So I went to do a clean up of my engine compartment and changed a few things thought there was a vacuum leak but was not able to track any down. It runs fine just on idle it wants to stall, and when I slam on the brakes it wants to stall. I am gonna pull the intake manifold as well and change the gaskets and use gasket maker for the front and rear.
I was re-routing some of the wiring I noticed the P.O. installed E3 plugs, has anyone ever ran them in an FE block. I have always used Autolite's and never had a problem. Just wondering of this could cause an issue, If it ever stops raining when I'm not at work..... I am gonna pull them out and see what they look like. I might just swap them anyway.
While I'm on the subject, with an MSD should the gap on the plugs differ than stock?

Thanks
Nick

 

I'm assuming that you have power brakes. If it wants to die when you hit the brakes = possible booster vacuum leak.
Of course I'm an old fart and most likely have no idea what I'm talking about.

 

The booster seems to hold pressure, that is why I am leaning towards the intake.

 

I would disconnect the booster and plug the line and test what happens before tearing the motor apart

 

I believe that the stock gap is.035, and if you’re running a hotter spark can be increased to.045. That’s what I did with Autolites, a Pertronix and a Flamethrower coil. Not sure about the E3’s.

 

Yeah that is what I thought, I will have to pull them and see what I'm working with. Most likely I will put Autolite's in.

As far as the intake the P.O. used gasket maker and I from what I see it looks like anything but a gasket, so I am gonna re-seal it anyway. Plus I want to paint it.

 

I would test the booster first. Once you open the engine up you could possibly cause a 2nd problem. One at a time is my motto.

 

Sounds like a carb tuning problem to me, possibly not idled high enough or rich enough. Could also be timing retarded too much.. If it was a vacuum leak, just the way it would be noticeable while idling. If it idles like it has one, spray carb cleaner all around the intake while idling with the valve covers off, if there's one, you'll hear the engine change pitch when the carb cleaner hits it.

 

I think before you go popping the top on that motor, check other things first. There are a # of YouTubes that explain the right way to check for a booster leak. Depending where a booster might be leaking, the motor could still idle ok or rough and then die when the brake is pushed. I'm not saying it IS a booster problem - just something that should be checked 'correctly', and if checked out a good, it canbe removed from the equation.
Pretty sure there is enough knowledge between all these guys to help you figure out your problem but think you need to supply a little more info.
Good luck.....!

 

I don't suspect a booster issue per what has been stated already.

Need to verify:
-timing and ignition
-vacuum advance functioning and not leaking
-accelerator pump setting
-if 4 bbl make sure the secondaries aren't shut tight

Replace the e3's with some NGK's. It's too cheap not to just for peace of mind.

 

I ran E3s for a couple of years with no problems. Got tired of other things with the 410. The 410 had a timid cam that the guy I bought it from put in, plus it just wasn't a good build so I started with a 390 block and built a 445. On the advice of some guys who build race engines over on FE Power I went with Autolites, but the E3s ran fine in the 410 for about 4 years.

I agree that pulling the intake isn't you best option, probably your last if you didn't find a leak on it.