Should Carb needle be hooked to float?
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Should Carb needle be hooked to float?
Hey
maybe a dumb question, on my 79 f150, 2150 2bbl cArb, 4x4. 351m, so I was putting some leaner jets in and when I took float out I noticed there is no little hook thing that the needle usually hooks on to your float. Seems like Any carb I have messed with the needle always has that little clip the hooks on to float So seems odd this does not. CArb is stock still has that black float in it. Or is this just how it is.
Thanks
maybe a dumb question, on my 79 f150, 2150 2bbl cArb, 4x4. 351m, so I was putting some leaner jets in and when I took float out I noticed there is no little hook thing that the needle usually hooks on to your float. Seems like Any carb I have messed with the needle always has that little clip the hooks on to float So seems odd this does not. CArb is stock still has that black float in it. Or is this just how it is.
Thanks
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Well on these cArbs, the float does attach to seat. THere is a clip that’s attached to the pin going through the float and you push that under lip on seat. So it does attach the float to the needle and seat. It’s just that there isn’t a clip on the needle itself that loops on to the little metal bracket of the float.
Thanks
Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
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The connection to the float is somewhat silly. the only time it really matters is if the needle sticks, in which case there wouldn't be enough gas in the float bowl to raise the needle anyway. so it's like standing on a board and trying to pick it up.
I've never worked on a carb that wasn't supposed to have it, but I've torn apart many that didn't and they were working . but I always put them on anyway.
I've never worked on a carb that wasn't supposed to have it, but I've torn apart many that didn't and they were working . but I always put them on anyway.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
It is easier not to install that little clip if you're a coffee drinker and it does no harm if it isn't there (for the most part, as mentioned above), don't stress too much.
I'd get rid of the black plastic float though, and replace it with brass. That's the recommendation of most of the carb guys anyway. 'Course, they just happen to sell brass replacement floats. Hm. But I prefer the brass floats just because.
I'd get rid of the black plastic float though, and replace it with brass. That's the recommendation of most of the carb guys anyway. 'Course, they just happen to sell brass replacement floats. Hm. But I prefer the brass floats just because.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: S.E. Louisiana;so far USA
The exploded view of that carburetor in the Ford Truck Parts Master Catalog shows "something" between the needle and the float. It is (was) sold by Ford as part of the "valve kit (fuel inlet)". As I'm unfamiliar with that carburetor, I can't provide a positive ID. D8AZ 9564-A (CV-99-A).
Perhaps you could buy an aftermarket kit for it, and see what is provided.
I also prefer the brass floats when that option is available.
Perhaps you could buy an aftermarket kit for it, and see what is provided.
I also prefer the brass floats when that option is available.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
D8AZ 9564-A (CV-99-A)
That kit contains another critter often "missing" when a carb is opened up, basically it is a kind of splash shield that goes above the inlet needle. The idea I think is to divert fuel spray downward into the bowl. Not every carb had those.
Truck carburetors also had a float spring designed to keep it from bouncing over rough terrain and fuel level in the bowl consistent. Rebuild kits don't have those either. This is why the shop manuals and primary source documents are handy, can at least figure out what a carb is supposed to have and make a decision on how to set it up. First rule of intelligent tinkering is "save all the parts"!
That kit contains another critter often "missing" when a carb is opened up, basically it is a kind of splash shield that goes above the inlet needle. The idea I think is to divert fuel spray downward into the bowl. Not every carb had those.
Truck carburetors also had a float spring designed to keep it from bouncing over rough terrain and fuel level in the bowl consistent. Rebuild kits don't have those either. This is why the shop manuals and primary source documents are handy, can at least figure out what a carb is supposed to have and make a decision on how to set it up. First rule of intelligent tinkering is "save all the parts"!
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