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Hi all, we got this 46 1/2 ton from my grandfather and my great uncle rebuilt the motor and re-installed but my grandfather seems to think that the positive cable is hooked to the wrong place. He seems to think it should go from the positive to the frame or to the front of the cab but it currently goes to the engine block. Does this look right as is?
This ground connection will work; the one on my truck goes down and connects to the bell housing. There is a short threaded stud from the body that is below the solenoid in your pic; there should be a grounding strap between that and the bell housing on that side. It wouldn't hurt to also have a strap from the drive train to the frame.
The battery's positive terminal, the engine block, and the truck's frame need to all be electrically connected to each other with very low resistance connections. The order of the connections doesn't matter.
My truck has the battery's positive terminal connected to the frame under the passenger seat. There is also a braided ground strap between the back of the engine block and the frame.
After my engine was rebuilt and reinstalled in my COE, it just barely cranked over. The ground strap between the engine and the frame was the problem. It wasn't making good enough contact with the newly painted block. I removed the bolt from the block and wire brushed the paint off under the bolt where the braided ground strap was connected. It has been fine ever since.
The battery's positive terminal, the engine block, and the truck's frame need to all be electrically connected to each other with very low resistance connections. The order of the connections doesn't matter.
My truck has the battery's positive terminal connected to the frame under the passenger seat. There is also a braided ground strap between the back of the engine block and the frame.
After my engine was rebuilt and reinstalled in my COE, it just barely cranked over. The ground strap between the engine and the frame was the problem. It wasn't making good enough contact with the newly painted block. I removed the bolt from the block and wire brushed the paint off under the bolt where the braided ground strap was connected. It has been fine ever since.
Thank you for the info. Mine barely cranks over as well, it starts but cranks VERY SLOW. I will check it out.
That cable going to the solenoid relay, hard to tell looking at the pic but it looks old. It appears to be sized correctly in terms of gauge but old cables always have excessive resistance and voltage drop. A barely measurable fraction of an ohm is enough to cripple a low voltage high current circuit. 6 volt systems turn over slower than 12 volt systems by nature, though if it's actually turning over slower than a 6 volt starting system should you can bet the ignition system too is getting choked off, and engine starting can be difficult. Bright shiny electrical connections throughout keep those electrons happy.
Looks Good. I used a heavy cable instead of a prided cable. Make sure contacts are brushed clean. I also applied some liquid electrical contact stuff ((Deoxit from Craig Labs) www.craig.com) to all contacts. Wire brush those generator contacts too. I got better charging thereafter.
I use T&B Kopr-Shield surface compound on all electrical connections and attachment points. It prevents corrosion and is conductive. A half pound can will last you a lifetime...good stuff.
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