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97 4.2L
Problem: Car starts at PARK on and off. Car starts at NEUTRAL always.
My diagnosis was faulty neutral switch. I am trying to remove the mounting nut. As I turn the nut, the range selection lever also moves. Is there a trick to fix the lever?
Thank you.
If you don't have anything to hold it let the lever move, it will only go so far and stop, then the nut will loosen. Set the e-brake and chock the wheels first since it will be shifting out of Park.
Completed the replacement.Turned the ignition key but no crank. Moved to NEUTRAL. engine cranks. What the heck. I remembered post 5 of the above linked thread. But I already checked the set of Torx head screws. I took another look at the area near the ignition switch. I found another set of Torx screws directly above the ones I checked earlier. These upper ones were so loose that I could tighten with fingers.
Lesson learned. Before replacing neutral switch (transmission range sensor), check the upper Torx screws. If replacing neutral switch is necessary, loosen the nut initially in PARK, just the first half turn. Then shift to NEUTRAL and complete the process.
The steering column has a couple of issues that might affect the shift cable to transmission sync. The early model column shift tube and shaft were prone to breakage. Not sure what years though. The 2 shift tube nylon bushings would wear leaving the tube sloppy within the clamps. The shift tube clamp screws could also loosen over time. The shift tube also had the control arm, which moves the shift cable on the end of it, that the torx screws could loosen over time. When installing the neutral safety switch at the transmission there is a mark on the switch body and a mark on the white tube that slides over the trans shifter shaft that has to be in line. The transmission lever is set to neutral before connecting the cable then the adjustment is done after cable is attached.
The key to properly diagnosing the issue is often to check the shift lever for excessive play or "slop". If it's sloppy, the DTR sensor is not the issue; rather, it's a problem with the mechanical linkage. The Torx screws and the shift tube bushings are the usual suspects.
The key to properly diagnosing the issue is often to check the shift lever for excessive play or "slop". If it's sloppy, the DTR sensor is not the issue; rather, it's a problem with the mechanical linkage. The Torx screws and the shift tube bushings are the usual suspects.
projectSHO.
Regarding the slop, because the slop deteriorated gradually over years, the slop was normal to me. I consider myself lucky to have read your post before I started. Though my repair attempt didn't work, because I remembered your post, I was able to find the right Torx screws and recover from the blunder. Thank you so much.