Not too sure this is the correct place to ask a question. I was reading a long thread on another site, which led me to this one, and got some info and some confusion. I have an 84 F350 with a good frame, engine, transmission, bed and running gear. The cab is a disgrace. I'm using it as just a flatbed with a goose neck ball in the middle of the bed. It's a dully. I'm trying to find out what cabs will fit without a lot of trouble. I saw on the other site that 82 thru 88 would fit, but then someone said that early 90's would fit. The older ones are hard to come by and aren't in the best condition so I'm hoping a newer model will have a better cab. The seat in the one I have is all that's salvageable . Dash is gone, windows leak, floor is rusted. Fenders and Hood could be used if needed. Any help would be most appreciated.

 

Going to move this to the Older, Classic & Antique Truck sub forum for better visibility.

 

1980 to 1992ish are the same cabs. I forget when the '92 body style ended but the cabs remained the same. You can quite literally pick up a '92 body style and bolt on the front clip of a '82 and everything will fit and line up.

Chassis were the same 1980 - 1996, Y pipe I looked up for my '82 is the same part number 80 - 86 and Jegs list a Off-road Y pipe fitting '86 - 96 which confirms my suspicion that 80 - 96 chassis were effectively the same dimensions and layout.

 

It's the small stuff that will get you. The dash gauges changed in 1987. So for instance, if you got a 87-up cab, to make it go smoothly you should get the whole wiring harness from the later truck. Weed out the fuel injection harness that you probably do not need. Use the 87-up fuel tank on your frame, with it's later sending unit. If it had fuel injection you might have to take the sending unit out and bypass the electric pump inside. And then you will have to change out the oil pressure sending unit, and the temperature sending unit also.

You are effectively making it a 87-up truck which brings up another point. To avoid a bunch of hassle, make sure whatever cab or whatever truck you get, you get a title with it. Make sure it matches the number on the bottom of the windshield. When you are done swapping, you take your old title and tell them you scrapped the truck, and you take your new title which matches the new cab and put it on the road. Very simple. There are other methods but they can get very complex with a lot of paperwork and a lot of hassle.

I would avoid 93-up cabs, they went to a electronic speedometer. Unless you can bolt in the older dash into the newer cab. The cabs were mostly the same from 1980-thru 1996, thru 1998 for the f250/350 trucks. The f150 changed in 1997. The bigger trucks changed in 1999.

 

These replies really help me a lot. I've had several tell me only a couple of years would work. I want as new as a cab as I can get for several reasons, one which is they older ones aren't really much better shape than mine and two, they are hard to find. I'm going to try to go with a 90-92 and see what I can find. We had a huge junk yard not far from here but they closed suddenly and they had an attitude. Not sure what to expect to pay and may have to buy the whole truck just to get the cab. I have a number of a place in AL that would be to bad of a drive for me as I live in SW GA. I've been told to take the doors off and anything else to lighten the load when removing the new cab if it already isn't off. My fenders and hood could be reused as can the seat. The windshield could be used but the weather stripping on the windshield and back glass would have to be redone. Possibly paint it before I put it on, or would I be better off waiting in case I scratch it?

 

One more quick question, are the F150-F250-F350 cabs the same? Since I have a F350 will I have to find another F350?

 

Yes, the cabs are the same.

 

Cabs are the same, the GVWR number on the door jamb sticker will be way off if you use a f150 cab.

Be careful about re-using your fenders and hood. If your truck is that rusty I bet your radiator support is not in good shape, and the support needs to be the year of the frontend sheetmetal, and also for the proper engine/radiator combination. So in other words, I do not think you are going to be able to bolt the early fenders onto a 90-92 radiator support. And the diesel supports are oddball also. And the style of headlights is also a determining factor in what style radiator support you use.

In certain cases, depending on what type of donor you end up with, you might be better off with the whole newer truck with say a bad engine or transmission. If it has a better cab, then it probably has a better frame also. Write in with what you find, there are all sorts of combinations that will work and others that will be a hassle.

 

the hood and fenders don't really seem that bad. The cab is a disaster not fit for raising chickens. Came from a school district. That should answer a lot of questions.

 

Look at the bottom of the radiator at the support that has the two large rubber support donuts. Is that ok and not rusted out? There is a channel all along the bottom of the radiator and it forms a big U around the radiator.

 

dufosdo, what area do you live in? I see this all the time with people who live in rainy or coastal areas. i always recommend that they look to a dry climate to find a truck, or in your case a cancer free body. I live in a semi arid area, and we have antique vehicles that are not rusted out yet. Shipping vehicles is fairly cheap nowadays, you could find a Bullnose and have it delivered to you. Not sure what it's worth to you, but in a lot of these places where things rust to the ground, finding another truck in good shape is usually more money than to buy one sitting in the desert and have it shipped. Awaiting your response...... Cause I can dig up a bunch of rigs right here in my area in just 2 minutes. Click the link and search under cars and trucks for Ford. Actually I just searched and the deals aren't so hot right now, but they do pop up often. If you want, I could ask a local wrecking yard what they would charge for a cab, front clip, and as much interior as possible. Maybe they could ship it? I've never really asked them.

https://kpr.craigslist.org/

 

If the radiator supports are rotted out on the frame like a customers truck I messed with, you can purchase new frame mounts cut the rivets out and bolt new ones on.

If you do this just make sure the bolts you use have a shank that fits nicely in the hole you don't want no movement.

 

I live in SW GA, Albany. I have a trailer so if the distance isn't too far I could come and get it. Haven't checked the radiator mounts yet. Will do that this morning. I only want to keep this truck because of the goose neck hitch but if the cab issue becomes too expensive , I may have to rethink doing anything. I had cancer 10 years ago with 2 re-ocurances and haven't worked since so I just have SS for income. Meaning I have to watch my money, but I supposed a lot of people have to do that,

I have a Cushman Super Silver Eagle that a man in FLA want to trade a 95 Mustang with a removable hard top for. Only saw the pictures, and everybody knows that pictures hid a lot. Don't know if this is a smart trade or not. Not sure what the Tang is worth? Cushman is worth about$5500-$6000, have it listed on FB for $5850. Have sent him a question about the milage. If it's doable, it would have to be an even swap. Can't put money in it and still try to fix the F350.
Might be bette off to just try to sell the F350 and look for another truck as I don't drive it 500 a year. Tires are pretty good, new clutch, Pressure plate, throw out bearing. When I got it there was a bad 3rd gear so I got another transmission but I forgot to make sure they got one with a "granny" gear. Going to check the mounts on the radiator and will post the results.

 

Completely agree with this as long as ones current truck is free of sentiment. Had my supercab shipped from WA state to MO. You can end up with a rust free truck shipped for the same price as a local rust bucket.

 

I've learned to detach my sentiment. I had a 1983 Dodge Power Ram which started with me as a D150 in my early 20's. Then I found a donor truck and swapped my body to it making it a W350, did a bunch more work, ended up selling it because all I did was work on it, and it still needed a lot. It's just a piece of metal in the end. Do I still wish I had it, yes, but there are still plenty of good pieces of metal out there. If my 86 F-150 ever gets wrecked or something, I will take the 300 I6 and trans, and transfer case and throw it in a Dodge truck. It's all just preference.