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I am in the process of replacing my pinion seal. I removed the yoke and old seal, I notice a thin groove near where the seal likely touches, but what is more noticeable is a deep, wide groove; I'm not familiar with the differential assembly, but I suspect these are grooves from the bearing. I wasn't planning to replace the bearing and I didn't have a reason to think the bearing needed to be replaced, but what do these groove marks tell me? Does this mean my bearing needs to be replaced? I suspect I am better off replacing the yoke than trying to use a repair sleeve. This is the first time I've attempted a drive train repair like this, so I am trying to move slowly and learn along the way.
I'll post a picture from my phone in a second post...
The bearing rides against the top part in your picture, not affected by the grooves. If the yoke is still available and you want to spend the money to replace it that would be ideal. You could get by with a sleeve or if you're lucky just replace the seal and hope it doesn't leak.
The bearing rides against the top part in your picture, not affected by the grooves.
I appreciate the response. I may have provided a poor initial explanation though. Notice in the picture the wide brownish-colored ban that is near the top part of the picture. That is the groove I was referring to (The green yarn in the background lines up with it).. There is a thinner, less obvious groove (lower in the picture) that I also mentioned (which probably caused some confusion). I'm mostly concerned about the groove that appears to have been caused by the bearing. I couldn't find much online about bearing groove marks in the pinion yoke.
I understood your first post. Both the upper dark line and the lower groove were likely caused by the seal. The edge uppermost in your picture, disregarding the splines in the middle, pushes against the inner part of the bearing. That is the only part of the yoke that touches the bearing.
I understood your first post. Both the upper dark line and the lower groove were likely caused by the seal. The edge uppermost in your picture, disregarding the splines in the middle, pushes against the inner part of the bearing. That is the only part of the yoke that touches the bearing.
Ok, great. Thank you very much. As I stated, I am not familiar with this assembly, so I wasn't sure how the bearing contacted the yoke. I made a bad assumption that the bearing rode along the OD. Thank you for explaining.
Actually now that I think about it, the yoke doesn't even touch the bearing. There is a crush sleeve in between the yoke and the bearing. But the principle of it is the same. The crush sleeve is so the bearing adjustment can be made correctly. It can be a bit of an art to get the bearing adjusted correctly but you can do it. I'm assuming you have a 90 F-150.
I watched a video on installing a repair sleeve. My concern is that the sleeve didn't appear tall enough to cover the entire height of the shaft. It seemed you're supposed to just put the sleeve where the groove mark is. But in my case I have two marks. I'm not sure if I can use two sleeves,or just try to position one sleeve so it covers both grooves. I'll need to research a bit more...
I've never used one of those sleeves, but of course have heard a lot of them. I looked one up for your application on Rockauto. It looks like they have a higher point on one end for installation, as I'm sure you saw in the video you watched. I think you could only use one and of course the high end would go on first and down as far as it will go. That would cover your bottom groove(as in your picture) and would probably work.
Do you actually have any wear on that top mark? You will probably get more replies tomorrow. Good luck with it.
Actually now that I think about it, the yoke doesn't even touch the bearing. There is a crush sleeve in between the yoke and the bearing. But the principle of it is the same. The crush sleeve is so the bearing adjustment can be made correctly. It can be a bit of an art to get the bearing adjusted correctly but you can do it. I'm assuming you have a 90 F-150.
The yoke does bear on the inner race of the outer pinion bearing-
the crush sleeve goes between the inner races of the outer and
inner pinion bearings, so that you can set the distance between
the inner races, and thus, pinion bearing preload.
The yoke does bear on the inner race of the outer pinion bearing-
the crush sleeve goes between the inner races of the outer and
inner pinion bearings, so that you can set the distance between
the inner races, and thus, pinion bearing preload.
t
I posted this also in the FTE Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case forum. But, based on those wear marks, do you think I can just replace the yoke, or do I also need to replace the bearing? I didn't have any indications the bearing needed to be replaced. Is there a way I can test the bearing now that it is exposed? I imagine replacing this bearing is a complicated process?
If it was my truck I wouldn't replace the bearing unless I thought I had reason to. If you was to replace the bearing, ideally you want to replace the bearing cup(often called the race) also. It may be tough to get the race out of there with the shaft in there.
I wouldn't worry about those grooves. It appears pretty normal. I wouldn't bother replacing the bearing unless you know it's making noise or you have a drive line vibration from it. You can reuse that yoke the way it is, or if you really want to, you can sleeve it or even take it do a driveshaft shop and they can set you up with a replacement if it'll help you sleep at night.
I understood your first post. Both the upper dark line and the lower groove were likely caused by the seal. The edge uppermost in your picture, disregarding the splines in the middle, pushes against the inner part of the bearing. That is the only part of the yoke that touches the bearing.
I've finished with the seal replacement. Now that I've had it apart and back together, I see now that -- just as you stated -- that wide groove I was concerned about was not from a bearing. I ended up reusing the yoke ( a new one is $100+).. The pinion nut was very difficult to remove and reinstall -- I'm not sure if it is supposed to be that hard, but I couldn't get the nut back on with a 90 psi impact wrench; I had to use a 3x torque multiplier to get it retightened. As we got near the old nut position, it clearly become nearly impossible to move the nut, which is where we left it. At this point, if the seal doesn't hold, I'll just take it to a transmission shop in town. Thanks again.
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