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I have a 97 f250 its have been converted to a solid axle before I bought it. Every since I've had it I can not get the wheel straight because I'm out of adjustment. I've made the tie rods going down to the drag link as short as possible, even cut out some tie rod end to get more adjustments. I can turn too far to the left and not enough to the right. Has anyone ran into this problem?
Post some picture of the steering linkages. Almost sounds like the PO didn't make sure that the steering box and wheel were at the center position before connecting the linkages, I didn't think a pitman arm could be installed off center(isn't it keyed) but you can never underestimate the ingenuity of stupidity.
Looking at a spare pitman arm looks like there 4 evenly spaced key way, so maybe mine was install wrong. I have a dropped pitman arm right now but I think I should switch back to stock since I took my lift out. I'm having a problem with my steering so I'm debating on replacing the gear box this weeken. I have a clunking or popping I can feel it in the steering wheel and floor board that occurs when turn my wheel left to right seems to be in the same spot, all front end parts are new. I cant recreate this sound while on jack stands. Is it possible for a gear box to do this?
Have you inspected the frame around the steering box? They have cracked from lift kits and it could be the source of the popping sound. On jackstands, there would be no strain on the box with the wheels on the ground.
If you have the dropped arm without a lift kit, that could be the issue with lack of turning to one side. That geometry is critical.
If you jack it up with a lift, you need the drop arm to get it to turn both ways fully. Same scenario, both ways.
Just checked frame is intact. Even with my truck lifted I could get the steering wheel straight. Is it possible that the pitman arm is in the wrong spot? Also do you guys think a steering box could be cause this sound? Seems to happen I'm the same spot of steering wheel
I suppose you need to drop the drag link, make sure the steering wheel is in the center(equal turns left/right) and then see where the pitman arm is at and where your drag link is. Sounds like someone used the wrong parts somewhere.
I guess the box could be creating the noise. Once you drop the drag link, turn it and see if it still makes noise. That would isolate it.
Most aftermarket pitman arms do not have the keyed splines, so can go on in any of 36 positions. Stock ones are keyed, but can also be modified to eliminate the key splines.
I think it was already said but without a lift you don't need, or want a dropped pitman arm. But with a solid axle swap you do in effect have a lift over the stock F250 setup. Did you put stock F350 springs in it? Or what?
Is it an actual dropped arm, or perhaps just an F350 arm instead? Were they different?
Assuming the gearbox and frame are the same between the trucks, but now you have different linkages. What about a trackbar? Maybe they had to install a dropped arm because they didn't have an F350 arm, or it was just too tall to begin with.
This is where pics come in handy, so I'll add my request for pics to the others' too.
As was said, you need to check the gearbox is in it's on-center position before doing just about anything else (except pics!) For that pull the vehicle into the driveway or garage as straight as you can, then disconnect the linkage so you can find out if your box is centered at ride height. Swapping parts is sometimes straightforward and simple, and sometimes not so much. Maybe you need to do some tweaks to get it working properly.
With the box exactly centered, does the rod end line back up with the tapered hole in the arm? If not, how far off is it?
If it's too far to adjust, but only by a little, you could offset the arm by a spline or two at the most. Any more and you run into other issues, but even Ford has offset the arms on some vehicles in the past. Most of the time the arms point straight forward or backward, mimicking the line of the frame. Yet on some, like the Early Broncos with solid axles too, there were some years that had the pitman arm offset one spline (10°) to the driver's side without any real issues.
If it's more than that, you may have to come up with some custom linkage arms.
Once together, if when driving straight down the road your wheel is not straight, adjust the draglnk/tie-rod rather than moving the steering wheel.
You really should do this first, before you can diagnose other things. Since the suspension is back to stock (or is it?) then the linkage should be returned to stock as well.
How much taller were the 350's over the 250's anyway? About 2 or 3 inches perhaps? This can definitely mess with things.
Looking forward to seeing pics of your truck.
Thanks
Thanks for the feedback! I will take some pics in a minute, there is deffiantly a dropped Pittman arm from rough country. I have a spare stock style pitman arm, looks like it have 4 evenly spaced key ways, so maybe it possibly to put it on wrong. The truck did have 4 inch lift springs in the front, but I recently did a pmf rsk 2.5inch with super duty springs.
With the pitman arm aimed to the right(with tires straight), I'm guessing that is the reason it won't steer right very well. I'm thinking you need drop the drag link, center your steering box and then remove the pitman arm and install it straight ahead. Then adjust the draglink to fit.
Hopefully 1tonbasecamp is correct on the lack of keying on aftermarket pitman arms.
) For that pull the vehicle into the driveway or garage as straight as you can, then disconnect the linkage so you can find out if your box is centered at ride height. Swapping parts is sometimes straightforward and simple, and sometimes not so much. Maybe you need to do some tweaks to get it working properly.
