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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Door latch Bolt and roller.

 
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:26 PM
BigBlue2
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Door latch Bolt and roller.

I noticed that the plastic roller on the door latch bolt was quite cracked tonight. So I felt it and amazingly it was about to fall apart. Maybe one or two more door closings left it it. I put a few winds of electrical tape around it to hold me till I can replace it. This is a 1986 F250 supercab 4x4 IDI, but should be about the same for most bullnoses. The door bolt looks to be in good condition, only the plastic roller needs replacement. Are there any good roller replacements out there?

Thanks,
BB2
 
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:03 PM
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Exclamation Door Latch Striker Plate

Originally Posted by BigBlue2 View Post
I noticed that the plastic roller on the door latch bolt was quite cracked tonight. So I felt it and amazingly it was about to fall apart. Maybe one or two more door closings left it it. I put a few winds of electrical tape around it to hold me till I can replace it. This is a 1986 F250 supercab 4x4 IDI, but should be about the same for most bullnoses. The door bolt looks to be in good condition, only the plastic roller needs replacement. Are there any good roller replacements out there?

Thanks,
BB2
How is it possible to install the nylon 'roller' on the striker plate (shown as 22008 in pic), since the puppy doesn't come apart and Ford never offered it separately?

 
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy View Post
How is it possible to install the nylon 'roller' on the striker plate (shown as 22008 in pic), since the puppy doesn't come apart and Ford never offered it separately?

I think Dorman sells the complete bolt with plastic sleeve.

One of mine broke a couple years ago in the middle of a long camping trip. To stop the door from rattling, I wrapped the bolt with several layers of self-fusing silicone tape. It worked so well I left that repair installed and even did the other door when that side failed, too.

Here's one brand, if not familiar with the stuff:


https://www.rescuetape.com
 
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kr98664 View Post
I think Dorman sells the complete bolt with plastic sleeve.

One of mine broke a couple years ago in the middle of a long camping trip. To stop the door from rattling, I wrapped the bolt with several layers of self-fusing silicone tape. It worked so well I left that repair installed and even did the other door when that side failed, too.

Here's one brand, if not familiar with the stuff:


https://www.rescuetape.com
Thanks for the tape idea. Sounds like It made a permanent repair for you. I hadn't heard about this tape before. Self fusing means it becomes one after you wrap it on? How do you get it off the roll? is it backed with a removeable layer? I might give it a try.

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Old 04-25-2019, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy View Post
How is it possible to install the nylon 'roller' on the striker plate (shown as 22008 in pic), since the puppy doesn't come apart and Ford never offered it separately?
I guess it might not be possible. I read on the internets about a guy who used a piece of CPVC pipe as a repair...but he might have been prevaricating. How do you remove the door latch bolt assembly? It just unsrews from the door post?

Thanks,
BB2
 
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:43 PM
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:48 PM
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Door Latch Striker Plate

E9AZ-5422008-A (replaced EOTZ-1022008-A) .. Striker Plate R/L F/R (Crew Cab/Passenger Cars) is the same / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.

1980/91 Econoline / 1980/96 F100/350 & Bronco / 1988/97 F(Super Duty) / 1997 F250 H/D & F350.

1981/82 Thunderbird/Cougar XR7 / 1983 Fairmont/Zephyr / 1983/86 Mustang/Capri & LTD/Marquis (Fox body mid-sized) / 1983/90's Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis / 1987/90's Town Car & Mustang.
 
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue2 View Post
Thanks for the tape idea. Sounds like It made a permanent repair for you. I hadn't heard about this tape before. Self fusing means it becomes one after you wrap it on? How do you get it off the roll? is it backed with a removeable layer? I might give it a try.
It's amazing stuff. I just noticed the stuff at the link is pretty spendy. Any hardware store will have similar brands, hopefully at a more reasonable price.

The roll has a backer to keep the layers from sticking to each other. Unlike electrical tape, it has no adhesive, so it doesn't attract dirt. You stretch it slightly during installation and that somehow makes it adhere to itself. You've got a few minutes if you need to reposition it, but after that it's pretty much permanent. Most times you can unwind it, but sometimes you have to cut it off.

This is the same basic stuff automakers use to wrap electrical harnesses. No adhesive mess, and pretty much lasts forever. There's no comparison to ordinary electrical tape, which gets brittle with age and leaves a gummy residue. We use this stuff extensively in aviation to cushion wire bundles in connector clamps. Keep some in your glovebox for emergency repairs, such as fixing a pinhole in a radiator hose.
 
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Old 04-26-2019, 07:57 AM
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Seems like almost all the Fords with this style door latch use same part. I went to the junkyard searching for good ones. Hard to find ones not worn out. Then my "Aha!" Moment- rear doors on old crown Vic's. Not used often and all that I found were in excellent condition. Unbolts in a few seconds. I grabbed a few extra for me and my friend who has a bullnose with hard to close doors.
 
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Old 04-26-2019, 08:14 AM
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Go to the hardware store and get a short piece of PEX water pipe tubing. Cut it to the correct length, slit it down the side, and slip it on. Installation takes about 5 seconds and it works well.
 
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Old 04-26-2019, 09:08 AM
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RED PEX fit mine. Used my PVC cutting tool to split it and slip it on. tough to cut.
 
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Odisvan View Post
RED PEX fit mine. Used my PVC cutting tool to split it and slip it on. tough to cut.

Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
Go to the hardware store and get a short piece of PEX water pipe tubing. Cut it to the correct length, slit it down the side, and slip it on. Installation takes about 5 seconds and it works well.
PEX tube looks like the way to go. I assume you used 1/2" PEX? If not what size PEX did you use?

Comes in several colors, I don't imagine the color makes much difference.

I have never used PEX before. I'm going to get some white PEX and give it a try.
 
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Old 04-26-2019, 02:53 PM
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I think it was 1/2". But it was a long time ago. It's still on there.
 
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Old 04-26-2019, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
I think it was 1/2". But it was a long time ago. It's still on there.
Yes, 1/2" in PEX provides the right ID and OD. If one were to try CPVC you'd need to get 3/8" pipe. If you have your choice get PEX. Spoke with a plumber friend of mine, he says PEX is extremely tough. Really glad to hear that your repair has been long term. For a buck you can get a 5' piece of PEX so it's a lifetime supply!

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Old 04-27-2019, 09:56 PM
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I think the ultimate repair would be a piece of PEX tubing with a wrap or two of the self fusing silicon tape. That would make the OD about the same as the original nylon bushing and cover up the slit in the PEX to get it on the bolt. But as a stitch in time to save 9, I would say wrap the existing nylon ones before they break. The self fusing tape looks like it will keep the old ones compressed, protected and going for a long time.

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