Not every fire extinguisher is suitable for every fire. They are rated in four classes; A,B,C, and D.

1. Class A extinguishers will put out fires in ordinary combustibles such as wood and paper
2. Class B extinguishers are for use on flammable liquids like grease, gasoline and oil
3. Class C extinguishers are suitable for use only on electrically energized fires
4. Class D extinguishers are designed for use on flammable metals

Make sure you have one rated for what is burning. Some are multi class, such as A-B, B-C, or ABC.

I have DOT approved extinguishers from a semi dealer. Over the road trucks are required to carry one, so if it is DOT approved, it will be rated correctly for automotive use. An added bonus is that these usually come with new brackets to mount them in place so it is always where you put it.

I did this to prevent a heater box fire: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ur-pickup.html
I would recommend that if you do this modification, either replace your blower fan at the same time or flip the motor to the accessible side of the firewall as a few have done so you don't have to pull the box a second time.

Avoid the glass in hose fuel filters like the plague. I have seen more than one post across various forums of those causing fires.

Keep any manual oil pressure lines as far away from exhaust components as possible. I remember reading about one Hotrod Power Tour participant having that little line break and spray right on a header. Lit up the front of his El Camino. With help, he got the charred hulk back on the road to finish the tour, but it could have been prevented.

If you drive through the hills, check your exhaust for brush and don't park on dry vegetation.

Keep those valve covers from leaking. I used to work at a machine shop/auto shop that put the valve covers on with weather stripping adhesive. They were a bitch to get back off, but did not leak.

Used a hose rated for E85. It will handle E10 no problem. The biggest problem I have with the blended gas is it is formulated to run in pressurized systems so it is easily volatile enough to evaporate from my carb.

Speaking of carbs and E85 rated stuff, if you have a Holley or Holley based carb, spend few extra dollars to replace at least the accelerator pump diaphragm with the green E85 unit. If you let the standard one sit for a couple months it will split and drip all over the intake. There are rebuild kits specifically for rebuilding your carb for E85 usage and there is no one keeping you from using it with E10 or straight gas.

Just a couple ideas.

 

All very good ideas. I've been looking at ABC only. And I only run premium for the very reasons you stated about E10 and E85 gas.

 

All the above is great. Make sure if you have a locking hood latch, leave it un key locked and have it lubricated and working/adjusted properly. Not the pull the handle, go bang on the hood, go repull the handle. now try. And if that little cable breaks, just call the insurance company.