I started on my rear main seal replacement on my 1990 F150 302 automatic last night I have the transmission pulled and I figured while I’m at it and it’s easily accessible I would replace and remove the EGR and smog pump items I had purchased plugs for the back of the heads from jegs that’s listed for a 302. The plugs look much larger than the bolts I removed from the crossover pipe. Is this the wrong part or can I put the stock bolts back into their heads or should I get shorter bolts?

Here is a pic of the plugs I purchased

 

The plugs don't go in the bolt holes that hold the crossover pipe on the back of the engine they go in the larger holes that feed the pipe, this should be obvious once the pipe is off.
Don't delete the EGR that isn't part of the Air injection system and cannot be deleted without setting codes.

 

so I should leave the crossover pipe bolted on? I Thought it had to come off but maybe not

i see where they are.....stupid me

 

Hardware store bolts are holding fine on my truck.

 

first glance those look like a type of heli-coil, with 2 thread types? 5/8-11 external, 7/16-14 internal, and the slot in top to screw in, never seen/used plugs like that. make sure you clean the threads out on heads, before trying to screw those in, a lot of carbon build-up could make for PITA to get started

 

I have a couple of spark plugs in ours

 

 

Got the smog pump and crossover tube with the cans out today. Took off the egr on the intake as well. Everything unbolted great.




I do have a few questions : I included pics in above post


PIC #1


the egr had had a metal tube that went to a hose under the intake. When I took off the egr it was so brittle it just fell apart. Do I need to cap off something under the intake? Do I need to remove the intake?


PIC #3/4

Do I remove all these vacuum lines and what do I need to do with the things they do into?




PIC #2

what should I be doing with this plug?


Sorry for the questions, I’m sure they’re simple things to most of ya, just never felt with this before.


Thanks!!

 

What cans did you take out?
Pic1. Yes you need to plug the EGR tube under the upper intake, it will need to come off to do that.
Pic2. Cut a piece of sheet metal and sandwich it between the EGR valve and intake with a bit of RTV solicone when you bolt it back on. Remove the remnant of EGR tube then plug the electrical and vacuum line back in.
Pic3/4. Leave it all as is. Plug the far ends of those vacuum lines where they connected to the air check valves that you removed.

 

I removed the coffee cans on the passenger side wheel well and hoses that were attached to smog pump.

As as for the EGR valve on intake I was just going to put a block off plate on in place of valve. Do I just leave connector undone or take off other end off valve and plug it so not exposed?

Should I get an MIL eliminator for O2 sensor?

Thanks

 

One larger canister was an intake filter for the air pump, the smallest one was an output muffler for the air pump, both of those can go. The Juice can looking thing is a vacuum canister it needs to stay.

Yeah I know but I'm suggesting you put it back on and reconnect the electrical and vacuum, that is the best way to disable EGR without setting too many codes.

No. If you go that far you may as well put a carb on it because you will be crippling the EFI system.

 

I mean this as nicely, but sternly as it sounds, but not trying to be ugly, you need to STOP! and re-read Conanski's post #2, and #9, because you have 'opened a can of worms that you will not EVER be able to fish with' you will be lucky if your truck will even start much less run at all.
If you put in a MIL eliminator for O2 sensor, your air/fuel rato will never be right and your truck will run like crap, our trucks are OBDI and only have one O2 sensor before the catalytic converter that tells ecu/pcm what the air/fuel ratio is to keep the truck running properly, eliminating O2 and you only get one air/fuel ratio for all throttle positions and that is not a good thing, think 14.7 a/f ratio at WOT, for too long could start a melt down of your motor(far fetched...yes!..but murphy's law applies also)

 

As stated by a few others, you can't just go deleting these things with the stock ECU and no way to tune around the changes made and how they will effect what the engine sees and how it reacts to these changes. If you truly want to be able to delete the EGR, smog pump, etc. then one easy way is to replace the stock ECU with a modern ECU that is tunable and doesn't require those items to be present to function properly. You'll see in our signature that we offer a plug and play solution that works with the stock harness and will allow you to accomplish what you're trying to do without any negative side effects.

 

I appreciate the info, this is why I’m asking. I’ve seen video and read other posts that the egr setup can totally be deleted but obviously not getting all the information presented.

So bolt the EGR setup back onto the uppper intake and sandwich a cut piece of metal in there like Conaski stated, plug the ends of tubes where it connected under the intake and plug the vacuum line and electrical connection back in?

I do plan on on still using an O2 sensor, I purchased an off road pipe from jegs and will still utilize that.

As for the 2 cans on the wheel well and smog pump they’ve been removed as well as the crossover tube in back of head and holes in heads have been plugged.

The vaccuum lines going to the Tab and Tad I should just plug. Now should I plugs those at end of the long line or can I remove that and plug where the come into the solenoids and eliminate that mess of vacuum line?


Again thanks!

 

When I did the motor swap in my '90 I deleted most of that vacuum harness that wraps around the back engine, with the air injection system gone most of it is redundant. The only things that need to remain are vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator which can be direct from the vacuum tree and to the vacuum canister on the passenger fender which will feed the HVAC controls. If you don't have a vacuum resovoir on the HVAC the fan will switch from windshield to floor every time you put your foot in it(low vacuum).