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Ck king pins like cking ball joints, jack one side up, use a large pry bar and apply a little off camber pressure on the bottom of the tire look for play in I beam to steering knuckle attachment point. Brake shoes should touch rotor, 3 spins I'd say that is ok as far as spindle bearing torque.
X2 on insp the area the coil springs set in. lower coil spring bucket? And ch that the coil spring retaining clamps are in place.
Nope. If anything they are too tight. Cant afford throwing parts at it, or taking it to a shop right now as I have dropped a few grand into it already, and my wife has put the red light on anymore truck big spending so to speak. Is there any way to check stuff other than looking for play?
Yeah I thought it felt like coil spring slipping around so I checked. Upper part is seated good, and stay is in place. Lower part looks good I guess, but also looks off. I am a novice on any auto mechanics so not sure what I should see, but it's not obviously unseated. I will go take a pic right now
Just changed wheel bearings and seal when this started,
Started pulling hard to right on braking the same time the knocking started.
Maybe coincidence, maybe not. Check again that you installed the bearings etc correctly with the correct torques etc.
Jack one side up, with a firm grip on the tyre outer, gently move the tyre/rim up and down.
If you feel clunking or silent movement, the king pins are shot.
Then move the tyre/rim left to right.
Any play indicates suspect steering parts.
Then test the other side in this manner.
Pulling hard right indicates a possible fault on the left brakes.
Checked left to right yesterday when redoing the brakes. Has very slight movement, but whole system up to the rag joint moves along with wheel. Up down has less movement, but it's so little I cant tell if its hub movement or kingpin. Had hub too tight at first, but tightened back to 18lbs, then back like a 1/4 turn as was told they are better slightly loose, than slightly tight. Mabey I will try taking rotor off again and checking kingpin play so the bearings will be out of the question. Mabey duct tape my phone down there and film some tight turns to see if anything is moving. Totally wish I would have spent all my budget on steering/suspension instead of motor, but all of this was great at the time
But as far as brakes, there's really not many ways they can go on wrong is there?it seemed pretty self explanatory when putting back together. Even though it was the first time I ever touched any brakes in my life
Have you had a passenger ride with you and listen to see it its louder on the dvrs side verses the passenger side? Also get going and put in neutral, let idle and coast along and see if the sound appears when braking then braking and steering.
The 12 and 6 tire grab ck should result in pretty much zero play. The more weight on the spindle and bearings during the ck the better, same for the king pins.
Did you remove the master cylinder lid and syringe some fluid out, that way when you use a c clamp to compress the caliper piston back in the caliper body, the excess fluid has a place to go. Before you put on the new brake pads. Pulling on one side or the other can indicate sticking caliper piston in outward or inward movement.
Sooo. Never even looked at pass side until now, as clunking was at my feet while driving. Checked now with truck sitting on ground, and 12/6 rocking produced play with a sound best described as lightly knocking that metal cover behind wheel with a screwdriver handle. So I guess that wheel is coming off to see if its bearing or kingpin or what else. I swear the sound was coming from drivers side after working on it. I never even touched pass side yet
Well that was a bust. Removed pass wheel, removed rotor. All play was the hub. Checked bearings, and repacked. Torqued hub to spec, and greased all zerks on that side, and all play is gone. I was almost hoping the kingpin was shot so at least I could get it done and focus on the weekend. Haven't driven it yet but I doubt adjusting hub, and lube job on front end is gonna be the cure. Ugghh.
The thin metal round ish plate on the back side, is the disk brake dust shield. They have been known to get bent and rub a rim. And or rust into pieces and break loose and rattle around. Lets talk about just HOW your 2wd truck is lifted. Did you get different I beams? Or just put some longer/taller front coil springs and radius arm drop brackets under there? I would like to see a complete front and pic and a side pic of the suspension set up and steering.
