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Hi all, the last thing to get this beast to hopefully pass inspection is the horn. I'm gonna need some help putting the disconnected bits of the wiring back together.
Horn actuation has been relocated to this little button on the column. Two wires come out of it. One is currently tied off around my parking brake handle, as it was loose when I bought the truck. The other disappears under the dash going who knows where.
Button on the column
Up front, there are the two horns mounted behind the radiator, in what I assume is their normal spot. They are connected by a yellow wire, with no other wiring going to them. I tested them with a wire direct from the battery, and only the passenger side one is working. Good enough for now.
Also up front is this doohickey, the horn relay, I believe it's called. It has one positive wire direct from the battery going to it, nothing else. You can see a small item (looks rather like the condenser on a Ford 8n) that looks like it's supposed to be attached. Horn "Relay"?
It looks like there should be two wires in addition to the positive battery lead to the horn relay. One goes direct to the horn, the other direct to the button, which is grounded on the other side. On a fundamental level, the horn is in a simple circuit with the battery and horn button, and the circuit is completed when the button is pushed. Sound right? In that case, what the heck is that funky little condenser looking thing by the relay?
Right now I just want to get it working off the button on the column, since I assume it was relocated for some reason. Eventually I'd like to move it back where it's supposed to be.
Below are some shots with the horn ring off. Does anyone see anything obviously wrong?
Not an authority but from my understanding the horn circuit consist of a 3 prong horn relay usually located next to or near the voltage regulator. 1 prong runs to the batt, a 2nd wire runs to the horns which should be grounded at the radiator support, and the 3rd wire runs from the horn relay to a 6 prong connector under the dash where 1 of the pin wires runs to a horn brush at the turn signal switch. It is important that all surfaces from the horn ring/button to the horn brush at the turn signal switch are clean, in addition, the circuit from the steering box thru the rag joint thru the steering column shaft is complete, I run a separate wire from 1 side of the rag joint to the other side? Should be able to touch a jump wire from the horn brush at the turn signal brush to the steering column shaft to test the circuit. There is a 2nd horn brush that inserts into an insulator located in the steering wheel.
Suspect the horn button in the truck has circumvented the horn relay, wire running from the 6 prong connector to the brush located at the turn signal switch by running a single wire to a power source and the other wire to the horn(s). Suggest pulling the steering wheel and test the single wire running from the 6 pin connector to the turn signal switch and if there's continuity should be a matter of purchasing the horn relay and a couple of horn brushes and check the white plastic horn button retainer and add to shopping list if dogears are worn? Suggest using a steering wheel puller; For info purposes I purchased an epoxy putty and repaired the crack in the steering wheel on my 65 using a mini rectangular file to increase the crack surface then fill with the putty keeping finger moist and only use enough putty to fill the crack keeping in mind excess putty will need to be sanded down and that can be labor intensive.
Notice the hole at 8 o'clock. This is where the only horn brush and insulator are located in the wheel. The insulator is present, but the brush is missing. Brush contains a tiny copper wire that snaps.
C2OZ-13A821-A .. Horn Brush / Reproduced ~ Available from all the repro parts sellers
I think I'm just going to try to put it back to stock now, rather than keep monkeying with this half-baked job.
I found where the yellow wire from the column horn button was likely grounded, where the column bolts to the dash. It had broken off. Put that back. The blue wire to the button reads 0.05 volts, grounding it with a voltmeter, FWIW. According to my understanding, the blue wire to the button is likely the original horn ring wire, relocated outside the column.
There is no horn wiring under the hood. No relay, no nothing. Not sure what good the PO thought the button would do if it was not connected to the horn. At the six pin connector that should carry the wire from the horn ring everything dives into an electric taped mess.
My plan of action is to undo that bit of work and find the end of the wire the should go to the horn ring and test it for continuity. If it checks out I'll get the horn brush an reconnect the in-cab end of things. Then install a new relay and run the positive power and horn wires.
On an unrelated note, what's the deal with the generator voltage regulator? Reposting my pic of it, you can see that there are three terminals and only one connected wire.
Would it be beneficial to put that loose connector where it appears to go? There's another connector I found all taped up into the wiring to the alternator, that would seem to go on the middle post. The alternator end of that mess has three wires; two go to the alternator and the third is broken off.
The truck starts fine and the battery stays charged, so I'm inclined to leave well enough alone, but what gives with all the unconnected wires?
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At the six pin connector that should carry the wire from the horn ring everything dives into an electric taped mess. 
