Then you need to make sure the narrow vane of the stator also corresponds to plug wire #1. The computer needs to know where cylinder #1 is so the injectors are fired at the right time. With everything else going on you need to get everything lined up.

 

Isn't that automatically indexed with the Rotor?

 

The issue comes in when someone wires the plug wires to compensate for not having the distributor stabbed in the correct position. So to your point if the OP does correctly position the distributor body so the rotor lines up to the #1 cylinder cap position everything should be good.

 

Rog... good to know.

I've not had to work on one of those distributors yet.

Thanks

 

ok so I removed all the wires from cap when setting the distributor in, I got towards if I turn to much to the left or right it'll start to choke out... I wasn't sure if I should put the marker on the balancer at 0 or 10btc. I put it 10btc....am I in the right direction?

 

rla2005, posted this, it would help
How to set the timing on an EFI Ford

 

If its running now, you are on the right track.
Sounds like it is time to get a timing light on it and time it to 10 degrees before (or advanced), and give it a test drive!

 

First thing to do with any engine is check/verify/determine true TDC. TDC for #1 cylinder at compression is the mechanical "zero point" upon which everything ignition timing related is based. The easiest way is to use a tool called a piston stop. It replaces the spark plug in the #1 cylinder. The engine is rolled over by hand in both directions till it stops and a mark made on the damper. Exactly halfway between these two marks on the damper is the true TDC regardless of any existing timing marks on the damper.

When the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, the damper pointer should hopefully be pointing to the existing "0" or TDC mark on the damper. If there are no marks on the damper you can make your own or buy a flourescent self-adhesive tape that is marked from TDC out to 40° or so. This is important to check because with age the outer heavy damper inertia ring will tend to slip off axis due to the rubber deterioration. The timing marks will no longer correspond with the true TDC. Very common and causes much headscratching.

When the #1 piston is at TDC compression, and the damper pointer is at "0" on the damper, the distributor is ready to be stabbed. The #1 terminal on the distributor cap is basically arbitrary, whatever terminal the rotor is pointing at can be the new #1 terminal if you want, so long as the wires are installed in the proper firing order from that point and there is clearance to rotate distributor housing. Hope this makes sense.

 

Sorry for the late response, been a Lil busy with the family.. OK so I used the tdc tool, followed the steps you provided, the center of the two marks I made landed right at 0. I feel confident in stabbing the distributor into the block.. Now the truck idles well when we set the timing.. But when put in gear it loses power BIG time. I was thinking of doing a compression test next.

 

That's a good plan, a mechanic's vacuum gauge connected to manifold would be useful too and a lot easier. A mechanically healthy engine (piston rings & valves) in good tune will pull 18 to 20 inches at idle. There is a reason the cylinder compression test is on page 1 of every tune-up manual though. Taking things step by step though will find the fault. Do both. You're finding out what it ain't.

 

Is the computer advancing the timing?

 

No it is not advancing. I removed the spout/pill before adjusting the timing. And put it back in while engine was off after I was done

 

Sorry. I guess my question was not specific enough. With the spout installed, is the computer advancing the ignition timing? It will advance the timing even at idle which is why you had to remove the SPOUT to set base timing. Does it (advance) change when you rev up the engine/ goose the throttle?

 

The valves got damaged. So I got the engine swapped out on it... Thanks everyone for yall's help!