Despite everyone's suggestion to part it out and even to the dramatic "it's junk - throw the whole truck away" attitudes (must be people with unlimited sources of $ to just buy new trucks versus repair what they have) I will be moving forward with a frame replacement. I've sourced a nice used frame locally for a few hundred bucks, in the process of cleaning it up and protecting it with POR-15. Will add pics and comments as we progress

 

Good luck with that. I went through a decade+ of throwing money in an old car for the same reason. Then I finally figured out what I spent on trying to keep it running.

 

You literally just got advice from EVERYONE to part it out to SAVE YOU MONEY, and you act as if you can just replace the frame as easy as spending money on a new frame. You are going to spend so much time and effort trying to save something that you could just buy something more reliable with. Do you honestly believe you will not run into more parts needing replaced after taking EVERYTHING off the frame? None of us have unlimited $. We just know what's worth the effort, and what is not. This is not an Elanor stang, it's an F150. Take it to a salvage yard and ask them how much, then buy a new used vehicle, instead of spending a month+ trying to replace a frame. If the frame is that bad, there are TONS of other rusted out parts as well, not to mention rusted bolts making it that much harder, and more money to replace all those other rusted parts. I'll bet your couple hundred dollar frame replacement ends up costing you over 1.5k, especially in the exhaust/fuel system area. If it was simply just in a wreck and easier to replace the frame, then I am sure you'd have support here. But it's far more than that, and you are in over your head. Just from your pics alone, you can see it on the driveshaft, fuel lines/filter, shocks, steering components, and exhaust.

Good luck, I guess. Next time, get a used vehicle inspection.

 

It's really not as bad as everyone makes it sound. He's already sourced a nice used frame. Let's see if we can support the project.


Let's start off with tracking what this project will end up costing. How much have you already spent out of pocket buying the truck, and the used frame? How much time have you already spent working on it? What's your time worth? Is it reasonable to assume that you have journeyman level skill, and should be paid about $40 per hour?

Let's assume that this used frame will work out. Now, he has to strip everything off the truck, down to the rusted frame. Then bolt everything back up to the new frame. Some things will be replaced along the way. The body rust under the paint will have to be addressed. If he runs into problems along the way, let's help him. I would like to see how this works out. How much time will this take? How much more will he spend on parts?

This guy is willing to do what nobody else will consider. Which means that none of us have the guts.

 

The OP sounds confident that he can do this. One must then assume that he has the skills, tools and time to do so. Most of us don’t possess all 3 of those attributes. So it is not fair to tell the guy he is in over his head just because many here (including me) wouldn’t tackle this project.

Let’s see what he can do. The result may surprise us all. And who knows, some of us may learn a thing or two watching as this progresses.

 

It's over my head. Which is why I'm not doing it.

 

Thanks Fifty150 and JKBrad, I appreciate the warm fuzzy 😎
I was trying to figure out how to delete my account after the tongue lashing from 3prcntr.....no harm done though.
My original post wasn't asking what to do as much as what frames would interchange, I've found over the years to cross check info to ensure getting the correct part.....esp when there's a significant change during a production year. I am confident I can pull this off, I've done a frame change before (although decades ago with far less resources) There is no way I would consider paying a shop to do this, I know it wouldn't be worth it. As for numbers; I have 3k in the truck purchase, say $700 in the new frame with the protective coatings I'm putting on (POR-15 and three cans of Eastwood's internal frame coating. I have already ordered replacement shocks/struts for front and back and new front suspension components, as these items are due for replacement typically anyway and it makes sense to do at this time. Btw, I'll probably get a new fuel filter too (lol) anyway, I'm not saying I know everything and that there won't be challenges; but all in I think I be around 6k. A quick search of other trucks vary in price from 5-10k and at least this way I'll know what I've got. Thanks again for your positive perspective

 

You might want to consider painting over the POR15 once it has cured. It is more of a treatment than a proper coating. High temp paint makes for a good chassis coating.

This is also an excellent opportunity to do new shocks, a leveling kit, brakes, fuel pump etc.

 

Okay, I'll apologise. But I don't feel I stand corrected. I'll just be amazed if it's worth it. I don't see those 120k miles being a normal 120k with a frame like that, and the only time this would make sense to me is on a restomod or a new vehicle that was in an accident and insurance covers it. And that is with a team doing the work, with an estimate of 2-3 weeks. One person and all that rust? Good luck! Save the old frame and share the pics once you get it off.

 

Don't forget to track your labor. Fair shop rates apply. And include shop supplies like brake cleaner, penetration lubricant, rubbers, etc. Let's put a real cost on this.

I want to see what you are going to do with rust bubbling through the paint, all the underbody corrosion, and whatever else you come across as the project progresses.

In theory, this build is not the most difficult. You could have sent the new frame to a shop for media blast. Maybe powder coating. Or even spray on Bedliner. But you are doing it guerilla style at home.

 

The rust comes from SALT spray and it does NOT wash off... It does NOT grind off... IF you put PORE 15 on the rust, it will CONVERT it to a black ozide, but some of the SALT will still be imbedded in the floor / frame ( rust) and will slowly come back thru.

There is a product called DESALT that comes in a gallon jug for about $50... ALL Street DEpts use this stuff to NEURALIZE the salt a few times during the winter.. I bought a gallon ( put a cup in a weed sprayer with a gallon of water) and spray all over the frame and bottom of the truck.. Wait a few minutes and wash off with water... The SALT is now NEUTRALIZED and you can put the RUST CONVERTER on and seal things up... Life "SHOULD" be better if all the SALT is gone before doing the CONVERTER.

 

Great info guys, I appreciate it!
I want to be clear though----I am by no means intending to restore this vehicle to perfect condition to resell or save as a collector. I plan to make it my daily driver; I use my trucks for work and not as showpieces so it's going to get used. My goal is quite basic in making it a safe and reliable vehicle for everyday use. Although it would be nice to not have rusting on the body panels; that won't be high on the priority list of repairs. I will do some preventative measures to combat further damage however. I also fully grasp the concept that this is NOT a profitable venture, as the overall investment may (and probably will) exceed it's cash value. Only advantage I'm looking at is getting some use out of it for the money spent. I figure if I can get 5 or 6 years of use out of it I'd be happy. And the time spent with my boy working on a project like this is priceless.
To answer 3prcntr: thanks for the apology, I agree with you regarding whether it's worth the effort or not. I guess that'll be determined as we go. The interior of the truck is like new, tires are 95%, motor and transmission feel/sound excellent. The corrosion is incomprehensible for the relatively low mileage but there have been a lot of reports in the local news over recent years about how today's winter road treatments are literally eating the bottoms of vehicles away...... quite evident in this mess 🙄
Thank you all again for your time and input, I will keep you posted!

 

YEP..... and you cant charge YOURSELF $40. hour for your labor... Your not trying to MAKE MONEY on the deal, just not loose what you already got in it.... I have been working on MY own vehicles for 40 years... Saved a BUNCH of money... if you enjoy doing it instead of watching the BOOB TUBE a couple hours a day, then its not a big deal to keep track of the labor... Sometimes nice to know how many hours your worked, but don't put a money value on your time.... and working with the BOYS is Priceless !

 

Every time I charge myself $19.95 for an oil change, I lose money.

 

That is just what you would have been paid, if you were to punch a time card and do the same work for someone else.

To be fair, and honest, to yourself; you should track how much time you put into the work. Then you can value the labor at whatever the prevailing labor rate is in your area. That's just so that you really know what the job's total value really is.