Ordered a pair of door striker bolts from LMC but do not fit. Mine has a larger bolt than what i received and it does not have the 2nd bracket on the backside of the bolt that the LMC one had. My doors are from an XLT Lariat but my cab is a plain Jane standard cab. does that make a difference ? The PO told me they were both 1985. Local Ford dealer has nothing that old in inventory or doesn't want to bother. Other than a junkyard where could i find the correct striker bolt ? Is there a specification for size, etc., ? ...or a part number i could order ?

 

Tell the SOB to

E9AZ-5422008-A (replaced EOTZ-1022008-A) .. Striker Plate - Right/Left is the same / AVAILABLE from Ford!

1980/96 F100/350 & Bronco / 1988/97 F(Super Duty) / 1997 F250 H/D & F350 (front/rear doors on Crew Cabs) // 1980/91 Econoline front, body side hinged and back doors.

Also misc FoMoCo Passenger Cars: 1981/82 Thunderbird/Cougar // 1983/86 Capri & LTD/Marquis (Fox bodies mid-sized) // 1983/89 Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis // 1983/89 Mustang // 1987/89 Lincoln Town Car.

On the 4 door sedans, the striker plate is the same front and rear.

These probably fit 1990 and later cars, but I don't have a car parts catalog after 1989.

 

And I would buy the ones NumberDummy says. In fact, I'm going to do just that myself now.
We had a couple of hot days last month and the same day both the driver's and passenger's striker post sleeves broke off in pieces. Not a problem, the Dorman replacements are relatively cheap.
Went to my local store, had one in stock and ordered the other. There are two, with one being thinner than my original, and the other being (supposedly) the same size. I'm thinking they're a few thousandths too big though, as the doors are super hard to open now.

I'm familiar with the adjustments on these things, and have experimented extensively since putting the new ones in, and only now after using them for more than a month are they even remotely better. No matter how they are positioned to latch, it's like the door is stuck. The latch grippers release as expected, but you have to pull with all your weight behind you to get the doors to open. Just like they're glued shut.
Big PITA as a matter of fact.

Is it still possible I'm doing something wrong? Sure, probably. But not likely as these things are not rocket-science and no amount of lubing or adjusting has seemed to help.
Let you know if the Ford one works any better.

Paul

 

What was wrong with the originals? Did the plastic bushing break off? If so, this thread may be of interest:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-roller.html

 

I've replaced plastic bushings on 2 f150s now, using repro bushings on 1 truck, and making others with PEZ and the Pez stuff works much better. I cut pex to length, split with sheet metal shear, lube inside and work on with a flathead screwdriver. pex is the way to go.

 

If you are a stainless steel fan, Scott Drake has some: E9AZ-5422008-S

 

Is this what you're referring to as the Striker Plate? I just bought replacement bushings only to find out that the old ones are not removable. Doh.

 

That's the striker plate. Ford never sold just the nylon bushing, you had to buy the whole enchilada.

Some people remove the bushing, then replace it with some type of replacement. But how they remove the puppy, I dunno.

Maybe they remove the washer, but how they do that, I dunno.

Cheapskates. (sigh) All these people have to do is go to junkyards, remove them from the rear doors of 4 door sedans, because they get very little wear.

 

I was thinking of burning/melting mine off before I decided to replace the whole thing

 

Ok, good to know. When I search the part number you posted, it brings up pictures of the later striker, the one the OP is saying does not fit.


Can anybody confirm that they do fit and work with that extra wrap around guard on there?

 

Funny KR98664,
In that illustration that striker ( 2208 ) bolt is more like what I've got on my truck. It does not have that squared bracket behind it and is a one piece bolt with a large flange on it which cannot be removed. And hence, I cannot get a plastic bushing on it either. and it bolts into a nut which is already fastened behind the door post.
where did this illustration come from ?

 

The original 1980/82 part number was EOTZ-1022008-A .. It was later replaced by E9AZ-5422008-A This is a 1989 Crown Vic part number.

This number is still good today, so it fits despite what the OP claimed.

The thing is, when a part looks different, people assume it won't fit. Well...it does. I'd be surprised if the OP made an attampt to install it.

Qwist on a bicycle, it just threads on, so what the hell is the problemo?

 

Some of us never need to remove the plastic sleeve because the reason for the new one is the plastic literally broke off in pieces when the door was closed, leaving only the metal shank in place.
It happened on the driver's side of my '79, and just recently both doors of the '93 on the two hottest days of the year recently. And just for the record it's not from slamming the doors. Ever since I'm a little kid and dad was training me not to slam the doors of any car (unless it's needed) I literally NEVER let a door close hard, much less slam any of my truck's or car's doors. All of mine close very easily anyway, so there's no need.
Now I'm the one asking everyone to not slam the doors!

I know Dorman has two that look the same but one has a smaller sleeve diameter. That smaller one is not supposed to be for the trucks, but the ones I bought are acting like the diameter is too large and they basically get wedged into the "sideways-U" shape of the latch. In fact after only a few closings (maybe 25 each or so) the plastic is already showing signs of wear and tear, with big lines where the latch is contacting.
I may try one of the smaller ones anyway, but first I'll get one from the dealer as a comparison. No time for the junkyard right now unfortunately. I kind of enjoy that time spent, just don't have it to spend right now.

Paul

 

The striker bolt i ordered from LMC (E9AZ-5422008-A ) did NOT fit my '85 F-150. My truck has the nut already fastened to the door jamb and the bolt i received would not screw into that jamb / nut.
Also the LMC part i got has a black steel squared L bracket behind the bolt, mine does not have that bracket. However if the bolt would screw/fit into the jamb that bracket would not interfere i do not think.
Also you cannot fit a bushing onto my striker bolt, there is no way to access that portion of the bolt, it has a washer on it that you cannot remove in order to replace the bushing. See "Number Dummy" post/pix above.
So the PO had lots of electrical tape wrapped around it. I don't think that's very safe so i'm looking for a solution.
thanks for any help.

 

It's the only striker plate there is unless you can find a NOS EOTZ-1022008-A (I couldn't find any) or get a user from the rear doors of those 4 door sedans I listed. Otherwise you're SOL!

LMC is the last place I'd buy anything, for all you know, you may have bought something other than E9AZ-5422008-A

LMC's catalogs do not list Ford part numbers and are full of errors and omissions.