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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Radio help!

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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 03:27 PM
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Radio help!

Hey y’all! I was wondering if any of you out there might have a schematic for an 84 f150? I need the wiring diagram for a radio that’s just a radio..it never had a tape deck. All the info I can find are for the radios that have tape decks. And they all say look for a green wire, which I do not have.

thank you!
 
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 03:49 PM
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These are the colors I have: one harness has a yellow w black hashes, and a blue w red tracer, there’s also an orange wire w blue dots coming out of the back of the radio, but when it goes into the connector there is nothing there.

second harness: white/beige with green hash, orange w green hash, black, pink w green tracer, and pink w blue tracer. (I assume that’s the speaker side?)
 
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 04:58 PM
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Your diagram is below.

yellow/black hash is the key on power

Blue/red is the dial illumination

Don't see the orange/blue hash

white/lightgreen hash is the right front speaker +

orange/green hash is the left front speaker +

the black should have white hash marks, that is the speaker common

pink/lightgreen is the right rear speaker +

pink/lightblue is the left rear speaker +

 
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Your diagram is below.

yellow/black hash is the key on power

Blue/red is the dial illumination

Don't see the orange/blue hash

white/lightgreen hash is the right front speaker +

orange/green hash is the left front speaker +

the black should have white hash marks, that is the speaker common

pink/lightgreen is the right rear speaker +

pink/lightblue is the left rear speaker +


So is the yellow hash the 12v constant, or the 12v run? I hooked up a multimeter and the yellow hash wire gets 12v when the key is turned to run it seems..but nothing when it’s at the accessory position...is that normal?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 07:23 PM
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The orange/blue-hash is the signal wire for a power antenna and wasn't used in the trucks.

The yellow hashed wire should have power in RUN & ACCY.

 
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
The orange/blue-hash is the signal wire for a power antenna and wasn't used in the trucks.

The yellow hashed wire should have power in RUN & ACCY.


Hm..definitely don’t. My multimeter only shows a 12v source when I click the key to right before starting. I got the radio working as well and it doesn’t turn on in ACCY either. Do you have a recommendation on another wire I can easily tap into for 12v ACCY?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 09:23 PM
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That yellow/black-hashed wire is a fused, switched source dedicated for the radio. If it doesn't get power in ACCY then I really doubt any others would, either. Look in that EVTM on Gary's site and figure out which circuits are suppsoed to have power in RUN and ACCY, it's about half the fuse box IIRC.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 04:49 PM
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Wiggle the keyswitch around in the ACC position area and see if it tries to work. Like Chris alluded to, you might have a problem you do not know about.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2019 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Wiggle the keyswitch around in the ACC position area and see if it tries to work. Like Chris alluded to, you might have a problem you do not know about.
Hmm..I’ll give that a try. It’s defintely intermittent, even w the old radio. Lemme ask you this..if the aftermarket radio is tapped in a 12v constant I KNOW works..and then and intermittently 12v keyed..shouldn’t the radio turn on at least when it’s running?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2019 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mumblemouth
Hmm..I’ll give that a try. It’s defintely intermittent, even w the old radio. Lemme ask you this..if the aftermarket radio is tapped in a 12v constant I KNOW works..and then and intermittently 12v keyed..shouldn’t the radio turn on at least when it’s running?
Not necessarily. There are at least 4 sections to the keyswitch, and these trucks are famous for the mechanical part of the keyswitch getting sticky (especially in cold weather) and the electrical part down lower on the column wearing out. It's very common to start the truck, and find out your wipers don't work, or your gauges may not work. Then later on they start working. Before I fixed my old 1980, I would start the truck, and then lightly wiggle the key in the run position, this usually got the accessories working. I finally replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch, and flooded the upper part where the key goes in with wd40, and I never had the problem any more.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2019 | 10:32 AM
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All these diagrams I am bringing in are for a 1981, so there may be minor differences. Here's the ignition switch and you can see it does have 4 separate sections to it.

 
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Old Jul 3, 2019 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
All these diagrams I am bringing in are for a 1981, so there may be minor differences. Here's the ignition switch and you can see it does have 4 separate sections to it.

So the radio generally works intermittently. So assuming it’s the ACC wire with possible short, can I run a brand new wire from the radio directly to the fuse box?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2019 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mumblemouth
So the radio generally works intermittently. So assuming it’s the ACC wire with possible short, can I run a brand new wire from the radio directly to the fuse box?
Yes you could. But i would wait, if it's intermittent and other components like the wipers or the gauges are affected, more than likely it's your ignition switch.
 
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