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I think it was primarily with the drop-in K&N and the fit. I always go for filtration even with a little less flow.. They are called air filters for a reason. These
trucks get a lot of miles and can run a very long time.. Just a little more filtration can get you a lot more miles. There are not gas motors that you hope to get 150k
out of.. These can go 500K+ and a little less filtration in that amount of air going through can cost a lot of money to rebuild or even replace the vehicle. Also
there a lot more air moving through these big diesels..
Just because you have one on the way doesnt mean you cant just go to the parts store and get a good fitting one.. As someone mentioned, make sure those
clips that hold the filter cover on are not broken. Sometimes the place where the clips snaps to get broken too. Not a great design, especially if you have a 2K
model. Ford dealer replaced mine and put in a 2001 version because it would not seal correctly.
Reason I guessed the air filter is I had the same issue you had.. Would bog down and then just run fine.. I missed the filter change on the service I did and
forgot to go back.. Mine didnt end up with holes though. We can all mess up.
Theres alot of members running the drop in k/n with no ill effect.
Problem people had could of resulted in an already cracked airbox or bad install/not lined up...
OP..when installing the k/n, do the community a favor and snap a few pics of fit/finish, yeah?
I haven't had any problems with the air box so that may be why the last K&N worked just fine. I'll shoot some pictures when I install, if it showed up today. Amazon said it did as long as no porch pirates got me.
Theres alot of members running the drop in k/n with no ill effect.
Problem people had could of resulted in an already cracked airbox or bad install/not lined up...
OP..when installing the k/n, do the community a favor and snap a few pics of fit/finish, yeah?
My initial reaction wasn’t good. On opening the box the mesh was not in place and I had to re install it. After that it looked good. The fit is snug with no leakage detected. We’ll see how it does.
So after installing the air filter I took it around the block and it still has no power, no boost and high EGT. As it warmed up it got louder and louder as well. I'm going to break out the bore scope and inspect the entire exhaust side.
I had FORscan running but I'm still crap with it and I'm sure I didn't have it setup right and I guess I didn't save it. If someone has a list of PID's I should be monitoring that would be a great help. I did read some of the values...
FIPW was 2 ish ms at idle and didn't go over 4 ms as I drove. I didn't go WOT
I did check the MAP, EBP, and baro. MAP stayed at 14.2 or so and KOEO EBP was the same, running it was 15 to 17 psi. Baro has two choices to monitor and one was zero and the other was pegged at over 17. So I'm guessing that's an issue.
more to follow, having some coffee and then off to play with it some more.
K&Ns, for "general" knowledge, are known to not filter well and dust turbos. I have seen it personally and read of many others. If it were me, I wouldn't run it, committed or not. Up to you....that being said, let's find these other issues. Is there a "whoosh" sound when you get on it? Check you EBPV flap and see if it is stuck closed. Check up-pipes, intercooler boots, and intercooler pipes. Let us know!
K&Ns, for "general" knowledge, are known to not filter well and dust turbos. I have seen it personally and read of many others. If it were me, I wouldn't run it, committed or not. Up to you....that being said, let's find these other issues. Is there a "whoosh" sound when you get on it? Check you EBPV flap and see if it is stuck closed. Check up-pipes, intercooler boots, and intercooler pipes. Let us know!
quick question... EBPV exhaust back pressure valve? Is that the cold start back pressure gate? Where is it?
quick question... EBPV exhaust back pressure valve? Is that the cold start back pressure gate? Where is it?
Yes. You can look at the rod arm underneath the turbo and make sure it is open. IIRC, the arm should be towards the pass side to be "open". Someone may have a photo of it.
Well I spent most of the time I had yesterday evicting the squirrels form the top of the engine. The valley was completely full of insulation from the hood and nesting stuff, oh and don’t forget the bodies. 🤮
After that fun I did find the wastegate arm and with key off it is resting to the drivers side. I also had a friend with a high end scan tool check codes. We got two.
Follwing BB...unhook the redline to the wastegate and shoot compressed air thru the w.g. nipple. See if the arm pushes out
I'm not seeing the red line you reference. there is a red and green line on some sort of vacuum sensor on the front of the intake spider... the red line crossed the air tubes and heads for the firewall from what I can tell.
correction: I found the waste gate solenoid, it is the one with the red and green line.
After that fun I did find the wastegate arm and with key off it is resting to the drivers side. I also had a friend with a high end scan tool check codes. We got two.
With no other codes, I want to know what your fuel pressure is. Low fuel pressure will cause all of your symptoms without setting a code.
I also have not seen where you checked the uppipes.
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