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Im working on a '92 F250 351w 4x4 5-speed manual.
I primarily use it around the farm at lower speeds for random farm chores every day and the idle started kicking up whenever I pressed the gas to go and would stick there (not sure at what RPM) untill I pressed the clutch then it would drop back to idle but would still jump up and down. So found out my computer bit the dust and replaced it. That improved the idle but it still jumped around, so replaced the IAC and that stopped the up and down idle. I replaced the TPS a couple years ago before the computer fried. Now it idles smooth but when the throttle is pressed or goosed it holds the idle slightly higher for a couple seconds then drops, or holds idle higher while the truck is rolling (clutch in or out) untill I come to a stop then idle comes down. Any ideas what could be the cause of this? I've done a ton of research online and all I have to show for it is a long list of sensors to throw at it. Any help would be appreciated if this problem sparks any ideas. If yall have any question, ask away!
Since you never mentioned diagnostic codes I assume you haven't run them. Try this with a paperclip or a jumper like he uses. The code/s should help isolate the problem. Sandy
After retrieving codes, I’d check the throttle body for binding and carbon buildup. I have had several throttle bodies wear out over time. The shaft will move in the bushings allowing the butterflies to bind up. Just like the throttle shaft in a carburetor wears out.
Since you never mentioned diagnostic codes I assume you haven't run them. Try this with a paperclip or a jumper like he uses. The code/s should help isolate the problem. Sandy
After retrieving codes, I’d check the throttle body for binding and carbon buildup. I have had several throttle bodies wear out over time. The shaft will move in the bushings allowing the butterflies to bind up. Just like the throttle shaft in a carburetor wears out.
Great, I'll try retrieving codes but the check engine light hasn't been on. I tested the TPS and I'm not sure if the increase and decrease in volts is smooth enough to be considered good for what it's sending to the ECM but I've decided to go ahead and throw another TPS on it to be safe, so while I have the throttle body off ill clean it out and check it as well. I'm assuming there will be obvious play in the shaft if it's shot?
Last edited by BrianJoyner93; Jul 21, 2019 at 06:07 PM.
Reason: Afterthought, Add more info.
Great, I'll try retrieving codes but the check engine light hasn't been on. I tested the TPS and I'm not sure if the increase and decrease in volts is smooth enough to be considered good for what it's sending to the ECM but I've decided to go ahead and throw another TPS on it to be safe, so while I have the throttle body off ill clean it out and check it as well. I'm assuming there will be obvious play in the shaft if it's shot?
An old throttle body will almost always need a new gasket or a vacuum leak will occur. Same with the IAC if you removed it also. Sandy
After retrieving codes, I’d check the throttle body for binding and carbon buildup. I have had several throttle bodies wear out over time. The shaft will move in the bushings allowing the butterflies to bind up. Just like the throttle shaft in a carburetor wears out.
Originally Posted by sandymane
An old throttle body will almost always need a new gasket or a vacuum leak will occur. Same with the IAC if you removed it also. Sandy
Sorry for the long delay in response. Found no codes but I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it up real nice and replaced it with a new gasket. Also put a new TPS sensor on it and I think that was the problem, she's running pretty dang smooth now besides a tick in #1 or #2 cylinder and a slight miss. Thats all I really could ask of her for the time being untill its time for a full rebuild. Thanks for the insight guys!
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