Well the time has come my ICP is puking oil out

Just picked up a new one from dealer

It's been unplugged for a few and I put that new delo oil in and my truck absolutely hated that stuff maybe the new sensor will change its mind o.o

 

Good luck Benny! I tried the Delo also, engine seemed a little noisy after a couple of thousand miles, went back to Rotella. I guess some of these engines are just like that, BITOG gives it good scores and Mark has posted a few of his UOA’s and it looks like good stuff, not sure why my truck don’t like it. Maybe some of it is just what we’re used to. I could make a fairly accurate guess of when my oil change is due just based on the way it sounds, lol.

 

I just got the ICP installed went for a ride it's smoothed out idle and transmission is shifting more correctly

New ICPV@.20 KOEO

IM SURE the ICP being unplug had allot to do with oil

It's mostly had rottella for most it's life

Jury is still out on delo I'll update it after the next cold soak run

 

That sensor is site a test of patience behind that turbo haha

Hope the ford sensors go further than the international one I had before this

 

I'm hoping you finally get some success also Benny!

 

I'm really surprised you 03-04 guys don't have a hydraulic shop make a high pressure line to relocate the ICP towards the FICM/degas tank area to make it a little more serviceable. I know I check my ICP plug every oil change for a leak but mine's an 05. Alot easier to do.
Just a thought.

 

Yes it needs a relocation it would be well worth it

And if it could mount somehow to that rear intake stud bolt where the FICM ground loop bolts to or something close where the wire harness could still used without modification

Have you hugged your turbo today 😄

I'm hoping to take the truck out of service for some service this summer. It really needs a cab off and bed off to freshen up all the undercoating rust is killing it plus oil cooler and condenser. Tires some bushings etc just a whole bunch of TLC

 

I was just looking at this today, for like the sixth time. A male fitting to connect at the cover isn't an issue. You could even drill and tap for a standard NPT fitting. The problem is the sensor bolt-up female end.

While it's a 12mmx1.5mm straight thread, using an o-ring seal, the issue is how the o-ring is captured. And it's done with a tapered recess that has to be correct not only for the taper but the depth. There are two vendors that sell "Kits", but they leak. They always leak. Because they cobble up a normal straight female 12mm union.

I found the proper tool to bore the fitting, but if I remember correctly it was like $600, and you need a mill.

I have spent hours, probably an entire day, trying to find the proper over the counter fitting, going through Parker, Swagelok, etc.

 

I noticed the recess for the oring in that cover as well today defiantly see your point Jack didnt relize it was tapper cut till you mention it though


There's just to much pressure in the system to not have a taper cut for that oring too bad the aftermarket or dealer have come up with a viable option yet cause I'd gladly pay up to $150 for it

I guess the bright side I've only changed it 2 times in 14 years of ownership

 

For the sensor end, you could use a union 12x1.5 female both ends and adapt from there.
Heres a link

 

Correct me if wrong

But there is no fitting available to receive and seal that oring on the sensor

I'm guessing all the aftermarket options are not taper cut for that seal therefore they leak

I assume the aftermarket may leak at both connection points the cover and the sensor I could be wrong on that though

 

Could it be possible to mill a taper cut into the union for that sensor oring

Is that the $600 tool Jack that does the taper?

 

Lathe could do it. I'm sure a crude method could work.

 

I’ve had that Union in one of my wish lists. I also have fittings in a McMaster list for the same.

At the cover you can get a JIC tube to the 12x1.5, that’s easy. What I looked at the receiver end is as surmised, Take a straight Union and modify it.

In the past when I looked at this the recess is very specific to achieve a 15% crush of the o-ring, tapered sides and a very specific depth. Yep, a machine shop could do it, not sure I can with my drill press. It's not a crude method. I believe I got more info in the Parker catalog.

The tool I found was like a multi-angle valve seat cutter, it cuts all three of the critical surfaces at once.

What I was thinking of as an alternative are Swagelok/Yor-lok fittings. Swagelok I believe had the male end that transitions to their tube compression. Alternatively, the cover can be drilled and tapped for 1/2” NPT. NTP can handle the pressures with Stainless.

At the receiver what I have is a Yorloc fitting, tube to 3/8 female npt. It has a 7/8 hex, so there is meat to drill and tap to 12x1.5mm. Then we need the o-ring. One alternative could be if the fitting is damn flat (no design reason for it to be) and try to use a high-pressure flat seal in place of the OE o-ring. It would have to be tried to see if it would seal at elevated pressures and temps.

I think the cutter is actually around $200, not 600. But you need the stability of a mill, not a drill press.

What I have in my notes, it's not the same as the first images, ISO6049 or SAE J1926, Those would not handle the pressures. I believe it’s an ISO 6149.

 

Thinking about some more, I think what I was going to do at the cover end was take one of the hex plugs and drill/tap for 1/8npt with the stainless fitting to tube.