been a while since I've been here, trying to help out a friend

Info I have, 2007 6.oh will start normally and sometimes immeadiatly stall. Will restart normally and sometimes immeadiatly stall other times will stay running then stall when put in gear. while driving, coasting up to a stop it will sometimes stall. coasting around a corner it will sometimes stall.

Before he gave it to me to see what I can figure out, he sent it to the local Ford dealership, they couldn't figure out the stalling problem. they put in 2 batteries, did an oil change and filter and changed the fuel filters.

When I got it first thing I did was clean and check all battery terminals cuz I have history there. I hooked up the scanner no codes. put the scangauge on it. All the pids I cycled through are normal. When it does stall, like I turned the key, icp, ipr, sync,vref,fmp, flp, are all normal.

Messing with it this morning, sitting in the driveway going from park to reverse to drive back to park or neutral after a bunch of times it stalls. tried unplugging the icp, does the same thing. the scangauge indicates that the icp is slightly flucuating around 875 this with the icp unplugged. Just a couple points up and down. when it stalls with the icp unplugged the pid for the icp jumps to 9xx.

thanks in advance

 

That's an odd one. It's kind of a shot in the dark, but I might try to idle the truck and wiggle every harness possible under the hood and see if you can find something that causes it to stall.

 

yeah it is.

my old truck I finally found poor/corroded battery connections that would cause random stalling. He said it died 3 times on his way over which is a 15 minute ride. I drove his truck for a day without a hiccup after I cleaned and checked the battery connections, thought I had it. next day stalled 3 times at 1 stop sign.

I'll mess with it some more today.

thanks for the input

 

well now I'm in a pickle. the owner had a previous cam sensor open code and wanted the cam sensor changed.

Changed the sensor uising oem, lots of fun. now it'll crank, fire for a second and quit. If I crank on the starter with about half throttle it will run. I have sync, good icp, ipr ficm voltages. truck will stay running if I keep rpms about 1100. quits when it goes below that or I put it in gear.

 

What did you use to check for codes?

Do you have a known good FICM to try in it?

Probably two of the more common reasons for stalling are FICM problems and an IPR short.

Unplugging the ICP only helps if the ICP sensor itself is bad. That doesn't look like your issue. If you checked for codes after starting w/ the ICP unplugged, then you don't have a very good code reader. Starting w/ the ICP unplugged SHOULD throw a code.

 

cen-tech obd2 with abs, the scan gauge is useless for codes.

it was a P2614 and P0470

 

I did get a code for the ICP which I cleared

 

something I hadn't noticed before.

after the vacuum pump and other noises under the hood stopped I noticed a gurgling, air bubbly sound coming from the 2nd fuel filter.

the filters were just done at ford. the water drain on the hfcm is frozen.

think I'm going to have to pull the hfcm


thoughts?

 

Replaced the cover and the harness and installed the hfcm with new filters. No gurgling noises now but still won't start without excessive cranking. Had it run for about 20-30 seconds let the rpms drop below 1100 and it quit. I noticed the volts were about 13.5-13.8 from the alternator. The alternator was hot enough I couldn't keep my hand on it.

Starting to think the Ficm may be toast.

 

well the fun continues.

spoke with ficm repair and he thought it sounded like a fuel issue and recommended to do the blue spring upgrade. actually found one att the local ford dealer.

first bolt I touched on the regulator cover broke. bad words ensued. the rest came out fine. will try and drill it out and tap it tomorrow.

 

Hey there, i think my '96 f250 is having similar sounding issue. Do u have a solution yet?

 

nope. still working on it

 

update

actually found a drill and tap local the correct size! got the hole fixed and everything back together. there was a small piece of black mush behind the brass cup. no idea what it was but I know the owner wasn't big on changing filters.

turn key, fuel pump pumps, injectors clatter, wait for the glow plugs to cycle off and crank it. cranks for 2 seconds catches and immeadiatly quits, pids are normal. give it long crank with a little throttle fires and runs above 1000 rpms and it sounds a little smoother/quieter which i assume is because of the blue spring.

something I just realized is that the spot I'm working on it is slightly nose up. when it was drivable, it stalled on me at an intersection that is slightly nose up. I seem to remberwith oil pressure issues parking nose down would drain the hpop resivoir. don't know if this has anything to do with it.

I'm not sure where to go now. Any thoughts?

 

messed with the truck a little more today. had to crank it to get it running. propped a pry bar on the throttle to keep it about 1100 rpms. checked voltages on the batteries and alternator all normal . let it run a little to charge the battery the pry fell of the throttle while I was under the hood. alternator was wicked hot. grabbed the temp gun the alternator was 168* shot the turbo and it was 203* after maybe 30 seconds of running.

popped the fuel filter cover off and got a sucking sound??? took the filter out and there was about half a bowl of diesel. not long after there was no diesel in the bowl.

put some PS cetane boost in to see if drained out which it didn't. put the filter back in cycled the key a few times and gave it a long crank fired up and held the throtttle to about 1100rpms. propped the pry bar again let run for 3-4 minutes. checked the fuel bowl agian it was full.

????

 

You’ll be replacing the alternator.

As Mark said, fuel draining is normal.