Bed mounts/bolts?
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Bed mounts/bolts?
86 standard cab/bed getting ready to pull the bed so I can get better access to the frame.
I was also getting ready to order a poly body mount kit and was having a hard time finding bed bushings and bolts.
Any line on these or use what you want? what grade and shank size? I would like something personally with a T-50 head to make future removals easy.
I was also getting ready to order a poly body mount kit and was having a hard time finding bed bushings and bolts.
Any line on these or use what you want? what grade and shank size? I would like something personally with a T-50 head to make future removals easy.
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From: Virginia
The beds use no rubber or plastic bushings, it's just metal to metal.
The bolts are special, you might be able to find them from LMC or another place that sells Ford parts. The hole in the bed is very large and the top of the bolt is very large with a shoulder on it. The hole in the frame is smaller, close to 1/2" diameter (I believe the factory bolt may be 12mm).
So if you grind the heads off to get the bed off, you will find you still have the bolt stuck in the frame and you will have to cut them in two to get them out of the frame.
What I usually use is new 1/2 regular bolts with very large washers on top. I have also used 1/2" carriage bolts with large washers, but I had to grind two flats on the rounded head to hold them while they are being tightened. The factory uses a shoulder bolt so the u-shaped metal underneath the bed will not be collapsed when you tighten the bolt, but I have never had a problem with this.
The bolts are special, you might be able to find them from LMC or another place that sells Ford parts. The hole in the bed is very large and the top of the bolt is very large with a shoulder on it. The hole in the frame is smaller, close to 1/2" diameter (I believe the factory bolt may be 12mm).
So if you grind the heads off to get the bed off, you will find you still have the bolt stuck in the frame and you will have to cut them in two to get them out of the frame.
What I usually use is new 1/2 regular bolts with very large washers on top. I have also used 1/2" carriage bolts with large washers, but I had to grind two flats on the rounded head to hold them while they are being tightened. The factory uses a shoulder bolt so the u-shaped metal underneath the bed will not be collapsed when you tighten the bolt, but I have never had a problem with this.
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So it looks like these are just carriage bolts with long shanks. Maybe to catch the frame? And the nuts are just M12 shouldered lock nuts.
Sizes for appear to be:
N803022-S40 = M12 x 1.75 x 88.9
N803020-S40 = M12 x 1.75 x 76.2
N803020-S40 = M12 x 1.75 x 108.0
It would appear any bolt matching those dimensions will work as the "replacement" non OEM bolt kit from LMC is only $10 but doesn't have those shoulders.
Sizes for appear to be:
N803022-S40 = M12 x 1.75 x 88.9
N803020-S40 = M12 x 1.75 x 76.2
N803020-S40 = M12 x 1.75 x 108.0
It would appear any bolt matching those dimensions will work as the "replacement" non OEM bolt kit from LMC is only $10 but doesn't have those shoulders.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 666
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From: Springfield, MO
85 and 86 are the same (the / after the 85 is like 'on').
Yes, probably the vast majority of people that have to replace them use carriage bolts from the hardware store. You are correct on the nuts. Nothing special about them.
Yes, probably the vast majority of people that have to replace them use carriage bolts from the hardware store. You are correct on the nuts. Nothing special about them.
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Springfield, MO
Also, you might check out the dorman set for later years to see if the dimensions are close enough as I believe they have the torx head. Not positive on that though. Or, go the eBay route like I did.
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From: Virginia
Like I mentioned in the previous post, a regular carriage bolt is not correct and will require a very large washer, a washer large enough that the square part under the bolt head fits down into the washer. And then you hve no way of holding the bolt to tighten it. I just started using regular bolts.
If you bought a carriage bolt large enough to fit the square hole in the bed, you would have to drill the holes in the frame out to a very large size.
If you bought a carriage bolt large enough to fit the square hole in the bed, you would have to drill the holes in the frame out to a very large size.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Springfield, MO
Like I mentioned in the previous post, a regular carriage bolt is not correct and will require a very large washer, a washer large enough that the square part under the bolt head fits down into the washer. And then you hve no way of holding the bolt to tighten it. I just started using regular bolts.
If you bought a carriage bolt large enough to fit the square hole in the bed, you would have to drill the holes in the frame out to a very large size.
If you bought a carriage bolt large enough to fit the square hole in the bed, you would have to drill the holes in the frame out to a very large size.
Exactly - I came across more than a few mentions of welding the new carriage bolt to the bed although I like your of putting two flats on it for a wrench better.
Scratch - Have you removed the bed yet and are the bolts shot?
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I was under there the other day the bolts for the body mounts and bed are so rusted it's hard to tell them from the nuts or frame. I'm going to have to cut them out.
Now that I understand the mounting system better it's apparent Fords solution to a smooth looking bed and one man install was these funky shank carriage bolts. I'm liking the idea of using a bolt of significant length and diameter with a T-50 head and a washer under said head.
You can see LMC and JBG both sell bed to frame insulators. These or a bit of polysulfide seal to may a Fay seal would help prevent any galvanic corrosion between the bed and frame.
Now that I understand the mounting system better it's apparent Fords solution to a smooth looking bed and one man install was these funky shank carriage bolts. I'm liking the idea of using a bolt of significant length and diameter with a T-50 head and a washer under said head.
You can see LMC and JBG both sell bed to frame insulators. These or a bit of polysulfide seal to may a Fay seal would help prevent any galvanic corrosion between the bed and frame.
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From: Angier, NC
I found nothing between the frame & bed cross members on my parts truck when I removed the bed so I did not use anything when I used the floor on my flare side.
I think I have heard of some using a tire tube between the 2 to stop noise.
The bolts have an oval shank as does the bed holes and that is what keeps the bolt from turning when working on the nuts from the bottom side.
What also helped on mine is my floor was bed lined and other then needing to remove the 2 front & 2 rear most bolts I left them lined in place.
Dave ----
I think I have heard of some using a tire tube between the 2 to stop noise.
The bolts have an oval shank as does the bed holes and that is what keeps the bolt from turning when working on the nuts from the bottom side.
What also helped on mine is my floor was bed lined and other then needing to remove the 2 front & 2 rear most bolts I left them lined in place.
Dave ----
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