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I’ve pulled my motor and I have a quick question regarding what vacuum lines I can cap since I’m eliminating the egr and thermacator. I included a few pics to help aid.
you asked this same question a month ago, and it was answered, post #2, #9, #15, and your still trying to remove EGR good luck getting it to run good, you will be back with new thread trying to get it to run right, you will have a check engine light on all the time, only question will be is it EGR being removed, or something worse, or each day you can check codes to see what new one popped up that wasn't there the day before, or the day before that, or the day before that, you see where this is going, and you still want to remove it, so why even ask, just do what you want, and hope it runs at all, or get new ECU and program everything out, sorry for the rant, but good grief!
you asked this same question a month ago, and it was answered, post #2, #9, #15, and your still trying to remove EGR good luck getting it to run good, you will be back with new thread trying to get it to run right, you will have a check engine light on all the time, only question will be is it EGR being removed, or something worse, or each day you can check codes to see what new one popped up that wasn't there the day before, or the day before that, or the day before that, you see where this is going, and you still want to remove it, so why even ask, just do what you want, and hope it runs at all, or get new ECU and program everything out, sorry for the rant, but good grief!
Im not removing the EGR setup completely I’m going to do what was recommended, leave the electrical connection and the vacuum line that goes to the EGR hooked up. I plan on blocking the hole in the intake with a plate sandwiched in between like suggested.
I was told to block off vacuum lines and simpily asking for clarification. I’ve never done this before and learning as I go trying to do my best and seek advice along the way, not get bashed by more knowledgeable members. Thanks
Really all you can get away with removing this thermactor air injection, smog pump, and cats. Maybeee EGR if you install the valve backwards or use a piece of tin between it.
I believe the tab tad solenoids need to stay hooked up, but just plug any lines that went to the smog pump or diverter valves/
Anything else you do will cause it to run like crap and/ or waste your time.
Why remove EGR? Not much performance issues. All it does is lowers cylinder temps. That does decrease emissions, but also affects what you can set your timing at.
I'm removing the thermactor on my 97 RV and putting on heads.
The thermactor on an RV without catalytic converter does almost nothing, only heats the O2 sensor off idle to 190 degrees. There are reliable sources that say it runs closed loop during part of that range, so might run lean with upsteam air during that. Truck may be more complicated with cats. So possibilities of these might affect ecu operation.
Thanks guys, I’ll leave the EGR setup intact and get a new hose for under the intake connector and will leave well enough alone with the other vacuum lines. I did delete the smog pump and thermactor so will plug what needs plugged. I did remove both canisters on wheel well so sounds like I need to reinstall 1 of those for a vacuum?
Thanks guys, I’ll leave the EGR setup intact and get a new hose for under the intake connector and will leave well enough alone with the other vacuum lines. I did delete the smog pump and thermactor so will plug what needs plugged. I did remove both canisters on wheel well so sounds like I need to reinstall 1 of those for a vacuum?
Believe so because the hvac and cruise control run on vacuum. The level of vacuum fluctuates when driving, so a reserve is needed.
Here’s a few pics, I’ve cleaned, power washed And painted a lot of parts and areas to get it more presentable since these pics were taken. I’m on to replacing gaskets, water pump, timing chain and oil pump now.
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