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I have a 1963 F100 That came from North New Mexico Indian Reservation. I got it cheap because the PO said the motor was shot and smoked. When I got to looking I found that the add on oil gauge plastic feed line had a very small hole that was spraying on the exhaust manifold and smoking. After removing the line the engine runs OK but will need some tuning and probably a carb and fuel pump. But on to the question The PO had started to remove the paint on the drivers side fender and door and parts of the hood and the roof and bed have some areas that have rusted on the surface over the years. I don't have much experience in dealing with this kind of problem and was looking for some suggestions about the proper was to repair this issue. Do I sand to good metal and the treat the fenders ect? How about treating with rust treatment, phosphoric acid or other, first and then sanding or painting. I have included some pictures of the side I am talking about.
Some primer was applied to the hood but as you can see the rust came back
You're lucky its in the desert, doesn't look like it got pitted anywhere. That just looks like surface rust and will sand right off to metal again, an orbital sander with 120 or lighter paper, fold a sheet and get the cracks and creases by hand, it'll prime and paint beautifully. I wouldn't use anything. That will look real nice when you're done, you got a nice deal there!
and as for the surface rust, if it's not all coming off (ie: metal is pitted), the link below is a great resource showing methods to get it all clean, pitted or not.
You're lucky its in the desert, doesn't look like it got pitted anywhere. That just looks like surface rust and will sand right off to metal again, an orbital sander with 120 or lighter paper, fold a sheet and get the cracks and creases by hand, it'll prime and paint beautifully. I wouldn't use anything. That will look real nice when you're done, you got a nice deal there!
Your so right about the desert. There are some issues but rust is not one of them this is the first time I have run into this problem. I will get some 120 or 160 grit sandpaper and start to remove down to bear metal. Should I use some of the rust converting primer on it after I sand it down?
and as for the surface rust, if it's not all coming off (ie: metal is pitted), the link below is a great resource showing methods to get it all clean, pitted or not.
You are so right, I didn't check out the year very well as the PO said it was a 63 but after checking the VIN it is a 64 and the title does show 64. I will have to join that forums to get the information but I will do that since I am learning all this about body work and painting. Thanks for the link.
I'll second the dustless blasting. I use a portable unit that I put 5 gallons of water and a cup of holdtight 102 then dump in a bag of glass bead. Needs a good solid 60 CFM but it does a great job and the holdtight prevents any surface rust from coming back before you get a chance to prime it. If stored indoors I've had pieces go for a long time in bare metal with no rust reforming.
The hoses are insane to run it.
Deadman valve with smaller and larger nozzles.
It's very fast. A whole fender takes about 3 minutes max.
Here's a guy stripping an Impala that is swiss cheese by the time it is done.
Yes, it does look as though media blasting is the way to do it but having just retired and with more time than money I think I will try to sand and prepare the surface the old,way. After spending 4 hours I have prepared just the lower half of the drivers door. I have included some progress pictures of the surface and was wondering if this is clean enough to stop the rust after treating with Navel Jelly?
Does this appear to be down to metal where the rush will not return if painted with rust preventative primer?
Just sanding alone it would typically force some rust particles into the surface as opposed to blasting them off the surface. But, as long as you treat it with Naval Jelly and then neutralize that before applying a good two part epoxy primer as a base you will probably be OK. Having said that - good quality primers and paints are very expensive so if it fails you will be out some money and time.
I think you are doing a great job. I agree that if you treat it you will probably have no problem. Make sure to get the nooks and crannies that might have any powdery or crunchy buildup. It doesn't appear you have much humidity so a good primer will seal it in, if its clean it will bond well. Check youtube for videos on rust and paint prep.
Considering the amount of time it takes, and the cost of materials, it is much easier, and less expensive to do it once to a high standard than to have to do it all over again in several years.......
I spent ten years in the trade, and if a lad apprenticing under me started masking that up to epoxy it, the first words he would hear from me are "What the %@#& are YOU doing !!??"
**And before you start applying epoxy, do a bit of digging on S.P.I. (Southern Polyeurethanes Inc?)
There are plenty of guys on metalmeet, etc that are scratch building panels, etc that are deliriously happy with this stuff, and they ship all over the place, and there are some independent regional re-sellers as well..........
AND, they have a forum where you can ask questions, etc
Well you guys are right about doing it "right". That means a lot of things to a lot of people, the real question is what you are shooting for. An epoxy job will look show if you do it right. Is the rest of the truck in that condition and is that what you want to get into? Just asking because a paint job can become a huge deal and huge bucks, or not, its what you picture when you're done.
