Hello Forum, I wanted to make anyone aware that doesn't know, this is a potential killer.
I stepped on the brakes to put the truck in park and I heard a pop and the brake pedal felt like it broke and went to the floor. Put it in park, popped the hood and saw brake fluid pouring from underneath the master cylinder. What had happened was the Cruise Control(Relay?) Pressure Switch completely blew out of the metal casing holding it!
Best case for me because I was in my driveway.
Here is a video I made of the problem and the repair. No ads and I am not monitized. Its to give back. Also filed with the NHTSA so its on record.
Happy Fathers Day!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lePv...ature=youtu.be

 

Dang thats so scary thanks in advance

 

I'm going to check mine tonight.

 

Yeah, definitely going to need to remember to check mine now. Otherwise every time I go to home depot with the family I'm going to be stressing over that. Thanks!

 

That brake pressure cruise switch has been a problem for years.First,vehicles catching on fire sitting in the garage,not running,now this. Either burn up in your sleep or die in a crash because of brake failure.It would be so easy for Ford to come up with something different.

 

Wrong generation of both switch and truck. This is a completely different switch design. Your odds of crashing due to a rusted out brake line that bursts would be an immensely more likely problem. I've personally had that happen to me twice (different trucks).

As I told the OP in another thread on another forum, this is the sole report of this switch's failure on this generation of truck I've personally heard of mentioned on any of the Ford forums I frequent.

 

That is a dual system. You brake pedal should have gone down but not completely. You should still have had brakes on one set of axles or other. If you had no brakes at all you have other problems to address also.

 

Right. They are a different design and generation but what I meant to convey is instead of using corrosive brake fluid to activate the switch,you would think they could come up with a simple mechanical device that wouldn't involve the brake fluid circuit.

 

"Corrosive" brake fluid, as you allege, is not and has not been the problem.

 

This is a deadly problem and I also have never heard of it. If I was coming down a hill into a turn, or stop go traffic, the pedal going to the floor will not stop you in time and you are going to CRASH into something or someone. This is an F350 and You WILL NOT STOP IN TIME! Thank goodness I was in my driveway when it happened.

 

So, if you've never heard of this before how is it a problem? You have an issue with a sensor that failed but apparently that sensor is not prone to failing. Anything can happen with a manufactured part. Yours failed but there is no data to show they are prone to failure.

As I said above you should have had backup brakes. I drove from KC to Minnesota to tow a F350 back on a trailer. I was driving my '99 K3500 chevy dually. The rear brake line on the frame failed due to rust and I was on I35 just south of Minneapolis. I managed to stop the truck and trailer on the front brakes.

You still need to find out why your back up brakes weren't working.

Your truck is 17 years old, time to check out the rest of the brake system. When was the last time the brake fluid was changed?

 

Rare failure for the application, but can be brown pants to someone who has not experienced it before. The line failure is a much bigger problem and even being in the brake industry for 30 years I could never get NHTSA or any manufacturer to consider brake lines should be stainless, even if it was a snow plow truck option. NHTSA will yawn at this.

The major problem for me from the automotive brake issue is no one in the general public understands the dual brake circuit system, and without a pressure differential limiting valve that used to be incorporated in the pre-ABS vehicles, single circuit activation is about 2” off the floor. When I did Accident Reconstruction legal work the common statement from the driver was “I lost all the brakes”. They didn’t, they just gave up not going to the floor.

 

Who gives a @#!* what data is there or NOT there. If yours is RUSTED, CHANGE IT!! Period! Its cheap.

I don't care if there is "still brakes or not". If you are doing 40mph with a load and come into a turn and need to stop you are NOT GOING TO STOP in time. If there is a car or an animal or a person in the road YOU ARE GOING TO HIT THEM. CHANGE THE PART if its RUSTED!

As for NHTSA I don't exspect anything but it is now ON RECORD!

 

You came here bitching that a 17 year old part failed, claimed it's a problem and yet no other owners have had this issue. You plainly stated that you had no brakes and I responded that you need to service the rest of the system if you really didn't have any. One half of the system is not designed to stop on a dime and yes, if your brakes partially fail you will have a harder times stopping. That being said reduced braking is still preferable to no braking.

As I posted above I had similar issues at 70 mph pulling a trailer and was able to come to a controlled stop. I didn't continue until a parts house arrived with the parts I needed to get it on the road again. Then I replaced additional lines when I was back home.

NHTSA, I'm glad you complained. They will probably look at it like it was a lack of maintenance. (operator error). My Dually got 3 brake fluid changes in the 18 years I drove it. The line rusted from the outside. I never had any other brake issues including stuck or leaking calipers or rear wheel cylinders. Maybe if you changed your fluid sooner it wouldn't have corroded that part and it wouldn't have failed.

You are giving the impression you think you are a victim when in reality if you don't want a 17 year old part to fail buy a newer vehicle.

Edit to change: It's a 10 year old part not 17

 

I was gonna reply...but then I've already said all I have to say in this thread. Thanks for your input.