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Remember the temperature also. 200*F wouldn't require de-rating of carbon steel, but it would of stainless (80% of low temp rating, apprx). To me, vibration would also be a big concern.
The Swagelok's that I used for brake hydraulics in the 1/8" size 316 stainless were rated at 6,000psi, Swagelok probably has a temp/strength table on their site. I think steel got you up about another 10% of that. The temp was not a big deal for us but I think they were rated over 1,000F, again not sure on strength degradation thermally. But that was another reason I was looking at stainless tubing.
Your right Mark, aluminum, brass, and copper are out of the picture.
If you need any prototypes for this project let me know. Have lathe - will cut parts. As an 03 owner you know I have an interest as well, though I've changed the ICP enough times that it's almost second nature at this point.
Maybe I missed that part of the conversation, but how do you propose to purge air from the line directly under the sensor where it will surely get trapped?
That's actually simple. My preferred layout would have the tube coming up next to the FICM, sensor threads down. Install the sensor so the o-ring is not engaged.
At this point there could be two ways:
Pull the FICM fuse or relay so the truck does not start. Have someone briefly bump the motor with the key, you don't have to wait for g-plugs. I may be need several attempts as your not cranking like crazy to get high pressure and volume, or else you'll be trying to fined the sensor and connector on the lawn.. Once oil is coming out at the threads, engage the o-ring and tighten down. It should be purged well enough.
The second is engaging the IPR with a jump while using the fender jump, bumping along.
I guess somewhere along the line will come the question is if there is enough people interested in this to share the cost of the cutter if that is the only solution.
I think that would be an acceptable way.
Again, it may be that the flat seal noted in the earlier McMaster listing may work with the sensor and a flat faced adaptor. I just haven't spent more time with this working on other things. I may get he most motivation once I get the motor closer together. But anyone can play with this.
I promise that cutter is not the only solution. I'm not sure what makes you think that taper couldn't be accurately machined on a lathe. It would just take a small boring bar and a little trial and error to get that taper angle correct, assuming a manual machine. And that YorLock fitting from post #26 would be ideal if it weren't so freakin' expensive.
I'm going to dig out my old HPOP cover tomorrow and see what I can come up with that doesn't break the bank. Thanks for the inspiration. Probably gonna obsess over this all night.
And one more thing: I wonder if it's possible to glom the fitting from an old ICP and modify it to use as an adapter on the HPOP cover end.
Tell me what you think of this for the sensor end:
Drill and tap an M12x1.5 female thread in the plug, essentially making it a reducer bushing, and machine the taper. This can all be done on the lathe in a single set-up.
My only concern on the manual lathe is consistency. The compression on that little o-ring is 15%, which means a real tight tolerance. Obviously it’s the ideal method of sealing these otherwise they would go to another sealing method. That combination of fittings would work. I’m used to paying $15-30 for a Swagelok fitting.
I woke up thinking an easier way to purge air out of the setup would be to prefill both the sensor and tube off the truck and assemble, a closed tube will not drain the oil.
That depends on the lathe and the operator, Jack. If you want to make hundreds or thousands of these a cnc would be more efficient anyway. But we're not in production yet, and I don't think erring on the small side could hurt. I'm sure the o-ring could squish a little more without negative effects.
Here's what my measurements show:
It's hard to see in the drawing, but the O.D. of the o-ring as measured on the stem of the ICP is bigger than the mouth of the taper.
Absolutely agree Chris. I haven’t had my hands on a bench lathe for 40 years, I know my limitations..
It's hard to see in the drawing, but the O.D. of the o-ring as measured on the stem of the ICP is bigger than the mouth of the taper.
My only point about the tool is it takes out possible variations and speeds production. Although there’s maybe a dozen of us left owning a ‘03 after Mark telling everyone how crappy our HPOPs are.
You're idea about the plug is a good one, if a machine error occurs it’s a cheap part to replace, not like the entire Swagelok fitting. We reused the Swagelok fitting over and over, just replacing the ferrules for new tubes. I need to hunt down the plugs I have to see the fitment.
My only point about the tool is it takes out possible variations and speeds production. Although there’s maybe a dozen of us left owning a ‘03 after Mark telling everyone how crappy our HPOPs are.
You're idea about the plug is a good one, if a machine error occurs it’s a cheap part to replace, not like the entire Swagelok fitting. We reused the Swagelok fitting over and over, just replacing the ferrules for new tubes. I need to hunt down the plugs I have to see the fitment.
Lol! Add me to that.
I hear yah on the aluminum being no good. Somewhere, (probably in China) someone makes a female 12mm x 1.5 to a male .125 or even .250 adapter. Just got to find it. Or... I guess just make it.
My only point about the tool is it takes out possible variations and speeds production. Although there’s maybe a dozen of us left owning a ‘03 after Mark telling everyone how crappy our HPOPs are.
You're idea about the plug is a good one, if a machine error occurs it’s a cheap part to replace, not like the entire Swagelok fitting. We reused the Swagelok fitting over and over, just replacing the ferrules for new tubes. I need to hunt down the plugs I have to see the fitment.
.... and I was about to sell my 06 and buy an 03 (with an Adrenaline pump of course) for the rocker clips. I hear they are worth their weight in gold!
The aluminum adapter would not last with the temps and pressures.
Chris- with a manual lathe you could go real old school and grind up a high speed steel bit on the proper angle and cut it. Then you would only need to measure your big diameter. i will see if I can find some old tools in my old Kennedy box. The easier way is to have a cutter like Jack first envisioned just like an SAE cutter as this does the O-ring seat as well as the tap drill size for the M12 threads.
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