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Ok took my hinges off today to fix rust between them and the cab and noticed my passenger side door spring is sheared off. So I need to replace it. I also need to replace the pins, which I already have, but still in the return window. It looks like these springs are either riveted or spot welded in place.
Dorman Spring kits will run about $20 shipped for both doors.
Is it worth the hassle to drill these things out when Rock Auto has complete door hinge assemblies for $23? Has anyone messed with the springs before?
I thought there was a post not long ago on this? Or was it in 1 of the other truck years?
I think Bill said you could not get the springs as they only came with the hinge.
Again it could have been for one of the other year truck as I like to see what others are doing to their trucks.
Now if you can get the springs talking $20 to the door. You have the pins so $? but you can return them. Then you have to mess with all this to make it new again.
OR
Buy a new hinge assy. for $23 and not need to mess with it ....... I am lazy so guess how I would go
Yep new hinge I would also keep the pins and maybe down the road get the spring and rebuild and keep as a spare. Even without the spring just do the pins and put on the shelf.
Dave ----
I just replaced the drivers side door hinge pin and bushings (great results btw) and noticed my door spring is missing on that side. I didn’t look closely enough at the passenger side to see what is entailed in replacement. Interested to see what you come up with.
I'm leaning towards just buying new hinge assemblies at this point. This is what the passenger one looks like:
And here is the driver's one that is still in tact. You'll see the two rivets. In the second picture. It looks like the replacement springs just use the factory mounting bolts to hole a new spring in. I'm not sure I want to risk jacking up a cobalt bit on this guy. Time to drill it out, risk a bit, plus $13 for new spring, and time to reassemble doesn't work out to be much cheaper an option if at all when a replacement assembly from Rock Auto is $23.
I will have to look at mine to see what they are like but from what I can remember the doors opening & closing like I don't have any springs working.
The parts truck did not have any on the cab as they went with the doors when they were sold.
Dave ----
I just replaced the drivers side door hinge pin and bushings (great results btw) and noticed my door spring is missing on that side. I didn’t look closely enough at the passenger side to see what is entailed in replacement. Interested to see what you come up with.
Did you pull the hinge from the door first? If so did you have any trouble realigning the door?
Did you pull the hinge from the door first? If so did you have any trouble realigning the door?
I did not. Someone had previously replaced the hinge pins so no cutting was involved. I had a helper hold the door while I drove pins out. Replaced bushings and pins and slapped the door back on there. Lines up much better and, after slapping some Pex on the striker bolt, feels nice and tight. Alignment to the edge of the fender could be better, but I’m unsure that’s strictly a hinge or striker bolt issue, and it’s close enough I’m not fooling with it again.
i need to eyeball my setup again. I can’t imagine it’s different than yours but I don’t remember that spring setup. I have a “detent” bar and wheel that I referred to as a spring for lack if a better term at the time, and the drivers side is missing the bar.
Did you pull the hinge from the door first? If so did you have any trouble realigning the door?
I replaced my driver's side hinges long time ago. Got the hinges from the Ford Dealer so they were OEM. Where the old hinges were was visible so to start with I aligned the new hinges to the shadow of where the old ones were. Then don't tighten the hinge bolts to full torque. Snug them up so that with a bit of prying with a large screwdriver or a tap using a screw driver or a long extension, the hinges can still be moved a bit. Then check the door for alignment and make the final adjustment on the hinges. When the door gaps and fender to door gaps are good then do the final torquing.
I still think for the $23 for a new one it does not pay to even mess with it.
Dave ----
After mulling it over and add in the rust etc with it I just ordered a new one. Like you said. Reworking the whole thing wasn't worth messing with vs just buying it for $23
the only time it's worthwhile drilling, to me, is for super expensive ones like my 58 apache. lotta work. Wouldn't bust out the bits for less than $50 for pair. some rare ones and hard to find are like $75 and up if you can even find. Then, to me, it's worth fighting them.
