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I have an 01 v10 4wd excursion with 150k miles. A couple weeks ago I put some bigger tires on it ( 285-75-16). Once I did the ABS light came on and it started making a grinding like noise once you were nearly stopped. I drove it a few times after first hearing and at one stop the resistance was bad enough to stop the truck while going slow in the parking lot. Once i got back on the road though it freed up and made it home fine. I commented about it here and was told probably sticking brake pins. We were about to have a baby and didn't have time to mess with it. Now 2 weeks after the baby I decide to mess with it. The calipers were looking bad so I decided to stop at the local parts store and get 2 new front calipers and pads. I get them put on and jump in it and the noise is still the same. I'm a little frustrated to say the least. I bought this truck this time last year online from up north and the guy got over on me. I'm a Ford guy and this thing has been nothing but problem after problem, most of which has been from northern conditions. I jack the truck up and the left wheel has more resistance when spinning it by hand than the right side. That resistance has been more all along though and I just replaced the front hub this winter (Motorcraft hub) because I thought it was causing another noise I heard in the front, It also didn't fix that noise At this point I'm not real sure what to do. I like the idea of putting some new parts on the truck but really don't like that way of troubleshooting
When you spun it, your front axle shaft was not engaged correct? If you have a new bearing. It should all be rolling smooth unless you got a bad bearing. Did you inspect your thrust washer and spacers while you were in there?
You could have got a bad caliper as well from the part store. I had one start leaking 6 months after I put it on. Pull the wheel off. Remove the brake caliper and re install the wheel. That would eliminate that from the equation. If it's still there then only thing turning is your wheel bearing. Unless it's trying to turn your front axle with it. If it's turning your front axle it's trying to run in it 4x4. Remove your outer locking hub and repeat. If it is not dragging something is wrong with your locking hub. Or your end axle shaft. If that all looks good I would say you have something going on in your front transfer case holding the axle in.
Here is a good diagram of your front axle. I just went through mine. These guys had good prices. Quick shipping if your interested. But I really like there diagram so you can see all the parts. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c123...9_to_2004.html
When you spun it, your front axle shaft was not engaged correct? If you have a new bearing. It should all be rolling smooth unless you got a bad bearing. Did you inspect your thrust washer and spacers while you were in there?
You could have got a bad caliper as well from the part store. I had one start leaking 6 months after I put it on. Pull the wheel off. Remove the brake caliper and re install the wheel. That would eliminate that from the equation. If it's still there then only thing turning is your wheel bearing. Unless it's trying to turn your front axle with it. If it's turning your front axle it's trying to run in it 4x4. Remove your outer locking hub and repeat. If it is not dragging something is wrong with your locking hub. Or your end axle shaft. If that all looks good I would say you have something going on in your front transfer case holding the axle in.
Here is a good diagram of your front axle. I just went through mine. These guys had good prices. Quick shipping if your interested. But I really like there diagram so you can see all the parts. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c123...9_to_2004.html
I went out and checked and the left axle was spinning when i turned the tire. I removed the locking hub and the axle quit spinning but the resistance didn't change. I guess I know I have a front looking hub issue anyways now. I just got in from a 13 hr shift and didn't feel like pulling the caliper. I did not inspect any thrust washers or spacers when I had replaced the front hub as it was the first one I had changed and didn't really know what to look for.
It got to bothering me and I wanted to know so I ran back out and decided to pull the caliper off and check it. My Milwaukee 1/2 electric impact and my jack was still under the car port so I knew it wouldn't take long. I pulled the caliper off and the brake disc and the hub is definitely where the resistance is. It doesn't spin freely at all. There isn't any noise but good resistance. From your picture I'm assuming you're talking about 46 and 47 in the diagram. I don't recall inspecting any of those but I assume that I had to take the snap ring and bigger nut off when I pulled the hub. I do atv salvage on the side and I know that some axle nuts are not supposed to be tightened. I don't recall if I did or how much but could I have done something wrong on the installation or does it sound like a bad bearing already? Thanks for all the help
It's not an actual nut. It's just shaped that way. I dont understand the purpose for the shape. Other than I replaced mine. It could have something to do with the hub engadgement which could be the reason for your axle holding in if your order is wrong. Someone else could probably say 100%.
I have read on here were a few people had bad bearings out of the box. Id make sure your order is right to the diagram. The groves in the inner thrust washer go towards the inside. (That's the way mine came out and I put back). Also make sure your snap ring is seated. On the one side I had, I pushed the axle to far and had to pull it back to get it to seat in the grove.
Not sure if there is a break in time for the bearing. How much more resistance are we talking?
Yeah I see that its not an actual nut now. My snap ring is seated fine. With the wheel and brakes off there is no free spin at all. You have to put pressure to spin it, its definitely not what a free pinning hub and bearing and hub should feel like. I figure thats why my ABS light came on also. I think I read where that can cause it.
I have an update. The first thing I noticed was that the wire for my ABS sensor had been rubbing and was cut, so that was the ABS light. I went ahead and bought another wheel hub assembly from my local parts store. It was a precision brand. I don't know what the quality is but the local store is only 7 minutes from me and they have always done me right. It has a year warranty but they said if they can recognize it as there part they'll take care of me. The Motorcraft only lasted 4 months so hopefully it will be better then it. There was definitely a difference in the resistance in the 2 hubs. The bad news is once I got everything on the grinding noise I've been hearing was still there with no change. I drove down my rode very slowly and feel like I can hear some kind of noise at slow speeds but it is very clear when you go to stop. I can't hear anything just driving down the road at normal speeds and using the brakes though. I do have good vibration at 45-55 and 63-70mph. I don't know if it could be related. At this point other than the rotors I don' know what would be making it. Anyone know where to go from here?
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