When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have been having to turn my ignition switch further than normal to get a start. I ran the truck this morning and went to restart again and the ignition switch did not engage the starter. I assumed it was a bad cylinder, so I bought a new one. Still does the same thing. No hit to the starter. I do have a tilt wheel and I ASSUME the actuator rod is broken. Any info on the 91 is sketchy at best so I am looking for advice before going further and pulling the steering wheel etc. Any advice or tips how to proceed would be appreciated. Thanks Sandy
I wrote these up about 20 years ago when I did my first one:
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel. 2) Remove the turn signal lever. 3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts. 5) Remove ignition lock cylinder. 6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of. 7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft. 11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it. 12) Drive the roll pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out. 15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column. 17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
First I would drop the steering column down from the dash(simple 2 or 4 bolts) and remove the plastic cowling from around the steering column(screws accessible from the bottom side) and investigate.
If the actuator is broken it's quite a job, but there are some good write ups on the internet.
Sandy, on my '88 the same kinda thing happened, but I noticed some play in the steering wheel. So if I lifted up on the bottom of the wheel the starter would hit. So I took the steering wheel off and took the hub apart and found some screws loose. Trick was getting to them as they were screwed in towards me sitting behind the wheel. Took a small metric angle allen and dropping the column from the dash to tighten them up but that solved the problem.
Sandy, on my '88 the same kinda thing happened, but I noticed some play in the steering wheel. So if I lifted up on the bottom of the wheel the starter would hit. So I took the steering wheel off and took the hub apart and found some screws loose. Trick was getting to them as they were screwed in towards me sitting behind the wheel. Took a small metric angle allen and dropping the column from the dash to tighten them up but that solved the problem.
That is the first time I've heard of that happening. Glad it didn't to me. I have a broken ignition switch actuator. Should be able to get it tomorrow or Monday. Thanks for letting me know your experience. Sandy
my truck is three foot to the rocker panels, and i am close to 300 lbs, so mine tend to get extreme wear. on the same token, my buddy has a 89 150 2 wheel drive. the rockers on his are only around 13 inches and he only weighs 165 lbs. his column screws are still as tight as they were when the truck was new. 'but i have replaced his actuator twice and the ignition switch once... so far.
i am on the third actuator and second column in my 88.
my truck is three foot to the rocker panels, and i am close to 300 lbs, so mine tend to get extreme wear. on the same token, my buddy has a 89 150 2 wheel drive. the rockers on his are only around 13 inches and he only weighs 165 lbs. his column screws are still as tight as they were when the truck was new. 'but i have replaced his actuator twice and the ignition switch once... so far.
i am on the third actuator and second column in my 88.
I just can't understand why they would make the actuator out of pot metal. I picked up my new one today and was trying to get the roll pin through the actuator to hold the rod. The holes in the actuator were to small for the roll pin and I ended up breaking an ear off. I drilled out the remaining ear so the roll pin would fit and then used safety wire to hold the rod in and another link of wire through the roll pin to secure it. I actually think it is now stronger than a new piece. Time will tell because I am not buying another one unless I have to. Of course my large spring came out so we'll see how that goes. Your buddy should be thankful you are helping him because to me it is a royal pain with all these small parts. Sandy
I had a chance to get back to putting my actuator and parts back today. My question is the piece pictured put on the actuator pin before the cover goes on or do you install it first in the cover and try to get the piece over the actuator pin? In either method should the side pins that you pull out be put back in before you try either method. Thanks Sandy
sorry, it has been about 15 years since i did one, and do not remember. i will say though that you have to have the end cogs of the gears aligned on both pieces otherwise the key cylinder and ignition switch will not work through it's complete range.
You put that geared piece on the pin first, then fit the tilt collar over it, as I recall. I have not done one in a great while, either, so memory not real strong on how it all fits together.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
I have a broken ignition switch actuator. Should be able to get it tomorrow or Monday. Thanks for letting me know your experience. Sandy
