Ironic, because my question was should I fix something that isn’t broke, but Ford already beat me to it.

It is kind of annoying, in the name of innovating just to innovate, companies are constantly “fixing” problems that don’t exist.

As soon as it gets back from the cam phaser replacement, then the IWE TSB is my next project. Thanks!

 

If you are going to do the TSB fix, do it before your hubs and actuators are damaged. I waited too long, thinking that the problem was fixed under warranty. It wasn't. it just delayed the inevitable. Now the left hub/wheel bearing is shot, and I'm replacing the right one because I don't want a new one on just one side. I'm curious to see how much metal is in the hub grease, and how much of the gear ends are chamfered off. The hubs must have gone bad from metal contamination, as they are OEM and only have 70k miles.

 

If it takes you more than 5 minutes to fix the problem - you're doing it wrong!

 

I figured you’d pick up on that when I called it a “project.” I realize it’s dead simple and quick, LOL.

 

Thank you. That’s pretty much what I’m thinking, just looking for some confirmation.

So question…since mine aren’t broken yet, I’ll leave the factory hubs and just pull the vacuum line and plug it.

But since yours need to be replaced, are you replacing them with factory hubs, or are you doing the RCV or Dorman hubs that delete the vacuum and stay full time engaged? They’re only like $200 I think, not sure how much the OEM hubs are.

 

After a previous TSB from Ford giving direction on how to trouble shoot the vacuum system, Ford gave up a decided to delete the vacuum supply to the hubs, in effect causing them to stay permanently locked.

MC-10214754-0001.pdf

On my truck, I will use SKF hubs and RCV eliminators. OEM wheel bearing hubs are about $75 more each. I will then remove any unnecessary vacuum lines, and cap the ones off as shown in the TSB I linked to. I already have the parts and will get to it when the temps are in the 70s next week, A non insulated steel building is a cold place to be when it's in the 20s and 30s outside. I also need to replace the valve covers too. I.m not looking forward to that job. But when I'm done I will have a nice quiet front end that will always go into 4x4 without any weird noises, and I won't have oil dripping on my exhaust anymore.

 

Nice! Yeah it’s been in the negatives over night and single digits to low teens in the day here. -2F right now as I sit in my patrol car hoping the county can be good so I don’t have to get out in it LOL. SUlupposed to be 60 next week tho. SUPER excited.

I don’t have any issues with my valve covers thank goodness. It’s at the dealership for cam phasers and I had them look it over for leaks and the only one they found was the oil pan of course. But I plan to keep an eye on the valve covers. I know they’re prone to crack and leak.

 

If they are doing cam phasers, you're more than likely getting new valve covers anyway. It's almost impossible to remove them without damaging them

 

I hope so!


By the way, got your PM but I don’t have PM privileges yet to reply! Thank you!

 

Yesterday I put two new wheel hub bearing assemblies on and two IWE eliminators made by RCV. The installation was fairly easy. The hardest part, if you want to call it that, is removing the brakes to be able to remove the hubs. If you're not doing hubs, the brakes can stay on.

I expected the driver side IWE would be the worst, but it was the passenger side that fell apart upon removal. There was no way it was holding vacuum, and that's probably what did it in. They are made by Warn, as stated on the housing "www.warn.com". They are lightweight, with plastic surrounding a relatively narrow engagement gear. If you see one off the truck, it isn't confidence inspiring. The install of the RCVs was easy, just slide it over the axle splines and then feed it into the hub splines. Most videos I've seen show them stalled dry, with no grease, but I decided to put a light coat of blue synthetic grease on the splines anyway. I took it for a test drive afterwards and all of the old noise was gone. Before it was roaring like it has mud tires on it, and the driver side would start to rattle slightly.

I doubt I will see much of a mileage hit, if any, as I believe that the lack of vacuum on the broken passenger hub left it engaged and it broke. I suspect that happened in the fall, when I heard a bad noise come from the hubs while driving. I put in in 4 high when that happened, and the noise stopped, so I knew it was an IWE. Since then, there has been the roaring noise on the highway while in 2wd. Now it's quiet and shift in and out of 4x4 with ease. No waiting, no popping, no clunking.

I've read comments on line that many are concerned about contamination with the RCV eliminators. It shouldn't be an issue. The axle to hub splines cannot possibly seal, and does not with the factory IWEs, or it could not spin. There is just a collar on the IWE around the end of the axle shaft. The seals in the IWE are for vacuum purposes only. Water can, and does, still get past the axle shaft, just as it would in any vehicle, but it only contacts the splines between the two. The bearings in the hub are protected by the connection between the axle shaft and the hub.

So, hopefully this will eliminate any further issues. All the CV boots, looked great, so I don't anticipate a problem with them any time soon. If so, the axles are no more difficult to replace than the hubs were. I've been dealing with this issue off and on for years. Ford repaired it first under warranty (the only issue I had under warranty), by replacing the vacuum solenoid. After a few years, the issue would happen on a cool morning, every once in awhile, until the failure that happened in the fall.

https://www.rcvperformance.com/rcv-ultimate-iwe-eliminator-set-for-ford-raptor-10-up-f-150-04-up.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqvWQoQ687n2zymXBvTUAMF17xah0 gEb2XLxOKe6FxzVbA_136m

 

I’m doing the delete this weekend. I ordered some 1/4 inch vacuum line caps. I think that’s the right size. For now I just have the solenoid unplugged. But it bugs me having something unplugged, LOL.

 

Yeah, I unplugged the solenoid when the noise got to be an every time I drove it annoyance. Plugged it back in when the job was done yesterday.

I was thinking about eliminating all of the unused vacuum lines, but leaving them in place hurts nothing. I'm going to vacuum test the vacuum reservoir, if it leaks I'll cap it off. Not sure if I should replace it if it does, as I don't think it has anything to do with brake performance, that's what the vacuum pump is for. But I don't want a leak in the system. I know I had a leak when the passenger hub was damaged though.

I plugged the vacuum lines that go to the hubs with machine screws and silicone grease Then I zip tied them out of the way, in the event that I should ever want to return to the original vacuum hub design.

 

nevermind/delete please!