Steering alignment
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I'd be curious how the geometry looks with a stock pitman arm? How much height difference between the two? Will it raise the drag link too high? My guess is with the solid axle, it sits much higher then the TTB did. Thus the drop is needed to help get the geometry closer.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 1,175
From: San Jose, CA
I would not go to a stock arm at this point. Your draglink angle is good. Up to a point, the lower the overall angle is better.
But that's why I asked about a trackbar. If you had one installed you would want to be as close to parallel between the trackbar and draglink as possible. Though a trackbar with leaf springs and solid axle is of questionable value (questions, questions?
), it's what Ford did no some trucks even with leaf springs.
But with no trackbar to match, the lower your draglink's angle, the better. More direct steering feel and less chance for bumpsteer.
So the dropped arm is likely the best choice to stick with.
Definitely time to center the box with the wheels straight ahead like that.
If the arm is keyed it's easy to fix. Some of the old ones were in fact keyed, because they were expected to be used on modestly lifted trucks and simply used in the stock locations.
If keyed, they're not that hard of steel, so a triangular file and about 20 minutes of your time and you have a fully splined arm. Just use the edge of the file to cut a "spline" groove in the middle of the double-splines and you're good.
Paul
But that's why I asked about a trackbar. If you had one installed you would want to be as close to parallel between the trackbar and draglink as possible. Though a trackbar with leaf springs and solid axle is of questionable value (questions, questions?
), it's what Ford did no some trucks even with leaf springs.But with no trackbar to match, the lower your draglink's angle, the better. More direct steering feel and less chance for bumpsteer.
So the dropped arm is likely the best choice to stick with.
Definitely time to center the box with the wheels straight ahead like that.
If the arm is keyed it's easy to fix. Some of the old ones were in fact keyed, because they were expected to be used on modestly lifted trucks and simply used in the stock locations.
If keyed, they're not that hard of steel, so a triangular file and about 20 minutes of your time and you have a fully splined arm. Just use the edge of the file to cut a "spline" groove in the middle of the double-splines and you're good.
Paul
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I remember back in the 80's, buddy had a '76 3/4 ton Suburban 4x4. Had 4" axle, 3" body lift and typically ran 38" Super Swampers on it. It was bigger then a school bus!!! Sure did have fun back then.
When we finished the 4" axle lift it wouldn't turn around in 40 acres going to the right. It was crazy. He bought the 4" spacer for the arm on the spindle and gained all his geometry back.
When we finished the 4" axle lift it wouldn't turn around in 40 acres going to the right. It was crazy. He bought the 4" spacer for the arm on the spindle and gained all his geometry back.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 151
Likes: 9
I attempted to pull the Pittman arm off last night but with the puller I rented I couldn't get a good bite on the Pittman so the puller would just jack to one side. What style pulling would you guys recommend?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 151
Likes: 9
Yes I used a hammer but if the puller is set up correctly I shouldnt have to hit it. My problem was I couldnt get a solid bite on the Pittman. There wasn't enough room between that and the steering box
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 151
Likes: 9
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Your pitman arm is on right, if it was clocked wrong you wouldn’t get it on without hitting the frame or crossmember. What I see as the problem is your drag link adjustment it bottomed out, you need to lengthen it till the pitman arm is pointing straight out in front with the wheels straight. It’s very common for people to remove the steering wheel and clock it to straighten the wheel which maybe why you can’t get the wheel centered.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 1,175
From: San Jose, CA
Good call. I was thinking backwards and that he's already adjusted it, but had gone all the way in, instead of out. Needs to go the other way.
Move the adjustment to extend the draglink will put the arm farther to the driver's side, like we're talking about.
But it's still a legit method to remove the arm (or the draglink) so that the box can be checked for being centered and the steering wheel to match. Once that's done, you simply adjust the draglink out to fit.
If it's not long enough to do that, then that's another issue to deal with.
Paul
Move the adjustment to extend the draglink will put the arm farther to the driver's side, like we're talking about.
But it's still a legit method to remove the arm (or the draglink) so that the box can be checked for being centered and the steering wheel to match. Once that's done, you simply adjust the draglink out to fit.
If it's not long enough to do that, then that's another issue to deal with.
Paul
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 1,175
From: San Jose, CA
Well then something does sound off still. Maybe the arm is just not in the right spot.
Since everything in the steering is based off of the box being on-center, it makes sense to make sure of that point first. Then work down the list from there.
There are adjustable steering stops at the knuckles too, but they're rarely touched. However if someone extended the stop out for whatever reason, that could limit it as well.
And naturally, the higher the lift the more limited the right turn anyway, because everything wants to swing to the driver's side as it goes up. But the dropped pitman arm is supposed to help that.
Same for the trackbar. Perhaps it was not adjusted properly and the axle is swung to the driver's side too far. I did not see the trackbar in your pics. Can you get some shots of it for us?
Thanks
Paul
Since everything in the steering is based off of the box being on-center, it makes sense to make sure of that point first. Then work down the list from there.
There are adjustable steering stops at the knuckles too, but they're rarely touched. However if someone extended the stop out for whatever reason, that could limit it as well.
And naturally, the higher the lift the more limited the right turn anyway, because everything wants to swing to the driver's side as it goes up. But the dropped pitman arm is supposed to help that.
Same for the trackbar. Perhaps it was not adjusted properly and the axle is swung to the driver's side too far. I did not see the trackbar in your pics. Can you get some shots of it for us?
Thanks
Paul
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