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Over the years I've done a few differentials, and I always referred back to my 1979 Motor's manual Spicer Differential section for the best pictures of the different patterns. Here's a few pics I just took with my phone, the book wouldn't fit in my scanner.
As I'm about to under take a gear change on a Dana 60 front, I'm curious as to how you determined the pinion depth. I've read vast amounts of info on this. The current pinion is marked +2...and my new pinion is marked 0.
Dana gears
Can't say exactly, but always start with the shims you have in there now. I've done an old Dana 60 a few times in my old '74 highboy, and swapped a few gear sets (used). Because the dana 60 doesn't (or didn't at the time) use a crush-collar, it's "easy" to pull the pinion and adjust it if it needs it.
The +2 on the pinion would mean .002" LESS shim that you have now, but make sure that's correct, don't rely on me
Can't say exactly, but always start with the shims you have in there now. I've done an old Dana 60 a few times in my old '74 highboy, and swapped a few gear sets (used). Because the dana 60 doesn't (or didn't at the time) use a crush-collar, it's "easy" to pull the pinion and adjust it if it needs it.
The +2 on the pinion would mean .002" LESS shim that you have now, but make sure that's correct, don't rely on me
When I read through all the Dana axle texts, (even the Ford service manual) They use a master bearing, which really isn't a bearing at all, then you find the centerline (with a calibrated stepblock) of the carrier...build up the correct shim pack (again depending on the + or - of the pinion) and that is the starting point. SO, it would stand to reason the if the known pinion depth is say +2 and the new pinion is 0, then reference a chart
"If a new gear set is being used, notice the (+) or (-) etching on both the old and new pinion and adjust the thickness of the new shim pack to compensate for the differences of these two figures.
For example: If the old pinion reads +2 (m+5) and the new pinion is -2 (m-5), add .004" (. 10 mm) shims to the original shim pack."
When I read through all the Dana axle texts, (even the Ford service manual) They use a master bearing, which really isn't a bearing at all, then you find the centerline (with a calibrated stepblock) of the carrier...build up the correct shim pack (again depending on the + or - of the pinion) and that is the starting point. SO, it would stand to reason the if the known pinion depth is say +2 and the new pinion is 0, then reference a chart
"If a new gear set is being used, notice the (+) or (-) etching on both the old and new pinion and adjust the thickness of the new shim pack to compensate for the differences of these two figures.
For example: If the old pinion reads +2 (m+5) and the new pinion is -2 (m-5), add .004" (. 10 mm) shims to the original shim pack."
And if I am understanding you correctly, that should be a good starting point. If you are REAL LUCKY, you will hit it right the first time!
The old set-up (with different carrier, ring gear and pinion) had a .057 shim putting the pinion closer to the ring gear. As a starting point I just went back with that shim. Now I think I need to decrease that shim but I am curious how much I should take out. From the pictures what do you guys think?
Yes I am using "setup bearings" so it isn't too hard to take it apart and put it back together but I am just trying to cut down on the amount times I have to do this
It is close but I saw a few .011s. I think it needs to be between .006-.010.
I also need to get the pinion preload back in spec. I just had it close for the pattern but I need to put the torque wrench on it and verify the rotation torque which i think needs to be between 8-10 in/lbs for (used) setup bearings and 17-30 in/lbs once i press the new bearings on.
I dont think I mentioned this before but this is a Dana 60 front axle
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