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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Need help diagnosing an issue

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Old May 19, 2019 | 05:31 PM
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Need help diagnosing an issue

I have a 82 f100 with 300i6 that wont run if you turn on the headlights. I can run a straight wire from the battery to the coil and it will run with lights on. Iv tested voltage at idle and it puts out 14v. And ground wires look to be all good so im lost what it could be
 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 07:02 PM
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Do you have a set of jumper cables? If you do, take the negative side and hook one end to the battery negative, and clamp the other end to something that is bare metal on the radiator support. There may be a bolt or something that is not too rusty that you could try. See if that makes the problem go away.
 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmymahaffey
I've tested voltage at idle and it puts out 14v.
Quite the unusual scenario.

This 14v you measured: Was that right on the battery posts? For the most useful results, measure right on the posts, not the cable ends.

Was that measured with the lights on or off? Actually, I'd like to see both with the engine running, in case the voltage drops too much when you turn on the lights.

Does the engine die immediately when you turn on the lights? Any sputtering, or just bam and off?
 
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Old May 26, 2019 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmymahaffey
ground wires look to be all good
You can't look at a ground wire or ground connection and determine if it is good.
You would have to measure the resistance or clean the connections.
 
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Old May 26, 2019 | 10:00 PM
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I had this problem with an 80 f150 I had, the high beam switch was causing a direct short and causing the engine to die. As these trucks age, things get corroded and rusted.
 
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Old May 27, 2019 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by billt28
I had this problem with an 80 f150 I had, the high beam switch was causing a direct short and causing the engine to die. As these trucks age, things get corroded and rusted.
But that should have tripped the breaker in the head light switch or burned up the wiring if there was a short to ground not kill the motor.
You had something else going on and moved it the same time you replaced the dimmer.

You are right " As these trucks age, things get corroded and rusted".
Dave ----
 
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Old May 27, 2019 | 12:26 PM
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I don’t like to throw parts at problems either but these trucks have a long history with melting headlight switches, so replacement is not without merit even if it doesn’t fix the issue. Upgrading to the headlight relay setup is also a plus.

As an example of how much goes thru the headlight switch, my horn wouldn’t work unless my headlights were on. Took awhile to figure that out. New switch fixed the issue.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by kr98664
Quite the unusual scenario.

This 14v you measured: Was that right on the battery posts? For the most useful results, measure right on the posts, not the cable ends.

Was that measured with the lights on or off? Actually, I'd like to see both with the engine running, in case the voltage drops too much when you turn on the lights.

Does the engine die immediately when you turn on the lights? Any sputtering, or just bam and off?

Sometimes it will rum a few seconds sputter and die and sometimes it just bam dies. And it sputters with signal lights but wont die
 

Last edited by ctubutis; Jun 1, 2019 at 08:25 PM. Reason: fix quote
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 08:44 PM
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Have you tried the jumper cable test to see if it is a bad ground?
Is it charging? Volts at idle and 2000 rpm with nothing on then try with the lights on.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jun 2, 2019 | 12:54 PM
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If the headlights and other lighting up front does not have a good ground, when you turn the lights on the electric will "search" for any place to find a return path to ground. Sometimes this will end up being other circuits in the truck. It may be the ignition circuit in your case, which kills the spark to the engine when the headlights are turned on.
 
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