't move from the time I started the truck cold all through warm up. If the pressure actuator is moving the arm but when the truck is warming up it never moves then movement isn't being called for. So how do I diagnose the electronic side of the EBPV. I still believe the root of my problems is damaged wiring from the squirrels.
Also I don't see the arm on the bottom of the turbo outlet moving. The one pictured above. It is not moving when I put air to the arm on top and it is moving back and forth. Is there a diagram somewhere of this system? It's hard for me to figure out this out without even knowing how it works.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 13
From: Glendive, MT
The EBPV is hydraulically operated by engine oil pressure. In the summer, you won't see it move. There is a wire connector for it at the base of the turbo pedistal. If you can get the clip off the link, it should move freely. That clip is a bear to get and easy to lose.
I still don't think that's your problem. I'm still learning towards fuel pressure.
I still don't think that's your problem. I'm still learning towards fuel pressure.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 275
Likes: 30
From: Metro Detroit
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 346
Likes: 0
I don't believe it can be a plugged screen because I have a boost gauge plumbed in just after the turbo and it reads no boost... the best I've seen since this started is 4-5 psi. I agree about the up-pipes not leaking, the firewall would be covered in soot to.
After I cleaned everything up I found I could use the compressor and unplug red line to the EBPV and actuate it. It moves the rod back and forth without problems. Next thing I'm going to try is to actuate it while it's running but I needed a hose, can't lay across the engine to do it while running.
What I'm thinking is because the rod didn't move from the time I started the truck cold all through warm up. If the pressure actuator is moving the arm but when the truck is warming up it never moves then movement isn't being called for. So how do I diagnose the electronic side of the EBPV. I still believe the root of my problems is damaged wiring from the squirrels.
Also I don't see the arm on the bottom of the turbo outlet moving. The one pictured above. It is not moving when I put air to the arm on top and it is moving back and forth. Is there a diagram somewhere of this system? It's hard for me to figure out this out without even knowing how it works.
After I cleaned everything up I found I could use the compressor and unplug red line to the EBPV and actuate it. It moves the rod back and forth without problems. Next thing I'm going to try is to actuate it while it's running but I needed a hose, can't lay across the engine to do it while running.
What I'm thinking is because the rod didn't move from the time I started the truck cold all through warm up. If the pressure actuator is moving the arm but when the truck is warming up it never moves then movement isn't being called for. So how do I diagnose the electronic side of the EBPV. I still believe the root of my problems is damaged wiring from the squirrels.
Also I don't see the arm on the bottom of the turbo outlet moving. The one pictured above. It is not moving when I put air to the arm on top and it is moving back and forth. Is there a diagram somewhere of this system? It's hard for me to figure out this out without even knowing how it works.
The actuator you're blowing air into is the turbo wastegate solenoid which is only useful to bleed off excess boost over 25 psi. People unplug the red hose in order to get more boost, I can ASSURE you that this is not your problem. This wastegate line also has no interaction with the ebpv. Can you please have someone Rev the truck up while you listen to the exhaust? You will hear a noticable hiss and this would help us cross one thing off the list. If it does hiss, you will know because it's loud as hell, then that's your problem.
The EBPV is actuated by a metal rod to the left of the turbo and isn't attached to the turbo where the red hose is. The EBPV has a plug at the very bottom of the turbo pedestal and there are no plastic/rubber hoses that go to it. It's just a metal rod attached to a mechanical solenoid. Trust me I've had my 99 for 20 years, I've done it all.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 346
Likes: 0
This rod you are seeing is the wastegate actuator arm, it is NOT the ebpv arm.
This is the ebpv actuator arm, it's on the bottom of the exhaust housing and it's not going to move unless it's cold outside. This is why I need you to have someone Rev up the truck while you listen. If it sounds normal with the turbo whistle audible then the ebpv isn't your problem. If it sounds like "shhhhhhhhhh" then your ebpv is stuck, you will not be able to make out the sound of the engine or turbo with this hissing.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 275
Likes: 30
From: Metro Detroit
Thabk you for the excellent description. I also spent the morning searching the internet for diagrams of the EBPV and I understand now I was looking at the wrong thing. I will do the rev thing tonight when my wife gets home. The power just went off at work so my day got short. I’ll see if I can get some movement of the arm. If the engine isn’t running I should be able to move the arm I would think.
I can can tell you it’s loud as hell when it warms up while driving when I try to get into it.
I can can tell you it’s loud as hell when it warms up while driving when I try to get into it.