My 92 ranger 2.3 is only running on two cylinders,I have a bank on one of my coils that’s dead not firing from the coil.I have two spare coils and I tried both of them in its place as well and the same bank is dead on all 3 coils.leading me to believe it’s not the coils.maybe a half fried ICM? I wiggle tested the harness and connectors and it didn’t make a difference

 

At KOEO, use your multimeter on the 20 volt DC range to measure for 12 volts B+ to the problem coil pack electrical connector + primary lead contact, to see if B+ is getting To the coil in question. If it is, then for some reason that coils primary winding isn't being ground switched to make spark.

 

I have B+ at koeo, The coil ohm appears good.when I pull the plug wires at the coil there is no spark across the gap.Is it possible that the plug wires are bad and that’s why I am not getting an arc at between the coil and plug wires?

 

Ok good feedback & good idea to have tested the primary winding for continuity. If you have B+ To the coil packs at KOEO & the troublesome coil ohms out ok but isn't making spark, as the swapped in coil packs didn't, lets think about this some more. As noted in my #2 post the troublesome coil primary winding Isn't being ground switched to make spark, for some reason.

EDIT: After thinking about it some more, I suppose you could have a open Secondary winding on the coil pack in there now, though not likely to be that on All those coil packs, but having been messed with by Murphys Law, check that coil packs Secondary winding resistance just in case you have more than one problem.

Could be a faulty ICM, dual vane crank sensor, faulty electrical connector pins/sockets, or wiring run problems with those items, or maybe a faulty ECM, all in about that order.
SO, to try & help focus your trouble shoot some, have you used your scan tool, or code reader to scan the ECM for trouble code clues ? If so, post All code Numbers as they can help focus a trouble shoot.

If you don't have a code reader, or scan tool that make it more accurate & easier to retrieve codes, as this is a OBD-1 diagnostic system, you can still query the ECM for code number clues by using one of these electrical hook ups to blink the code Numbers on a test lamp, or the dash CEL, or wave the stored codes on a analog meter. http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/
Post All trouble code Numbers. More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

I connected my red brick snap-on the only code that came back was 224(coil).I also recorded all the live data KOER, however nothing caught my eye there. I conducted a wiggle test while connected to the scanner again found nothing.snap-on picks up everything and no ECU or other codes were picked up. I erased the 224 code and it came right back. The IMC tested good on a wellls gen.III tester. My experiences with the CPS are they usually just fail to a no start condition.This dual vane you speak of I don’t know anything about those.when I first got the truck 2 years ago the 224 code was present and the light was on but the truck ran well and I just didn’t fool with it.about the last month it’s gotten almost where I really cannot drive it. I drive this truck a 1000 miles a week and I need it dependable. I changed the spark plugs two weeks ago. All the old plugs were a nice tan color so the engine is still good.

 

OK, maybe try having a read here & see if this helps your trouble shoot. https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...sensor-tests-1

 

Issue solved ,the problem was a faulty ICM.even though I had it tested and tested good.The truck was still running badly and stalling after I got all cylinders firing. I reconnected my snap on scanner and a new code emerged that hadn’t been there before, an EGR code. I replaced the EGR pressure sensor so now the truck is running great.

 

Ok, good find, fix, feedback & good diagnostic trouble shooting use of your scan tool & to hear all now seems well & your "on the road again"!!!

Edit: We've heard from several members over the years that their ICM's have passed numerous bench tests, but were found to be faulty when they were replaced & all problems cleared up. SO, it seems the parts stores ICM bench testers leave something to be desired, or maybe the folks using them aren't properly doing so. I'd take a hair dryer, or heat gun to warm that puppy up during a bench test, especially if the problems were happening after the engine/ICM was warmed up.

In one case the members Dad, a retired Electrician, applied new heat sink compound to the ICM mounting & the intermittent problem cleared up. That ICM had passed a bench test also, as I remember.
Anyway if your curious, you could try cleaning the old ICM & applying a good quality heat sink compound to it before mounting & see if it'll make any difference.