I am hoping some of you here have some good experience with generators. What I am curious about is how reliable and serviceable you have found certain generators to be. That covers a lot of ground - engines, alternators, and control circuitry/voltage regulation.

At some point I'd like to get a 10kw generator or so. I was thinking an 8kw would be ideal, but thinking about it more I think a 10kw would be better - a bit more head room. I have a Honda EU2200i and an open-frame 2800w generator now - which they will run plenty. So in the way I am thinking through things - consistent power can be from a smaller/more efficient generator, then the bigger one would just be for loads that can't run on the small ones. I can't weld and my air compressor won't go on either of my generators, for example. I am going to find out if my well pump at my cabins will go when I get there - I presume it will be too much draw for either of the generators (110v pump, not sure on the wattage, hp, or amperage of the motor). None of those "heavy" loads would run enough to need to run a high power generator constantly so the efficiency of a 8kw vs 10kw generator is a moot point - the same draw on either would be less of a load for the 10kw so the lighter use seems like it would be better than if the load was approaching the max rating.

I have read a lot of reviews that talk about people waiting for weeks with generators at service centers waiting to be repaired. I used to think Generac was a decent brand, but I have pretty much crossed them off my list - mainly because they won't share technical information with anyone other than an authorized/certified tech. Northstar uses Honda engines. They are higher up on my list right now than anything else. However, the serviceability of the Honda engines has me a bit shy - same with my EU2200i generator. Briggs and Kholer engines seem to be fairly serviceable, but I am thinking Honda has the edge on quality over either Briggs or Kholer.

Knowing what you know and what you have dealt with in past experience on use and working on your, or others', generators - what direction would you look for a 10kw generator and why?

 

Steve, It looks like you are asking about something NOT to use with the RV? More of a home unit? Largest portable Gens I see are in the 8Kw range. Not sure I've ever seen a 10Kw portable? It it were, it would be a heavy beast.

 

I used to used a “portable” Yamaha 12,000 watt ten gallon gas generator (I think, can’t recall exactly) for my house years ago. Worked fine for the well pump, furnace, etc when the power went out.

Was “portable” only in that it was on a wheeled frame that could be rolled around, but as described above, it was heavy. Definitely not something you could lift in and out if a truck, for example.

Worked great. Never had any issues with it. Was a key start, so just always made sure I had a good battery.

Switched to a whole house Generac propane generator on an automatic switch about ten years ago; much less hassle to deal with when the power is out.

 

I had a class 'A' motorhome with a 6k generator that ran all the systems (30 amp) quite well. Of course, it was mounted in a bay and plumbed to the camper's fuel tank and such so I wouldn't characterize it as a "portable" unit.
I have two Westinghouse inverter generators similar to the Honda. One is 2200 amps and the other is 2800 amps. They both have the fuel saving rpm reduction under light load. And can be connected in parallel. Unfortunately, neither is able to run my (30 amp) camper by itself, nor can they be allowed to idle down. When the air conditioner kicks on, for example, the generator can't catch up and either trips it's breaker or shuts off entirely.
I do have a Champion 3500 construction generator that I can (barely) lift into the bed of my truck that will run my camper quite handily. It's just too loud to use anywhere other than at home when the power goes out.
So, based on my experiences, I'd look for a Yamaha EF4500iSE for a 30 amp camper or the Yamaha EF6300iSDE for 50 amp service.
Alternatively, you could parallel a couple EF220iS generators. I just don't know if they would have to run at full rpm all the time in order to handle the surge from air conditioner start up or not.

 

The Cummins/Onan service center local to me is about 35 miles away. It's not a small facility. They performed a level II maintenance on my RV 5.5kw generator. It was done quickly. I had to fix a clamp that they didn't that was allowing fuel to leak. Other than that, I had no issue with the work they did.

I don't think Onan makes a true portable generator. They're fixed/installed generators.

 

I've had 2 Honda generators....an EM5000SX and currently an EU7000is. The 5000 had over 3k hours on it (and is currently being used by another moto family that we camp with) and the 7000 currently sits around 2300. All I do is change the oil and clean the filter monthly, blow out the dust about every 4 months, and store it with ethanol free fuel for maintenance.

Can't speak to serviceability because they don't break down. The only issue I have ever encountered with either is with the 7000. I bought it used with 1k hours on it, and it would cut out and die at irregular intervals. Turned out there is a sock-type filter in the fuel tank (its fuel injected) and it needed to be changed. Cleaned the original with starter fluid to get me through the weekend, and then changed it out later that week. I keep a spare on hand now.

The 7000 is a really good generator. I have seen it spike to 8000 watts when starting multiple loads and run continuously at 6000 all day long in the heat and never falter. It has about a 6 gallon tank which will last for about 8 hours at full load.

 

We live in the country, so we are some of the last to get power back on if/when it goes out.

I have a Briggs and Straton 6500 for the home backup. I have it wired to the main breaker panel and the critical circuits identified. Things like well pump, main living area lights, deep freezer, fridge, etc...

We have a Westinghouse iGen 2500 for our 5th wheel. I installed an EasyStart364 on ou AC. This allows our single 2500 watt inverter generator to run the AC and low amp draw items. We have 400 watts of solar and 550 AH of Trojan batteries in the camper. So, if we needed the generator could bulk charge the batteries via the converter if needed too.

The generator is only used in low AH periods if solar has been insufficient or if we need to run the AC for the dogs while boondocking.

As for maintenance, they are simply small engines and most small engine shops will take them in. Oil changes are easy and cheap. They are generally air cooled, so no coolant needed. Soark plugs are cheap and easy.

Really, they should be run every 6 months or so up to operating temperature, then the fuel supply cut off to run dry if on gasoline. If on natural gas, it is not neccessary to run dry. Regular maintenance which is a fraction of any vehicle you drive is easily done with a starter tool kit.

The biggest problem you have with a generator is properly sizing it for the intended use with a bit of wiggle room to grow. Remember that every generator will have a peak/surge and a running/maintaining rating.

 

From a lawn service professional with 23 years of experience with various engine manufacturers I would proceed as follows.

Honda
Kawasaki
Kohler
Briggs

Sorry I have no experience with Onan.

I'm not rating the above by servability but by which engine requires service the least from top to bottom.

 

After hurricane Katrina I installed a fixed home generator, propane fueled. It may be the Generic brand, or definitely a similar model; I believe its a Kohler motor. I'm thinking its rated at 15K-16K.
It has a 12 breaker automatic transfer switch - and once a week it runs itself to recharge the internal battery. I get buy with a single dedicated 250 gal propane tank and top it off once a year (typically about 100 gal to refill).

Other than my stove and AC unit it basically powers the whole house. The limiting factor here was only 12 available breakers.
I also added an hour meter (at initial install) and the last time I checked it was only approaching 300 hours.

Routine annual maintenance includes new spark plugs, oil and oil filter and a cleaning of the breather filter. Over the years I've gotten slack here, it may be time to repeat.
The only unscheduled maintenance has been the need to replace several SPLIT batteries - I've previously lost two that way. By memory I think I'm now well along on battery #3 and so it may be time to replace.

One poor design that's coming to light is the actual outer cover, it is rusting away near the battery (likely related to bursting batteries).

It has offered peace of mind all these subsequent years.

 

Correct. The small generators are much more efficient and would handle most uses, camping or not. There are portable generators that are upwards of 20kw.

You are correct - they are heavy.

This is the one I have my eye on at the moment:
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...7368_200467368

10,500 watts running/13,000 watts surge
Shipping weight 359lbs (without wheel kit - that is another option).

Thanks for the input. Although your home unit isn't in the same class as what I am inquiring about, how has Generac been to deal with? Have you ever done any of your own maintenance or had someone come out and do it either as a service plan/contract or otherwise?

Thanks for the input. The 2800w open frame generator is like the 3500 you describe. It is a beast to move around. OK on the yamaha's.

Excellent to hear. I got my EU2200i off the same reliability claims and how quiet it is. I've used other peoples' in the past but everyone I've heard from had pretty positive things to say. I've never known anyone thats used a higher wattage inverter Honda before - so thats good to hear they are as good as the small ones. That is just a different class generator than I'm after.

Good stuff

Good info. OK on the maintenance. I am familiar with the running/surge power requirements. That's why I want to go bigger so I am not tasking the generator as heavy on the heavy loads I will have for it.

Good info. That is about how I envisioned Honda - being pretty high on that type of list.

There have been a lot of suggestions on the inverter generators. Though those are interesting generators, I don't think those are where I want to focus. I'd rather have a conventional open frame generator.

Again - I envision the smaller generators I have as those to take the bulk of the generator usage I encounter then a big one just for the intermittent loads the small ones can't handle, either singly or combined. I can run my AC in my main cabin off the 2800w generator, for example (110v room AC, not installed central) - but if I have the fridge, lights, and a TV on it I'm overloading. So if I split off the stuff that runs most of the time to the EU2200i and leave the AC to the 2800w just for the time it runs I'm fine - and we're keeping the noise down.

I've thought about paralleling a second EU2200i - the one with the 30A plug - but I don't think that is the direction I want to go. I did mod mine with an external fuel tank (I converted everything to Johnson/Evinrude style marine fuel fittings and have been in the process of doing that with everything that we acquire going forward - makes interchangeability between motors and generators a piece of cake so long as we only add 2cyc oil to the gas the boats that are 2 stroke use when we pair a tank with a motor). Having a pair of EU2200i's running off a big tank does sound enticing, but I think the additional EU2200i isn't going to net the wattage I need - nor does the set up have 220v. If my uses can run off a single EU2200i for 90% of what I need and I know I have some heavy loads I'd rather just stick to the one EU2200i then use the 2800w for that extra "bump", or what ever bigger generator I end up with, depending on necessity.

I've even thought about wiring in the pressure switch to the well pump at my cabins to a logic circuit that would trip an electric start generator to start, run, then shut off again as our water usage dictates. That is a bit later down the road and another conversation topic, but an interesting thought.

 

I have two Honda 2200 generators. I can parallel them together. With one generator, I can run my 15K BTU A/C for about three hours on a gallon of gas. It runs 10+ hours on ECO mode, if I am only running the Fridge, TVs, phone charges, laptop, etc. The AC runs the generator a lot faster.

I have Easy Starts by MicroAir on both my ACs, so I can run a single AC on ECO mode for a long time.

I also have an extended run gas tank kit than will allow the generator to have 7 gallons of gas and run for multiple days. I did not want a generator I had to have three men and boy to carry.

My Honda generators are both the same kind, twins, not the companion model with the 30 Amp outlet. They are cheaper. ~$750 brand new at Home Depot with my discounts. I use a Predator parallel kit. I did add a quick disconnect wire for the ground attachment.

 

I got the new fall/winter Northern Tool catalog in the mail and spotted the following and remembered this thread with the discussion of what a "portable" generator was.

Powerhorse, one of Northern Tool's "store brands", has a 27,000 watt surge/18,000 watt running "portable" generator. It is in the catalog as a new item, however it is listed on the website under the product number as "no longer available". Not sure what the deal is.

In any event, the shipping weight on it is 684lbs, it has a v-twin engine, and a 17 gallon fuel tank. Holy crap. Price is listed as $2899.99, so for the specs that is a good price.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...6275_200756275

Apparently, the Powerhorse generators are supposed to be decent units. The reviews are favorable and the staff at the store I visited a few days ago spoke well about them. I think I still would prefer to go with their Northstars, though, as they run honda engines. I am still skeptical on the alternator, and overall electrical side, quality - not just in the Northstars but all of them. I have the feeling the electrical side is sorta like a fuse or circuit breaker. If you have a device that draws a continuous 9 amps and you put a 10 amp fuse or circuit breaker in you have very little margin. Whereas if you had a 15 or 20 amp fuse/circuit breaker you aren't cutting things so close - as long as the wiring can take the draw. If it can't then I'd rather have both a higher rated fuse/circuit breaker and thicker wiring. If you do run the 10 amp fuse, how long will it go? Sure, it will protect the circuit from damage, but if it blows regularly its not enough.

Back to the original discussion - I wired up my generators at the cabins to test a few things. Oddly enough, the well pump starts much easier on my little Honda inverter generator than it does on the open frame (I was actually very shocked - that little generator is incredible). The only load I can't run with what I have (that we could really use when the power is out) is the water heater. It has 2x 3000w coils and runs on 220v. The spec sticker shows it uses 3000w, but I think that might be a typo because if each coil is on simultaneously that is 6000w, not 3000. In an ideal setting what I need is something that will run the water loads at the same time. That means start the well pump at the same time the draw is there from the water heater. That may be a pretty hard row to hoe. If the water loads are segregated from everything else, though, I can run the whole complex off the EU2200 for as much electricity as we use. So that is a pretty damn good deal for as efficient as that unit is.

 

I guess "portable" is a subjective term...

 

For what it is worth - I found a theory that helps explain the draw on a conventional generator pretty well (one of my core questions to get at the reliability). The diagram I made is a bit crude, but it should help to visualize:




Generator alternators can supply up to a certain amount of current. Note that is amps, not watts like generators are always listed/advertised/categorized as. The max current on circuit A of my diagram is the same max current for B and.... C as well.

If you have a 110v load that is, lets say, 10 amps and a 220v load that is also 10 amps the wattage consumed is:
(220v)(10a) = 2200w
(110v)(10a) = 1100w

2200w + 1100w = 3300 watts consumed by both loads together.

Working this backwards, if you have a generator that can run 3300w that wattage is at circuit C in my diagram. So breaking the math down on that you get:

(3300w)/(220v) = 15 amps.

That means both circuits A and B, independently, can only supply 15 amps.

If you try to run a 10 amp 220v load at the same time as a 10 amp 110v load, lets say that 110v load is at B, then you have the following break down of current:
10a @ 220v through both A and B (C goes through both)
10a @ 110v across B
Result is 20a across B

If the generator, at 3300w rated, can only supply 15a you are 5 amps short at B.

That means you have to take the current at 20 amps total, regardless of what voltage it is drawn from. So even though your wattage requirement is 3300 you have to have a generator that can supply 4400 watts, you just aren't maximizing that. You still need the current it can push - on one side of the alternator at 110v. You would, however, have another 10 amps available to use at A, though.

I was working with a couple reps at a store last week trying to figure the above out. Without digging in to the numbers that far they thought a starting point would be around 9000 watts for my loads. Even before getting to the reliability question I have to get to get to how the loading on the generator works. After running the math I think I'm at 9,460-10,320 watts as a starting wattage (220v on the low end, 240v on the high end) for a generator based on the ability for an alternator to push current, not the wattage consumed. Even a 10k spec'd unit may not be enough, let alone the guys at the store coming up with 9,000w. Then is the current (in my case I came up with 43 amps) going to burn out the alternator in short order if it is right at the spec limit? Or should there be more head room? To a certain extent, the alternator is electromechanical so whether there is a load on it or not there is wear.

If I stay with gasoline most likely I'll go with a Honda engine. Then the question is the alternator - what size and what brand. Honda is out - they don't have a unit powerful enough (and in the mid-upper $4000 range it is awfully expensive for the wattage). I suppose parts availability and technical support might be the most important. If I don't have to have someone else (IE - take it, or send it in to, a repair facility) fix it if/when something does go I'd rather not do that.

 

At work I have 28 Honda generators and they get used a lot.
Very reliable and work great, but nothing as big as you want.