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I have a 302 year 1973 I thought it was hydraulic lifter, but I don't think it is so. It seems like the rocker arm is tightened completely, and there are no adjustment options.
It's been a long time since I worked on a 302 but, I do remember one type of rocker stud that was used called a positive stop rocker stud. It isn't a typical "fully" adjustable rocker stud. Ford designed it to be tightened down until it stopped. This worked for the stock valve train. When you go with different cam, springs and rockers, you need to change to a fully threaded stud.
If you have the stock valve train with the positive stop studs and you have a loose rocker that you can't tighten, you probably have a bad lifter or flat cam lobe.
Just AS all you guys told mee it vás hydralic lifters, what do you recommend me to do take the lifters out then take the piston out of the lifter clean it indside and put it together again, and then use the old lifters. Or do i have to buy new lifters. If i have to buy new what type and with are the Best.
Those lifters are usually adjusted by getting them to zero gap , this is done while turning the pushrod with your fingers while tightening the nut .
Tighten the nut down until you can just feel resistance on the pushrod while turning with your fingers .
Then give the nut a further 1 turn to put the plunger in the lifter under tension .
Do not tighten the nut until the plunger is right down in the lifter .
What seaves46 said. If the nut bottoms out before preload is achieved then the pressed in stud could be slightly pulled out of the head. This extra length can cause the adjuster nut to bottom out and not put enough preload on the lifter causing a tick. The older heads are notorious for this. Easy way to check is lay a straight edge across the tops of all the studs to see if they are the same. If this is the case it will require machine work which can get costly and sometimes it is cheaper to buy a set of aluminum heads.
What seaves46 said. If the nut bottoms out before preload is achieved then the pressed in stud could be slightly pulled out of the head. This extra length can cause the adjuster nut to bottom out and not put enough preload on the lifter causing a tick. The older heads are notorious for this. Easy way to check is lay a straight edge across the tops of all the studs to see if they are the same. If this is the case it will require machine work which can get costly and sometimes it is cheaper to buy a set of aluminum heads.
Had that happen on a Chev 350 with pressed in studs. The engine had 250K miles on it, I wasn't about to spend any money on it. Hit the offending stud with a ball peen hammer a couple times, it went back in. Ran it that way for another 2 - 3 years.
What seaves46 said. If the nut bottoms out before preload is achieved then the pressed in stud could be slightly pulled out of the head. This extra length can cause the adjuster nut to bottom out and not put enough preload on the lifter causing a tick. The older heads are notorious for this. Easy way to check is lay a straight edge across the tops of all the studs to see if they are the same. If this is the case it will require machine work which can get costly and sometimes it is cheaper to buy a set of aluminum heads.
Can you explail this again .? Is it on the top of the push rod i have to lay a straight edge, before i put on the rockers
Based on the limited view in the pictures those look to be positive stop studs, basically non-adjustable. Which means you could have one of several possible issues, in no particular order, bad lifter, flat cam, pushed out rocker stud, or bad push rod. Several options on fix, but it all depends on money and intended purpose.
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