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my dipstick goes down through the oil pan, the retaining nut has been stripped and need to replace it, Rtv is not doing the trick ,
how do i get the oil pan off without removing the engine?? Will there be enough room unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up as high as possible to remove the oil pan?
anyone ever had to do this before ??
I read the same thing as Walleye Hunter and also have no idea where I saw it either.
I've also read of people cutting out the crossmember and re-installing (welding?) it back in. That is way beyond my expertise.
I was in the same boat as you. Slathered TA-31 all over it to stop the drip and that worked...for about a year. Then I dumped 2 gallons in 20 miles.
It's not cheap but the "Golden Nugget" is a one-and-done thing. I went back and forth on it but the other repair kits had me reconditioning threads and after all that it might not work. I felt it was worth the premium to be done with it in one shot.
Many do not agree with the price but it works. Period.
I have jacked the engine up high enough to remove the oil pan without removing the engine before. You will have to jack the cab up off its mounts as well to give the engine enough clearance to be jacked up. I found that a piece of 2x4 wedged between each engine mount and the crossmember should give you enough room to remove the pan. I did all this so I could install a moroso oil pan gasket to fix a leak between the oil pan and the block. The engine blew a hole in piston #3 a year later and then the engine had to come out anyway.
I read the same thing as Walleye Hunter and also have no idea where I saw it either.
I've also read of people cutting out the crossmember and re-installing (welding?) it back in. That is way beyond my expertise.
I was in the same boat as you. Slathered TA-31 all over it to stop the drip and that worked...for about a year. Then I dumped 2 gallons in 20 miles.
It's not cheap but the "Golden Nugget" is a one-and-done thing. I went back and forth on it but the other repair kits had me reconditioning threads and after all that it might not work. I felt it was worth the premium to be done with it in one shot.
Many do not agree with the price but it works. Period.
Just my .02
Been over 2 years and not a drop. Worth every hard earned penny.
I have jacked the engine up high enough to remove the oil pan without removing the engine before. You will have to jack the cab up off its mounts as well to give the engine enough clearance to be jacked up. I found that a piece of 2x4 wedged between each engine mount and the crossmember should give you enough room to remove the pan. I did all this so I could install a moroso oil pan gasket to fix a leak between the oil pan and the block. The engine blew a hole in piston #3 a year later and then the engine had to come out anyway.
Thanks i was just talking to a friend that said i would probably have to jack the cab up also!
Also like the idea of the golden nugget, But not worth 300 bucks LOL sorry but i will spend a weekend getting it replaced, Besides i already have the new part laying on my shelf
Thanks for all the input , You guys are always an invaluable source of great info!
Also like the idea of the golden nugget, But not worth 300 bucks LOL sorry but i will spend a weekend getting it replaced, Besides i already have the new part laying on my shelf
I had Swamps rebuild my engine when it blew and they welded the dipstick bung into the oil pan. That is probably a more permanent fix with the factory style bung rather than relying on the o-ring to seal.
If you choose to jack the cab and engine up, don't forget to release the transmission mount at the back of the transmission from the crossmember. Once jacked up, support the back end of the transmission so it isn't cantilevered on the engine the whole time.
Thanks i was just talking to a friend that said i would probably have to jack the cab up also!
Also like the idea of the golden nugget, But not worth 300 bucks LOL sorry but i will spend a weekend getting it replaced, Besides i already have the new part laying on my shelf
Thanks for all the input , You guys are always an invaluable source of great info!
What route are you going to take? If you're jacking and removing in place a report would be great.
If the part inside the pan threads are good you could get away with just replacing the nut and O ring without removing the pan but if its stripped or warped the you have to remove the pan. If it were me I would just remove the engine and re seal the entire engine, the method of resealing the oil pan while in the chassi almost never works why? Oil will constantly be dripping sometimes for a week or more just FYI. you could end up with a oil pan leak next then the frustration will take ahold of you.
i am still pondering, as much as i don't want to spend 300.00 bucks on nugget, i really have no time to remove the oil pan, ( work truck , camping truck , hunting truck ) LMAO never any down time!
will order the nugget soon and just be done, no other option then to just let the inside piece fall into the oil pan!
