Question about the FAN
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,540
Likes: 2,032
From: North Texas
The clutched part will be free, but have some drag when healthy. When kaput, will just free spin.
If the nut spins, that is bad.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 855
Likes: 5
From: Central Oregon
The nut does not move and it has some resistance I was just able to freely spin the fan left or right and it never seemed to back up or down. Sounds like I am good to go!
Driving to up to Oregon tomorrow morning and just trying to dot my t's and cross my i's
Thanks once again.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
The nut does not move and it has some resistance I was just able to freely spin the fan left or right and it never seemed to back up or down. Sounds like I am good to go!
Driving to up to Oregon tomorrow morning and just trying to dot my t's and cross my i's
Thanks once again.
Driving to up to Oregon tomorrow morning and just trying to dot my t's and cross my i's
Thanks once again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,540
Likes: 2,032
From: North Texas
I am in Texas and need the A/C most times due to humidity...so fan stays. 6.0 fan drops rotational weight and will free up some HP and TQ. Plus easier on the water pump too!
Long ago I saw dyno test with and without a plastic fan on the GMT800 trucks (yes, I own one!) Over an unlocked clutch, the power gains were about 6rwhp. Nothing much. Over a locked clutch it was 21rwhp!
I went from the steel one to HO plastic on my F150, it rev'd a tad easier but sure does cool better due to superior blade design.
Long ago I saw dyno test with and without a plastic fan on the GMT800 trucks (yes, I own one!) Over an unlocked clutch, the power gains were about 6rwhp. Nothing much. Over a locked clutch it was 21rwhp!
I went from the steel one to HO plastic on my F150, it rev'd a tad easier but sure does cool better due to superior blade design.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 47
From: Eagle River, AK
On my last OBS Powerstroke, I removed the fan completely. Ran it that way for years up here in Alaska. Then sold the truck.
The temp gauge (although not a real reliable source) did not really change much at all.
I am considering removing the one on my current truck.
The temp gauge (although not a real reliable source) did not really change much at all.
I am considering removing the one on my current truck.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
I ran mine a year or so without a fan as well. Only time it started to get hot was sitting in traffic in the summer heat. Aside from that, it was all good. I did put it back on, but they'll work fine without one for regular driving or in cooler climates. Not sure I'd want to be towing without one, though, especially in hot weather.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 394
Likes: 1
From: DFW
Towing here in Tx w/o a fan would get the trans pretty hot I would think. Be like going back to the stock cooler from the 6.0 cooler, trans would overheat very easily
in traffic.
Maybe go electric while in traffic would be a solution to removing the belt driven fan?
in traffic.
Maybe go electric while in traffic would be a solution to removing the belt driven fan?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,540
Likes: 2,032
From: North Texas
Do most of you guys not have A/C? 
I understand our friends WAY up north, but it is almost always on in my vehicles to remove the damned humidity first, temperature control is just a bonus. No airflow over the condenser at 0mph will cause the high side switch to trip killing the system until pressure drops. Once moving, you are fine. Even 20mph has plenty of volume not to go too high.
Just do a 6.0 fan if you are concerned about that extra bit of power. Less rotational mass equal less power loss. Simple physics...like why trucks on Alcoas yield faster 0-60mph times and higher fuel economy numbers. I am doing a 6.0 fan when I find a deal on one, this metal one is hilariously heavy.
I understand our friends WAY up north, but it is almost always on in my vehicles to remove the damned humidity first, temperature control is just a bonus. No airflow over the condenser at 0mph will cause the high side switch to trip killing the system until pressure drops. Once moving, you are fine. Even 20mph has plenty of volume not to go too high. Just do a 6.0 fan if you are concerned about that extra bit of power. Less rotational mass equal less power loss. Simple physics...like why trucks on Alcoas yield faster 0-60mph times and higher fuel economy numbers. I am doing a 6.0 fan when I find a deal on one, this metal one is hilariously heavy.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
I'm not saying everyone should run around without a fan, or that you should even try it if you live in Texas. If you read what I said above I clearly said it would "work fine for regular driving in cooler climates". I'd say that eliminates both towing, and Texas.
You really think you'll see a noticeable increase in MPG with Alcoas?
You really think you'll see a noticeable increase in MPG with Alcoas?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,540
Likes: 2,032
From: North Texas
Gotcha, must have missed it.
100% do on making economy go up if I swapped to Alcoas, or anyone else My steel wheels are ~40lbs each on the dually, plus about 45lbs per tire. I am going to run six, use some ratty ones for the inners. If I can even drop 15lbs/wheel that is 90lbs of tire weight gone.
My dead 6.4 I had since new came with a hair smaller than 35". Next set were 35" MTs. I wore them out, then to 35" AT. Truck was noticeably quicker, economy went up enough to measure. MT to AT was a drop in weight of about 17lbs/wheel as I recall on a SRW. You see also sports cars go from cast aluminum to forged aluminum. Stronger and lighter. Hell, all the over the road trucks I see here are on aluminum rims.
100% do on making economy go up if I swapped to Alcoas, or anyone else My steel wheels are ~40lbs each on the dually, plus about 45lbs per tire. I am going to run six, use some ratty ones for the inners. If I can even drop 15lbs/wheel that is 90lbs of tire weight gone.
My dead 6.4 I had since new came with a hair smaller than 35". Next set were 35" MTs. I wore them out, then to 35" AT. Truck was noticeably quicker, economy went up enough to measure. MT to AT was a drop in weight of about 17lbs/wheel as I recall on a SRW. You see also sports cars go from cast aluminum to forged aluminum. Stronger and lighter. Hell, all the over the road trucks I see here are on aluminum rims.
Senior User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
I would think that any MPG improvement going from steel rims to lighter alloys would be nearly impossible to tell on our trucks. The improvement factor would relate to whatever the weight savings would be. So, say, a 9000 pound truck saving, say, 200 pounds due to lighter wheels would realize about a two percent weight savings. It would be like having an extra adult passenger or not. I doubt this could be measured in terms of mileage gain, especially if the truck is used mostly on the highway.
Now, lighter alloy wheels make more of a difference on a car, but in terms of improved handling due to less un-sprung weight. Sports cars can benefit significantly with better handling due to less un-sprung weight. Heavy duty trucks not so much.
Now, lighter alloy wheels make more of a difference on a car, but in terms of improved handling due to less un-sprung weight. Sports cars can benefit significantly with better handling due to less un-sprung weight. Heavy duty trucks not so much.
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