That's a very handy chart! Even adding AC and an aftermarket radio, my max current draw with high beams on is only 37 amps. If I switch to Transistorized ignition it will only bump up to 40.5. The stock 55 amp alternator is more than sufficient to meet my needs.

 

All great info. Thanks

 

I realize this is an old thread, but I've recently acquired a portion of the March '66 edition of the truck MPC, so I thought I would update the information here. All part numbers are for replacement type dry batteries with electrolyte included. Replacement batteries for all truck models in '64 were identified as "Autolite".

The base battery for 2WD both 6 & 8 was a 40 amp/hour group 18M1, p/n C3DZ 10654-A, r/b C3DZ 10654-E. It was 5 1/2" wide x 9 3/8" long x 8" tall.

The next option up was a 55 amp/hour group 4NFA; p/n C3AZ 10654-A. It measured 5 1/2" x 12 1/2" x 8".

The next option up were 3 different 70 amp/hour batteries. The first was a group 3MFA, p/n C3AZ 10654-E with 66 plates. It measured 6 3/4" x 12" x 8". The next was a group 17H3, p/n C3AZ 10654-G, measuring 6 3/4" x 12" x 8 1/4" also with 66 plates. Last was a group 5NA with 78 plates measuring 5 1/2" x 14 1/4" x 8", p/n C3TZ 10654-B.

Batteries for "other than Ford" could be identified as either Autolite or "Econo Power". The foot notes mentions batteries identified by "Ford Thunder Power" but I did not find that note next to any battery. I have read that they had yellow script prior to '68, but I have not seen any documentation and not sure how far back that would have gone.

 

Thanks for the schooling, TA!

Thanks for the p/n and measurements, 66v8baby!

Batteries are just one of the maintenance items for our Slicks that have come a long way since '66. Tires are another......

BarnieTrk

 

I'm a bit more computer challenged than Chad, so it took a while to get a picture of the page, crop and rotate it, but here's a picture of the page I got the information from:

 

Here is the size of battery that is in it now. The hold down was an NOS one that I found that was identical to the original hold down. The hold down bolts are the original ones, so for sure this was the size of the battery it came with

 

These guys can hook you up:

https://www.antiqueautobattery.com

Or, you can dress up a plain-Jane battery cheaply with just a sticker:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Power-...EAAOSwAUJdKEPm

 

Great looking setup Skidoorulz. Nice size and quality of cables too.
One thing I do with that type of cable that I feel helps them last longer, and kind of looks nicer as well I feel, is to use a short strip of shrink-tubing at the end away from the battery.
So like the positive side where you can see it at the starter relay, it seals out moisture a little better (especially when after age and heat the red jacket might shrink away from the crimp, leaving a gap) and gives it a bit of a higher end look.

And since you have that extra pigtail on the negative side (same type I always recommend) are you going to add a body ground from the battery? I don't know if Ford did it originally on your year, but at least in the '67 and newer trucks there was a direct-to-body connection with the original ground cable.
The main cable end was to the engine block like normal, but mid-way down there was a clamp around some exposed conductor and bolted to the body. If yours had it originally and you didn't do the same thing with the new cable, using that additional 10ga wire is the perfect way to keep that important ground intact.

Sorry if you knew all that already, but whenever I see an unused ground pigtail I like to bring up the subject.

Paul

 

Paul, a heavy braided strap from the fire wall to engine block is a good idea. Me, since I installed an auxiliary panel on the inner fender near the battery, I run separate dedicated ground wires to any added accessories. They do that for a reason in motorcycles, and I do not need to chase down bad grounds. The electrical system, I am not afraid to alter from stock where it makes sense.

 

Keeps those headlights bright.

 

Now THAT's what I call a body ground Christmas!
You could do that same trick at the body end with the shrink tubing that you did at the battery end. Seals that little gap away from moisture really well.
Doesn't look like much, and yours is still really tight, but that area in the engine compartment is probably pretty susceptible to moisture so any extra bit you can do for the wires is a good thing.

You guys have some good looking setups.

Paul

 

For sure! Stock was decent at the time, but when we know better (or even just more convenient!) we should use that knowledge.
Good call on the braided strap from the firewall. Ford did that on later trucks at least, but I'm not sure just when that started. For some reason they felt that the Broncos did not need them (yeah, right!) and never included that little item on the '66 to '77 Broncos.
Heck, my '79 has braided straps not only between the engine and firewall, but two or three of them bypassing the rubber insulators between the frame and cab mounts!

Wish I'd had those on all my old trucks.

Paul

 

And yes, I did finally notice that the picture skidoorulz posted was from 16 years ago! Oops....

Paul

 

Funny I have never noticed the date on that picture. It actually is from 2014 or 15 I did not start the restoration until 2011. The way this is set up the main ground goes right to the body where the battery box bolts to the fire wall. There is a braided strap from the cab to the frame and from the cab to the block. This was the way it was done in 64 from the factory.

 

The 63 I had a 29NF in it for years. Got hard to find so started using Group 24 or 27.