I need some guidance/advice, please!! I recently bought a 1994 7.3 idi factory turbo, non-powerstroke (VIN K) truck had 300k and is now at 310k. I was unsure of how much basic and preventitive maintenance had been performed recently so I did the basics, fuel filter change, added injector cleaner (I used the right amount to split it between the two tanks), filled both tanks and ran it through, changed the oil, topped off the other fuilds, etc. Well a few times over the few months ive had her there would be a quarter sized spot left under her. My oil, coolant, steering, trans, all fluids were normal so I ddnt think much of it. For what ever reason, that quarter sized spot went to a massive pour quickly after cranking her up. Well I was about 10-15 miles from home, so I tried to make it and ran out of fuel less than 1/4 mile from gas station. Leak was from around the injector boots. I found regular black o-rings, didn't even look like the correct size on them. I actually was planning on doing injectors within the next few weeks so I had the correct Viton (spellling?) ones already.

First thing I did was put correct o-rings on boots and stopped leak. Walked down to the gas station for diesel and a can of ether. Got back, cracked a couple of the injector lines, depressed Schrader valve and gave her a few cranks, no bubbles, no fuel. Hit Schrader, closed and cracked diff injector lines, nothing . Low and behold, an issue that had only happened one other time so far, decided to join the party. As soon as I would turn the key, WTS light immediately turned off and I started getting the continuous clicking from the glow plug relay. I disconnected, cleaned off, and put new connectors on and made sure they were correct. Still, a continuous clicking. As I stated, I was unsure about what had and hadn't been done, so with them being so easy to get to, and less than $100 for a set of 8, I walked the couple miles to O'reillys and replaced the glow plugs. While there, I figured since I ran all the way out, fuel filter got ahold of whatever junk was in tank n lines, so I got one and replaced it as well. New plugs and filter are on (yes I filled the filter up with new diesel). I'm still getting a continuous clicking.

Mind you, I'm still in a parking lot on the side of the road, good ways from home. I just wanted to get back and deal with the issue once I was home. I purchased 2 brand new batteries right at one month prior, and even had a passerby hook up cables and I tried firing her up, nothing. Couple shots of ether, runs for 5 seconds, turns off. No air from shrader, crack injector lines and try, no bubbles from injectors. Take fuel filter off, about half-way drained. Take fuel line off filter housing and try firing, not a drop. I've read the posts and asked a couple diesel mechanics from work, but I just want some more input.

Truck is still in said parking lot, and I'm not a rich man, so I don't want to waste unnecessary time or money on parts I don't need to replace.

I guess my question is, where would you guys start? Am I going straight to the tank and replacing the pick-ups, am I going to the FSV (fuel selector valve) since they've been known to stick between tanks, am I going for the injector pump, or is there something else super simple I'm missing? I don't really have anyone to help me, so turning the key and trying to start her up, AND running voltage checks or anything is difficult. Guys I really need some pointers cause my trucks going to eventually get towed and there's around $3k worth of tools in her still. Any comments, concerns, ANYTHING will help!! Previous experiences, whatever you got, please send um!!

Thanks so much, hope to hear something soon!

Chris

 

Sorry to hear about the troubles... first things first if you have no fuel coming out of the Schrader valve while cranking, your fuel is below the pickup in the tank(out of fuel) OR your lift pump is toast and not pumping, or as you said the FSV could be stuck.

The simplest way is to get your own diesel jug and supply the lift pump with that while doing the rest below. But you ran out of fuel, so I doubt there is some random FSV failure. Speaking of the FSV, I found that rocking the switch back and forth slowly 5-10 times when I get fuel keeps it lubricated and working. Mine used to stick but not since I did that.

Once those things are verified/fixed then to get the IP and injectors primed it's a good idea to crack as many injector lines at the injector as possible. Leave them that way until you get liquid coming out and tighten each one as the bubbles end and liquid stays.
(You can run the starter from under the hood. Transmission in neutral, key on engine off, look at the starter solenoid on the firewall. Jump the positive post to the small trigger post with the 5/8 wrench or a screwdriver. The starter will run until you quit jumping it. But only drive it for 20 second intervals with 2 mins rest, this will keep it from burning out)

The big problem here is battery life. Hard to purge the system more than once even on good batteries. And with a weak/old/bad rebuild IP can be almost impossible.
HOWEVER something I found was that gasoline in a spray bottle will run the engine as long as you can spray it. This is dangerous and should only be attempted with a trained group of fire safety personnel and on someone else's engine.
But seriously even the spark from the solenoid jump could light you and the truck on fire. You must also disable the glow plugs OR wait for them to cycle down incase all of a sudden they started working (5 mins after key-on).
Maybe more practical is using ether to do the same thing, wait until the engine is turning then give it LITTLE squirts. You'll get the hang of it fast if you need more, but too much = BAD things.

Hope that helps, I didn't mean to write so much just now, haha!
-Joshua

P.S. if the parts store glow plugs arent Motocraft or Beru plugs get them switched out ASAP or you'll likely be pulling a head to find the tip that broke off. Tons of stories out there if you want to search!

 

I've heard, that or them swelling up and being impossible to take back out. I normally try and get motorcraft parts when available. I didn't want to kill my batteries trying to get her cranked so I hooked a battery charger to each battery and let them trickle charge/maintain, while I tried firing her up. Nothing.

So hypothetically, let's say I take a whole.5 gal can, and pull fuel straight from there, primes, injectors are squirting, close them, Schrader is pissing, she fires up. Other than hooking the lines back up and risking sucking air back if it's stuck, is there a way to check the FSV and see if/which tank it's on?

And other scenario, line straight into fuel can, no fuel to filter or injectors, bleed and bleed, still get nothing. That pretty much pegs it to being the lift pump correct? If it was getting to Schrader but not injectors then it'll be the IP, right? If not what else could be the issue?

Just cant really afford to throw parts at it guessing. Especially when parts havent been something the stores near me keep in stock and normally take until the next morning to get.

 

Scenario #1: The FSV is tricky when its sticking. Did you switch tanks and then run out or something? You seem really worried about the FSV.

Scenario #2 Yes if nothing out the Schrader then the lift pump is hosed. If you had the thing driving then you most likely didn't have a total IP failure and it should be just as good as before you ran out of fuel.

I also don't believe in throwing parts at a problem, especially with the lack of quality aftermarket parts for the fuel system of an IDI.