Hello everyone, this is my first post on the site. I'm having some serious ignition/starting problems and have searched the forums exhaustively, but can't quite find an answer to my particular problem.
So, first, the specifics of my truck: '97 F350 4x4 standard cab, 460, 5-speed, 122k miles, stock with exception of stainless long tube headers and a PowerMaster mini-starter installed by the PO. I purchased the truck about two months ago, and I've put about 600 miles on it without a hitch until this issue.
The problem: Several weeks ago my ignition control module failed. When I say failed, one day when I keyed the ignition, the truck made a series of clicking noises which I interpreted to be a bad solenoid. So, I replaced the solenoid with an Advance Auto Parts unit. What happened next was the beginning of more problems. After the new solenoid was installed, when I tried to start to truck, I got a big puff of white smoke from the ignition control module. So, I replaced it with one from Advance Auto. I've since read that these units are garbage for the most part and that I should have replaced it with a Motorcraft part. In any case, once the new control module was installed, it started right up and ran fine. For about two weeks. Then one morning I got the same series of clicks, followed by a wisp of white smoke curling out from under the hood. So at that point I ordered a Motorcraft control module. This one failed immediately in the same way. When I keyed the ignition switch to the "on" position, I got all the normal pre-start functions, but when I turned the key to the "start" position I got ONE click in the engine compartment and then a puff of white smoke from the driver's side inside fender. When I jumped out, smoke was still curling up from the new ignition control module. At that point I thought maybe something else had gone bad, so I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, coil, and solenoid - all with Motorcraft parts - and installed them making sure all the connections were clean and solid. I got the new Motorcraft ignition module on Friday, and installed it today. When I tried to start the truck, the exact same thing happened: one click, one puff of white smoke and the module was fried. So that's three in a row, with the last one after installation of several new Motorcraft components.
Anyone ever heard of anything like this? Like I said, I've searched the forums and haven't really found anything quite like this problem with regard to the control module. Any help would be massively appreciated, especially since auto electronics is not my sharpest skill. Thanks!!

Matt

 

Welcome to FTE

Cheap replacement parts don't help but one thing I always want to look at when strange electrical faults appear is vehicle ground and connections. Loose, missing, and corroded ground cables and connections cause major problems. And you can't tell by looking, even an invisible paper thin layer of corrosion between connections is enough to cause voltage drop, this causes excessive current (heat) in switches and other components. Disconnect the battery, and test it or have it tested, charge it up overnight. Then in the meantime crack open every cable that terminates to block, or frame, or firewall, body, etc. A wire brush and WD40, small grinding wheel, etc. Make sure the main ground points for any component are bright shiny bare metal and tighten securely. The cables are now 20+ years old and probably should be replaced. A tractor supply store can make up new ones for not too much money. Avoid the generic drugstore replacement cables in the blister pacs.

 

I would do as Tedster9 posted but go a little bit more.
Because you are letting the smoke out it sounds like a dead short.
I would check all wiring going to / from the box for cracks, broken and shorts to ground that should not.
Don't over look the wires going into the dist. thru the body as the grommet could be bad or even the wires inside the dist.
Dave ----

 

Also, when in the start position, measure for power on all the (disconnected) ICM connector pins.

 

I would unplug the engine connector C101 and see what happens.
Also check the value of fuse #22 in the engine compartment fuse/relay box. It should be a 20.