My 2006 F250 has been acting strange while charging No charge at idle, but when i am on the road for 5 minutes starts charging,
I did some research and they tend to toward alternator or regulator issues. so i ordered a 140a alternator.

DMM says 12.2v on each battery standing voltage start and still each battery only 12.6v
110 degree water been running 5 minutes stays at 12v never bumps up

load test the batteries no drop at all (both are good)
removed both batteries place the batteries Driver side on charger taking 15.5 amp and charging
will charge the passenger side after i charge the drivers side

This 110A alternator was replaced last year just after i bought the truck as i was gong for a 600 mile drive to AR batteries reasonably new.
had no issues last year with the drive battery wise.

the intercooler turbo hose was the only issues pain in the neck (get yourself a spare and the clamps ) turns out my hose was bad due to a bad stripped clamp (arrg) last year

anyway back to the charging issues once again headed to AR
load test Check OK
charge check Nothing
ground check OK
battery cable checked OK

step up into the engine bay look down and the 3 wire connector was not attached to the alternator ? (What the XXXX)
absolutely nothing has changed since last year except i had the truck service by a ford dealer Arrg.

so Hum ok find the old alternator check orientation of the connector and guess what the tab is broken off
What the XXXX so i push it in and test same issue
turn it off and sure enough the connector has moved out
well at least we know the issue!

what weird is it was charging while driving
do you think the disconnected field wire (3 pin connector) < assuming :>)
will have messed up the alternator since it has been disconnected for an unknown time

thinking about this maybe with all the mucking around with the intercooler hose got the connector broken off as the alternator may have been removed and may have tugged it (just a wild guess or at some time during the intercooler issues.

need to find the 3 pin alternator plug for the stock alternator )
any ideas?

If / when I replace the connector and tab holds in place will it begin working ?
So what do you think
thanks
Recoush

 

There's only one sure way to find out. Replace it or jury rig it long enough for a test.

 

I got lost 25% of the way in.

The 6.0 uses just two of the pins in the connector, the center one is not used. Aftermarket replacement pigtails can be found at any parts store.

 

Worked on the Battery charging behavior today.
The 3 pin plug (only outside two are used ( one side is always 12 and the other side is 12 with key ON)
confirmed the plug wiring works.

next i tried the plug in the old alternator original this way i don't have to remove the existing alternator :>)
figured i would jury rig tieraps or something (ordered a new plug from rock auto)

What i found out: This particular connector is a (watertight) plug has to be really Pushed in until it clicks!
Really have to push in with an attitude then it will lock apparently the Tab (is built into part of the alternator)

My reaction was dismay but OK, time to test
start truck up and 12v 2 minutes later at Idle jumps up to 14V (Yeah)

So in retrospect if no charge at idle check to make sure that 3 pin connector is locked into the Alternator (really have to push to Click and Lock) at least True for the (110 and 140amp )
looks like this bullet has passed me for now!

best guess it was disconnected during the Intercooler hose repair or got pulled out?
regards
Recoush

 

With a 110 and to some extent 140, the voltage will not be far from 12.0 while the glow plugs are on.

 

Love youre videos that how i knew what to check 10 Stars keep them videos coming

 

Thanks, glad you found the issue.

 

Another issue, over the winter months / spring had a misfire on 3 and 6 comes and goes.

At the time did not know i had a charging issue.
After plugging and pushing in the Field wire (locked) and Adding a 1/0 Ground wire,

black 1./0 marine grade cable 26" From the Engine block (drivers side) used the 8mm Bolt just under the head holds the fuel line in place? (top most outer in the video)
by the way a 20mm bolt is too long here had to grind. better to get a 8MM x 1.25 x15mm bolt for this location and bolted the other end to the drivers frame rail wheel wheel side..

Since doing this have not had any more Misfire and Zero codes (Stiction or too low 12V ,Coincidence? FICM was always 48 and now 48.5!
Thanks again for the detailed . battery cable data and videos From TooManyToys may have resolved that issue too!
adding the 1/0 from battery to battery next
In for a penny in for a pound :>)
thanks again
Recoush