4wd light flashing
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Junior User
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From: Vancouver Island, BC
4wd light flashing
All,
Just getting my '95 4.0 awd on the road after it sitting for a few years, today I put in a new o2 sensor, which turned off the check engine light.
On the second drive out, the 4wd light kept flashing three times, waiting a few times, and then flashing three times.
When this was happening, I also felt -- for the first time in my ownership -- an intermittant vibration from the left front, but after stopping for a bit, the light and the vibration didn't happen again driving home.
Thoughts as to what it might be?
Just getting my '95 4.0 awd on the road after it sitting for a few years, today I put in a new o2 sensor, which turned off the check engine light.
On the second drive out, the 4wd light kept flashing three times, waiting a few times, and then flashing three times.
When this was happening, I also felt -- for the first time in my ownership -- an intermittant vibration from the left front, but after stopping for a bit, the light and the vibration didn't happen again driving home.
Thoughts as to what it might be?
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Vancouver Island, BC
Sensors and plug in under seat
Looks like this might be a diff sensor problem?
I've read that there is a plug under the seat to disconnect the TC lock feature; which plug is it? Am I correct that the awd Aerostar is full-time awd, but a locking t-case when wheel-slip is sensed?
Thanks,
Dave
I've read that there is a plug under the seat to disconnect the TC lock feature; which plug is it? Am I correct that the awd Aerostar is full-time awd, but a locking t-case when wheel-slip is sensed?
Thanks,
Dave
Lead Driver
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From: SoCal
Another cause of 4wd failure is a burned out brake light bulb. But that would also cause the ABS and cruise control to fail as well, and the torque converter won't lock up.
The E4WD control module is under the driver's seat, so you can disable it by unplugging it. That will leave it in passive 4wd mode, where the center differential will remain open with no lockup function. So if you get into a real slippery situation like that, and you have no limited slip rear differential, the van effectively becomes a 1wd vehicle.
The E4WD control module is under the driver's seat, so you can disable it by unplugging it. That will leave it in passive 4wd mode, where the center differential will remain open with no lockup function. So if you get into a real slippery situation like that, and you have no limited slip rear differential, the van effectively becomes a 1wd vehicle.
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Junior User
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From: Vancouver Island, BC
Thank you for the burned-out brake light bulb tip; I would never have guessed that!
I've read that a manual switch can be used instead of the electronic actuation of the t-case lock? The sensors are getting difficult to find.
I've read that a manual switch can be used instead of the electronic actuation of the t-case lock? The sensors are getting difficult to find.
Last edited by davran; Jul 15, 2019 at 01:20 PM. Reason: typo
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
Yes, in theory, you can just bypass the E4WD control module with a switch to the TC solenoid to lock the front and rear driveshafts together. The control module is more sophisticated in that it constantly monitors the front and rear wheel speeds to decide if slippage is occurring. If it interprets that slippage is happening, it will periodically lock the TC clutch, and release to check if slippage is still occurring, and lock again as necessary. And it doesn't operate at all above a certain vehicle speed, as the normal 30f/70r split of the center differential must be run open at higher speeds. If you can remember to do all that with your switch, you should have no problems operating it manually.
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From: Vancouver Island, BC
What do you propose we do when there are no more new sensors for this system? I can't find any.
I'll hook up the manual switch, and lock the t-case when I need it. In the future I intend to put in a manual t-case from a ranger, so no sensors will be needed.
I'll hook up the manual switch, and lock the t-case when I need it. In the future I intend to put in a manual t-case from a ranger, so no sensors will be needed.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
Is the Ranger TC fully manual? That would be an improvement over the complicated automatic system. If you do this conversion, please keep us posted on the process.
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From: Vancouver Island, BC
I read awhile ago that someone has done this swap, and it's bolt-on. I was warned though that low-range locked can destroy the aerostar's d28 front diff, so my thought is to put a limited-slip in the rear diff, and I'd use low range of the t-case only when really needed, and only withnwheels pointed straight.
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Junior User
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From: Vancouver Island, BC
For now I pulled fuse# 15, for the awd. I know this means that the t-case won't lock, but it lets me drive the van.
With this fuse pulled the torque-convertor lock-up still works, so at least that doesn't run in a
series through this fuse.
With this fuse pulled the torque-convertor lock-up still works, so at least that doesn't run in a
series through this fuse.
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Junior User
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From: Vancouver Island, BC
It'll still have full-time awd, but not a locking transfer case; one wheel could end up spinning if stuck. I'm hoping cleaning my present diff sensors will be a real fix, for now, as I can't source new sensors.
My plan is a ranger manual transfer case and a rear limited-slip diff.
My plan is a ranger manual transfer case and a rear limited-slip diff.
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