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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

zf swap question/clarification

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Old May 29, 2019 | 05:44 PM
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zf swap question/clarification

This is for my 86 f250 with a 460/c6, the zf5 came off a 1990 f350 460.
I have a ZF lined up to swap out my c6.
The guy who has it claims I can use a 87 pedal assembly but I keep seeing here 80-86 hydro assembly.
Can I use the 87 assembly if I buy the 87 clutch master cylinder or must I use the 80-86 assembly?
Of course he claims I don't need a master cylinder either since there is a slave on the transmission.
I'm pretty sure I do.
I also have seen people speak of a zf5 wire harness. I don't have access to this yet and not sure if I can find one locally yet.
I still need to get the crossmember/floor pan as well so I'm hoping when I find that I can find a harness as well.
Must I use it and if not, how much work is there involved in making my existing wiring work?
I know I need to buy the back up light switch and I can splice that in.
 
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Old May 30, 2019 | 11:24 AM
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found the answer it will not work due to dash differences.
Only other question I'm trying to get an answer to is if my automatic flywheel will be ok with the zf5.
Rockauto shows one for a T-19 but all the others they list don't really specify one way or the other.
 
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Old May 30, 2019 | 01:11 PM
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Your c6 does not not have a "flywheel", it has a flexplate, which is a very thin piece of metal with the gear welded to it on the outside. You are going to need a flywheel, which is a very thick piece of metal with the gear around it. I am not up on 460's, so I can't tell you if the later model flywheel will fit your engine, but if it will, that is what I would get.
 
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Old May 30, 2019 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Your c6 does not not have a "flywheel", it has a flexplate, which is a very thin piece of metal with the gear welded to it on the outside. You are going to need a flywheel, which is a very thick piece of metal with the gear around it. I am not up on 460's, so I can't tell you if the later model flywheel will fit your engine, but if it will, that is what I would get.
got it. I think they will from remembering past discussions, anyone will work as long as it's external balanced.
but I'll research it more.
Oh and I guess from further reading the harness isn't that big of a deal.
Just a matter of splicing some wires together for back up lights and starting the truck.
 

Last edited by dustyroad; May 30, 2019 at 10:23 PM. Reason: added wiring info
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 08:17 PM
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I'm going to be pulling a pedal assembly soon and from looking at mine it doesn't look like there is much to it.
Besides being a tight area to work in.
I watched a video on a guy rebuilding his assembly and he spoke about the column dropping. But his truck was an 87.
Will the column still drop on our 80-86's?
Don't want to yank wires out if it is going to drop. Or at least be prepared for the drop.
If the column looks good on the truck I'm taking the assembly from, I am going to see if I can get it also.
So would like to be easy on it.
Tips or tricks to pulling the assembly and column appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 09:01 PM
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The only thing that is going to break by dropping the column is the PRND2L indicator cable. You do not have to worry about this since you have a manual transmission, though if you happen to be converting or come across a PRND2L unit i would try to save it, they are getting hard to find that are not broken, someone could use it.

If you need to drop the column you can simply unbolt the u-clamp assembly under the dash, it will let the column drop a couple of inches if you need room. What I found aggravating when I swapped my pedal assembly was the speedo cable went through the square opening in the casting assembly for the pedals. No way was it going to come out without taking the speedo cable loose. This meant taking the cluster out so I could get my hand back there and unplug the speedo cable from the back of the speedometer, and I also had to unplug the plug from the cluster to get more room.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 09:03 PM
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And this whole operation is much easier if you take the seat out of the cab. Once you do that, you can pull the carpet back, take the panel out of the floor, and the upper bellhousing bolts are right there. And it's so much easier to lay in the floor with the seat out of the way to work under the dash.

P.S. You may need the floorpan for the zf for everything to swap in place.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
And this whole operation is much easier if you take the seat out of the cab. Once you do that, you can pull the carpet back, take the panel out of the floor, and the upper bellhousing bolts are right there. And it's so much easier to lay in the floor with the seat out of the way to work under the dash.

P.S. You may need the floorpan for the zf for everything to swap in place.
Good advice thank you. Especially on the speedo cable.
I am searching for a floorpan currently and the crossmember still. Thought I had the crossmember but it was damaged.
the biggest ticket is sitting on my garage floor and that's the zf5 attached to a transfer case that I hope to sell off to cover some of the costs.
everything else should come together.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 10:42 PM
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You will definitely need the transmission cover pan from a later truck (preferrably with the manual transmission). The pans on the 80-87 are too low and will not clear the shift tower on the ZF. Also if your truck is a 4x4, the t-case shift hole will NOT be in the new tranny cover pan, as it got relocated to the side of the trans tunnel in the later models.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2019 | 11:10 AM
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I do have a 4x4. how do you suggest dealing with the xfer case shifter with a new floor pan?
Do you just cut a hole for it or?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2019 | 11:20 AM
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Well you have two options. One, you can try to cut the t-case shifter hole in the ZF pan, but there's no guarantee that the t-case shifter and the ZF shift tower won't interfere with each other. The other option, and the one I did, was to cut a hole in the floor in the same place as the '88+ trucks and use an '88+ t-case shifter. This will ensure you don't have clearance problems, and IMHO, having the t-case shifter off the tranny tunnel is a cleaner look. Either way you have to do some cutting.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2019 | 04:17 PM
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yanked a steering column and pedal assembly out today.
It wasn't as bad as I was thinking it was going to be. About a 3 hour job.
Also scored the cluster with a factory tach!
The hardest part was really trying to get the booster separated from the firewall.
It just didn't want to come out. Ended up putting the bolts back on and beating the snot out of it with a long punch.
The writeup in the tech section helped a lot with the pictures knowing what I was looking at before I started.
 
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