First let me say I know it's illegal to delete emission related items such as egr systems..... so is driving over the speed limit and Jay walking. I also know it is bad for the environment......so is plastic bottles, trash bags, etc. I also understand what the egr does and understand that there is probably no performance gain and possibly a loss in mpg and maybe pinging issues due to timing.

I am installing a mostly stock (tfs stage 1 cam) 1997 explorer 5.0 external egr engine in one of my f100's. This engine will have long tube headers (yes...I know it's got p heads and my cheapo long tubes fit perfectly with spark plugs/wires.... First id rather not try to weld in a egr tube fitting/connector in my new headers even if I could find one, which I think may be a problem. Second i like the idea of cleaning up the engine a bit and have read on another site that you can remove the huge elbow at the upper intake and install the throttle body directly to the upper intake in place of the elbow.
This brings up a few questions for me. Does anyone have first hand experience with an explorer 5.0 egr delete or know for sure what issues may arise like poor performance/mileage, pinging, etc?? Also for those who have done this is a computer flash necessary? Thanks in advance

 

Hello Jake,
Sorry I can not help you with this question as I am in the exact position as you on the engine swap. I am installing a mostly stock 5.0 (I got out of a 1998 Eddy Bauer Explorer) in my 54 F-100 and am wondering what I can do with the EGR piping. I also have shorty headers that I don't want to have a bung installed. It looks pretty clean as it is now. I have been thinking of cutting a cover plate and gasket to install over the EGR opening on the Elbow. I am not sure how the PCM will like that but maybe it will work. I stripped all the wiring, modules and sensors from the Explorer. I then eliminated everything I did not want to use and the wiring to those components. I now have a basic wire harness to run the engine (MAYBE) including the Ignition switch, Pats System and the Fuel shutoff inertia switch. I am getting close to trying the first start of the engine. (With-in the next month anyway) If I get any information on eliminating the EGR I will let you know. Here in Florida there are no emission rules to deal with so if the thing will run without the EGR connected, then all the better. I am interested in any and all information on this subject and how your project is progressing.

Bob Paxton

 

Bob, since that first post i have decided to run the egr as is and find a connector to weld in for the tube to attach to the header. LOL...finding the connector was a chore itself. But I did after many failed attempts. I am going to post a picture of the Ford part number and the actual connector for anyone else that needs to do this. It was about $25 from a Ford dealer.
My 5.0 & trans is from a 97 so no pats. I also have the complete engine/trans harness/ECU with O2 sensors, etc. I do not have anything electrical from the explorer such as the instrument panel, etc. I do have the steering column, radiator, condensor, shroud. I know I'll have to make a custom harness with at least some wires to even give it ignition power from the key to start it. Not sure if it will run or not. I'm still cleaning/painting everything right now.
It would seem that this would be/was a pretty popular swap into these f100's. I've spent a lot of time researching this and it seems that there just isn't much detailed information out there about it, especially the wiring/electrical. I've read about a guy who done this with a Volvo car iirc. He did give some info on the wiring but not very good explanations and his situation was a bit different obviously. I feel like I'm just winging it with the wiring with only a generic wiring diagram to go by. Guess that's why I've been putting it off so long, lol. Great to hear from someone else doing this though...misery loves company...just kidding. Now I'm anxious to see how yours turns out. I might should have put this post in another forum such as engine builds/mods or something.?

 

I am interested in the Ford part number and picture of the EGR connector you mentioned. That information will be very much appreciated as I would like to keep the EGR system in place if the proper connection can be made without too much aggravation. My old EGR valve pipe with the rubber hoses is rusted and broken but it might be usable with a little welding to add an extension that will reach the top of the header. I will check out the part as soon as you post the information.
I will keep you posted as to my engine swap progress.

 

So on the back of the upper intake there is that little electrical box that has a connector that goes to it and has 2 vacuum lines going from that to the egr tube...I was thinking about plugging the lines to see what happened. If anything you could probably get it tuned out. This is the route im going on my 97

 

I am not sure how things will work by plugging those two lines. I think you will have to plug off the EGR valve at the intake elbow also. I am not real thrilled about drilling into my header to make the EGR connection but I am also not sure if by NOT doing it, what will be the effect of the information from the 02 sensor. The metal pipe from the EGR valve that connects to the header on my engine is broken off at the area of the ribs. I will have to get a tube welded to it to extend down to the header. Not sure how all this will work. If anyone has some ideas for this connection or eliminating it all together, please stand up.
Thanks to all with information.

 

Disabling EGR on an OBD2 engine will set codes and a check engine light and there is nothing that can be done to address that except with a tuner, forget about all those snake oil recipes on the Net they won't help with this type of EGR system(DPFE).
But that is the worst of it, EGR is only active at low engine loads, it's off at idle and under heavy throttle so it's not likely the driver would notice a performance impact from the drivers seat except for that light shining in his eyes.

 

Ok, got the pictures uploaded for my second post. Connector works perfect. Also got a new egr tube off eBay for about $20. Also works great and matches factory tube dimensions perfect. Now I just need to weld an extension (pipe) into the header to bring the new connector in line with the tube. Not as bad as I thought after I found the right parts.

 

I assume this connector threads into the EGR tube that previously connected to the exhaust manifold. Then an extension has to thread onto this connector and extended down to the header and be welded at that point. The EGR tube seems to be stainless steel. Should the extension pipe be of the same material? Should a bung be welded into the header and then the extension tube be threaded into the bung? I will check E-Bay for a EGR tube since mine has broken off at the ribs.

 

I Guess you could do it several different ways but what I may do is weld a piece of pipe to the header, then weld the connector onto the other end of the pipe. This connector has metric 22mm x 1.5 threads. I may cut the connector in half at the "nut" part in the center and weld it to the pipe like that just to make it look better. As far as welding in a bung , if you can match the threads up on each end of an extension pipe that would work great but I've found that can be a real challenge so I'll just weld the extension directly to the header and probably the connector half directly to the other end of the extension pipe. I'll update once I weld it in.

 

Today I managed to come up with a pipe to connect the Ford connector to the header. I used a piece of tubing i had in my shop and the factory nut that came off of my original egr tube that was cracked. I used a flaring tool on one end of the tube to match the Ford connector flaring. After drilling the hole in the header I mocked everything up ready to weld and it should work great. Pics below.

After flaring tubing. Factory original egr tube nut.

Perfect fit against the Ford connector

Mocked up ready to weld to the header. A tight fit is critical here! And yes...i drilled the hole in the header first!

 

Finally got the pipe welded up to the header. Not the prettiest weld I've ever done (actually butt ugly) but penetration was great and should last as long as the headers themselves. Didn't get a pic yet, have the headers hanging up after painting them. So this pretty much ends my saga on the egr tube to header connection, lol. I'm probably gonna start a detailed thread soon on swapping an Explorer 5.0/4r70w into a 67-72/79 F100.

 

i have a 97 mountaineer,{parts suv now} it has the good gt40 heads,did yours have them,toss the merc around easy,good motor,

 

Mine has the gt40p heads. Yes IMHO great heads for mild street 5.0. My 97 5.0 is all stock except for tfs1 cam and long tube headers. These are the best of the older 5.0 engines IMO. Stock flat top pistons with no dish and 4 valve reliefs.