I couldn’t find any posts about this. I have a spark plug(#5 cylinder) that broke off ABOVE the nut. This is an aftermarket plug. The nut has been rounded off after several months of trying to remove. I’ve tried JB Welding a socket to the nut. Even the strongest JB(about 3400 lbs) didnt hold. Before spending the quoted $3,000 to have the head pulled, I was considering sticking a punch down there to try to break the porcelain a little or push the porcelain down so i can access the inside of the nut to try twisting it out. I know I’m risking having pieces fall inside, but I figured if the head to get pulled if I cant get the plug out then why not chance it. I’m just wondering if anyone else has had this issue or has used a punch in this manner and might have some tips or advice other than “take it to a shop”. This is on the 5.4 in an ‘06 Navigator. Thanks in advance folks

 

Maybe something like this would work?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...001/22980117-p

 

Tried those too. They came the closest to working but still didnt get the job done. In fact, I currently have one on the plug as I type this. I slapped some JB on it and I’m going to try to get it out In a couple days. I’ve tried JB weld on it back in February but the outside temps were about -20. So as you may be aware, JB dont work in those temps.

 

This Lisle tool is made to remove broken spark plugs from the Triton engine. It's a rental so you don't actually have to buy it.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...ver/489173_0_0

 

If I remember correctly, this tool threads in using the the threads that the spark plug uses. But since my spark plug broke off above the nut, the threads aren’t useable. Am I wrong about this tool? I used a rental tool last time I had a plug break off below the threads, but I can’t remember if it was this same tool.

 

I’m having a hard time imagining what is broken off in the head, the only problems I’ve had with the 5.4 3 valve is the broken plug in the head, and use the lisle tool, I did have to pull the head off one f150 that another shop had attempted to remove and screwed it up so bad it had to be driven out from the chamber side. I haven’t seen any problems with the threaded part breaking off, even with the aftermarket plugs. Got any pics of the piece that broke off? Then maybe I can offer more advice.

 

I dont have any pics at the moment. But the porcelain above the nut has broken off. So the nut and everything below the nut is still in there. The electrode snapped in half too. The porcelain and electrode both broke off flush at the top of the nut.

 

I was considering maybe putting a perfect size pipe down in there, sticking a welding rod down inside the pipe and attempting to weld the pipe to the nut, the drill a hole through the top of the pipe with a steel rod going through it(to make it into a T), then twist it out. Im scared that I may end up welding the pipe and nut right to the head though. I tried the JB Weld again with a socket but once again it just slipped off. I’m getting desperate here. I’ve been working on this stupid plug for over 6 months. And I’ve spent a few hundred bucks having different shops try to get it out.

 

That tool is supposed to remove the porcelain in one piece and after that happens you can use an easy out on the base of the spark plug.

 

It doesn’t thread in to pull the porcelain out? If not, ill be picking one up next weekend for sure

 

This is what I’m dealing with. That’s how badly rounded the nut is

 

Ugh ..... you said you were working on #5 cylinder? That should have pretty good access. Is it still a two piece plug? I think I would try an extended drill bit through the center, enough to get an EZ Out bit down into the threaded portion of the plug. Look at one of the other plugs you've pulled out and find the best size drill bit you'll need. You may very well (almost guaranteed...) break the top from the bottom of the plug, and end up using that Lisle removal tool to get the lower portion out. But looking at that picture, you got nothing to lose. I wouldn't bother pulling the head off that motor though. Get you a new rebuilt crate motor and drop it in there (unless the rest of the truck isn't worth a new motor either...).

Long drill bits.... Extended length drill bits

Drill Hog Easy Outs ....

 

This is an aftermarket spark plug. I already had to deal with the headache of the plugs breaking before and thought I was done with that. Firestone put this one in and I’m thinking maybe a gorilla tightened it. I do have a setup with a few different pieces to drill a hole in the plug, but with the electrode still being in there it has made it a bit difficult. I’ve made a small little dimple until I hit the electrode. I have been able to push the porcelain down just a hair....maybe 1/16”....by using a punch and a hammer. But if it does happen to break and I can get the lisle tool in there then I would be ecstatic.

I was just looking at the price of a rebuilt motor compared to the price of pulling the heads. The motor would cost about $300 more...which I may be willing to handle. It’s in an ‘06 Navigator that is still in excellent shape and has no issues other than this.

 

That's definitely worth because you end up with a motor with virtually zero miles on it and you get a warranty.