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So I just bought this 1994 F250 460 4x4 with a E4OD and 125K ? It seems to not work really right going 60mph. So I'm thinking I gotta change the fluid and filter. I watched a you tube video says to change the torque conv fluid also but it doesn't say how much it'll take. The shop manual says 17 qts, but does that include the TC ?
Pls help guys !
well, RLA, at lower speeds it seems to be OK, but going down the road 55/60 or so, no real load but the camper (total weight 9000 incl truck) it occasionally seems like it wants to shift but goes into neutral for a little then back into gear and not slipping. I checked fluid level, looked OK, but wasn't hot and engine not running, so I gotta re-do that.
KOEO and CM show no codes but I haven't done KOER yet.
Last edited by josiewales; Jul 10, 2019 at 09:48 AM.
Reason: I forgot to add
it occasionally seems like it wants to shift but goes into neutral for a little then back into gear and not slipping.
Classic symptom of a failing MLPS IMHO. False neutraling is a common symptom of a bad/failing Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS). Some parts catalogs refer to it as a Neutral Safety Switch or TR sensor.
Originally Posted by josiewales
KOEO and CM show no codes but I haven't done KOER yet.
Assume that means you got System Pass Code 111 for KOEO and CM?
Classic symptom of a failing MLPS IMHO. False neutraling is a common symptom of a bad/failing Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS). Some parts catalogs refer to it as a Neutral Safety Switch or TR sensor.
Assume that means you got System Pass Code 111 for KOEO and CM?
Actually got 111 and 10.
Is replacing the MLPS something I can do in the driveway (only place I have to work on the truck) ?
So reading the service manual about the MLPS, I see there's a lot of diagnostics, and they talk about cleaning and adjusting. Where do I go with this ?
Thanks for the help, I'm really just learning new ways to work on these things.
[QUOTE=josiewales;18746986]Actually got 111 and 10./QUOTE]
111 is System Pass for the KOEO tests. 10 is the coder reader's interpretation of separator flash between the KOEO tests and Stored Code display. Did you get 111 for CM display as well?
Originally Posted by josiewales
Is replacing the MLPS something I can do in the driveway (only place I have to work on the truck) ?
So reading the service manual about the MLPS, I see there's a lot of diagnostics, and they talk about cleaning and adjusting. Where do I go with this ?
If the MLPS is out of adjustment you will typically get a code for that. You cannot physically clean the internal contacts of the MLPS, but you could try cleaning the external pins and connector.
Is there a right and wrong way to reinstall one? Ever since I replaced the shaft seal behind mine, my truck doesn't want to start in part (but only sometimes). I have been ignoring the problem as it always starts if I put it iin nuetral.
Align the tabs as indicated above. If that is good then check the two Torx screws from the shifter near the bottom of the steering column under the dash. These are known to come loose which is a common cause of your stated issue.
OK, I finally got around to doing the rest of the diagnostic.
Checked the trans fluid, hot and motor running, it's on the hash marks, so looks good.
Checked codes, get 111, 512, 10, 311, 332.
According to my books that's "Keep alive memory failure" (don't know what that means), "Thermactor air/system fault" (don't know if this is critical), and "insufficient EGR flow".
But nothing associated with E4OD ? So I will check the MLPS.
The 512 typically means you need a new PCM. I think a open wire to the power supply can cause it but I would almost bet if you remove you PCM and open it up, you'll see that 1 or more capacitors have leaked out. I do not know if it would prevent it from storing any transmission codes.
I will always get Thermactor air/system fault because my system is removed. Make sure yours is connected and intact if present. For EGR flow check the vacuum line. If good its either the valve or the sensor. Either way, a junkyard is likely cheaper than troubleshooting or trying to delete it without codes. I have a second spare just because it appeared to be brand new on a truck I was pullling from.
Align the tabs as indicated above. If that is good then check the two Torx screws from the shifter near the bottom of the steering column under the dash. These are known to come loose which is a common cause of your stated issue.
I think I had seen somewhere in a video, that adjsuting the two mounting bolts was a thing but I didn't think the youtuber was the most informed character on this series of truck. Will check torx screws soon, need to the replace pull cable for shift indicator. Thanks, back to the OP.
Code 512 can be triggered by removing then reinstalling a battery cable. Some folks do this to "clear" the codes. Many times this falsely triggers Code 512. It is not a sure sign of a bad computer.
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