The optional 1961/64 alternators were usually supplied to FoMoCo by Leece-Neville, but what they cost, I haven't a clue.

1963/64 Thunderbird and the alternators introduced in 1965 were Auto-Lite's as FoMoCo owned Auto-Lite back then.

The original 'point type' alternator regulator part number was: C3SZ-10316-A (C3SZ = 1963 Thunderbird).

Ford updated the part number several times, the last number was D4TZ-10316-A .. Then in 1982, it was replaced by E2PZ-10316-A an electronic regulator that had MOTORCRAFT stamped on its flat cover.

Ford updated the part number in 1990: FOPZ-10316-A

 

A 3g alternator is ridiculously easy to install. I used a 1994 Mustang 130a alternator and a Painless 30831 harness on my 72.
https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30831.pdf
My ‘63 had generator and regulator when I got it but now has a three wire GM alternator.

 

Ok, more questions have arisen. I really appreciate all the help.

I acquired a horn relay and brush from Dennis Carpenter. Nice fast shipping, arrived the second day.

Question #1: There are three wires that go to the relay; one from positive battery power, one to the horn, and one to the horn button. Which wire goes on which relay terminal?

The left terminal is marked as #1, middle is #3, right is #5.




Question #2: There are six wires connected to the turn signal switch. One of them shows 12 volts when grounded to the top of the steering column. This, I assume, is the horn wire. Is that correct? I need to know to trace it out under the hood and connect it to the relay. On a related note, I assume six wires is the right number? I'm not missing any?


The blue one second from the top is the one that carries 12 volts with the key on.

Question #3: My horn brush looks like this. Did I get the right part? It's slightly too big to fit in the previously-discussed-by-ND bushing under the horn ring. I can drill the bushing out a bit, but ..... wrong part or just crummy part?




Question #4: How, exactly, does the 12V current get from the turn signal switch up to the contact plate directly underneath the horn ring (that grounds to the top of the column)? I can trace it backwards from that plate through the horn brush and to the plate that mounts to the bottom of the steering wheel, but then where? I want to be able to check for continuity and make sure all the components are present, clean, etc. Here's an image of the inside of the column, underneath the wheel. Does everything seem in order? I know on other threads people have talked about another brush, somewhere under the wheel (it's a bit fuzzy what exactly they're discussing). Is that applicable to a 1961 F250 2wd? Is it missing?



Thanks. It's a long-winded post, but y'all are lifesavers on getting this figured out. Hopefully this will help somebody else with a similar problem sometime.

 

Post #10 has the horn wiring diagram pic from the shop manual.

 

Just noticed that. Got the relay wired, ‘cept for the horn button wire.

 

There are different designs between F100 and F250, and years, in the 1960s. That doesn't look anything like the mechanism in my '64 F100, it uses 2 brushes. One under the steering wheel, and one visible when the horn button is removed, just like your truck. If you had to hog out the plastic receptacle to make that particular brush fit that wouldn't hurt anything, though there are other brushes available. Follow each point of contact.

Wherever the bottom of the brush contacts basically, should show continuity to the horn wire bullet connector at the engine side of the firewall. I would pull the steering wheel off my F100 to show you how it is setup, but it wouldn't really do any good since it's different design, and I've had quite enough of pulling and reinstalling the steering wheel, had an intermittent that kicked my *** for a little while. It's always the stupid stuff that is aggravating. Pull an engine, re-install? No problem! Horn inop? Problem. lol

 

That’s pretty cool. Early metal T/S switch. I have one like that in a spare steering column but the one currently in my truck is plastic.

 

Another question you’d think I’d have figured out by now in this story: which wire, where they come through the firewall, is the horn wire? Maybe I’m just inexperienced at reading wiring diagrams, but I’m having difficulty relating the one in post #10 to what I see on the engine side of the firewall. I can post a pic of that, if it would help.

 

I hear ya. I’m working on an 8n tractor, one of the simplest electrical systems known to man. (Of course, since it was the first one I ever messed with, it didn’t seem that way at first.) I had it running for the first time in a couple years the other day. Switched it off and cleaned up some of the wiring that was running every which way, out in the open so I could work on it. Just tucking it back under the hood, taping it out of the way. Hit the starter again, and nada.
It’s still sitting in the yard.

 

Blue wire with yellow stripe. Should have a bullet connector.

 

You have a test light, right? The kind that looks sorta like a ballpoint pen with a scribe end, and an alligator clip and a couple feet of wire? Or can make one easy by soldering wires &c on a tailight bulb. I suck at chasing sparks, but the idea is start probing where it works and work back to where it doesn't. The harness connectors split the circuit. "Divide and conquer".

Should be able to sound the horn from the relay itself, mounted on the apron, through test light or jumper wire to ground. Horn and brakes are always "hot".

 

Here's pictures of the two different types of horn brush. My 4x4 truck uses the first one and my 2WD trucks use the second one. I'd think you need the second size to fit correctly.

 

Right now I just ran an extra wire from the relay to the button on the column, and the horn will at least blow from there. Now at least I can mull the issue while driving the thing!

 

Hey, it works, that's the main thing. You'll get it back into shape. A horn is required equipment, legally too. I was getting frustrated with the horn in my truck, it would work fine in the garage, but everytime I drove it, seemed to stop working.

 

I bought one of the reproduction C2OZ horn brushes for a 2WD truck and it appeared to function properly until I assembled the horn rim to the steering wheel, then nothing. I removed the steering wheel and discovered that it was stuck down in the hole too far to contact the slip ring. I cut the end of a wire terminal off and used it as a spacer to push the brush further out of the hole. So far it's working great.

Use a voltmeter to verify the blue wire with yellow stripe has 12 volts. It should be hot at all times if the relay is working. With the steering wheel removed the lower brush should have 12 volts. When you install the steering wheel, the brush in the wheel should also have 12 volts. If you jumper from the upper steering wheel brush to the steering shaft, the horn should sound. If you have 12 volts on the brush but the horn doesn't sound, then you need to ground the steering shaft at the rag joint.