I miss manual locking hubs ☹️. I disconnected my 12v actuator a while ago. But from what my issue was the drivers side stayed engaged while the passenger disengaged and resulted in my transfer case spinning the wrong direction when i did used it and burned the clutch inside the transfer case. So...i think id rather have the whole system with permanently locked hubs from the get-go. Had a Chevy and frontier with zero issues in the front end or transfer cases even though they're locked all the time. Only engagement point is the transfer case. Just need to make sure the fuilds are changed and I got well over 140,000 miles on both those before trading. Unfortunately I think Ford needs to reevaluate this whole system. I love my f150 don't get me wrong but really. 70,000 miles and I have had to replace iwes and the transfer case.

 

has anyone heard of the IWE's working but still making a scraping noise?

 

Sure. The IWE's are disengaged by applying vacuum and engaged by dropping the vacuum, whether by activating the IWE vacuum solenoid or by disconnecting the vacuum lines.
The grinding noise is caused by the splines on one part of the IWE rubbing against the splines on the mating part. This can be caused by, among other things, weak vacuum not disengaging them completely or defective IWE's. Ford's approved fix is to disconnect and cap the vacuum lines thereby causing the IWE's to be permanently engaged.

Other than a whole lot of ugly noises coming from the front wheels the big danger is that if allowed to continue grinding, so much junk will be created and the splines damaged to such an extent that it won't be possible to engage the hubs when you want to.

I disconnected and plugged my vacuum lines years ago. No further problems.

 

May I ask where you plug the lines at? If I disconnect the check valve from the solenoid, do I put a cap on the check valve and a cap on the solenoid? Sorry, female here that has done so much research on this issue (replaced both hub actuators, bearings, check valve, and solenoid) and still having the grinding issue here and there thinking it is coming from passenger side

 

The IWE solenoid is on the right. Disconnect and plug the vacuum line just past the check valve. Total cost: 2 screws and a wire tie.

 

Put a plug in these 3 places? Sorry for the question...just want to do it right! I appreciate your help!!!

 

No. Just the two shiny screws you circled on the left by the check valve. In my case, I cut the vacuum line a couple of inches past the check valve and plugged both ends with a tight fitting screw but if you'd prefer not to cut anything you could just remove only the check valve and plug both ends. All of the other hoses and connections you have circled are original and undisturbed.

If you can't get to it right away, I'd suggest you run in Four Wheel Auto until then. This will keep the IWE's engaged and prevent any further grinding and damage.

 

Thank you for your patience! So...where I have the red mark is where I will disconnect and cap both ends?

 

You got it! The IWE's will stay engaged. No more funny noises and all four wheel drive modes will function normally.

 

Appreciate you more than you can imagine! I am so sick of dealing with it and trying to replace and change the parts every week. I think I have gone through 3 sets of actuator hubs in the past 2 months thinking they were defective and I am just at my wits end!!!

 

Don't feel bad. Ford produced a barely functional design and then continued to use it year after year even though they knew it was problematic. People changed vacuum solenoids, check valves and entire IWE assemblies to no avail. Companies made a lot of money selling "IWE Eliminator Kits" that did nothing more than remove the IWE's and replace them with solid hubs Ford's final approved "fix" was to put out a bulletin to do exactly what most people had already done disconnecting and plugging the vacuum lines.

Good luck with your truck. Any further questions feel free to ask.

P.S. At least you don't have a plastic engine oil pan. I'm on my fourth. Another one of Ford's better ideas!

 

Tell me about it. I just got a $1400 estimate to replace my hybrid oil pan on my 2018 Lariat. I declined and was going to do it myself but damn that’s a daunting task after watching a video. Multi-day project.

As far as the IWEs, I’ve never had an issue with mine, but after reading so much on them, I’m thinking about prophylactically doing the TSB “repai” and pulling the vacuum line and capping them.

What is everyone’s opinion about doing it to prevent issues if you don’t already have them?

 

When they start howling, they're eating themselves alive. Why wouldn't you do it preemptively?

 

I mean that’s my question LOL 😂. Is there any downside to preemptively doing it (other than MAYBE a loss in fuel mileage). There is so much conflicting info out now. Some say it adds wear and tear. Some say it doesn’t, look at Chevy and Dodge cause their hubs are full time engaged.

I just don’t want to trade one problem that’s not yet a problem for another if that makes sense.

 

If there's a downside I haven't found it. I disconnected and plugged mine years ago and haven't had any problems and haven't seen any change in fuel mileage.

As you say, other manufacturers have gone with permanently engaged front axles rather than an overly complicated vacuum system. Years ago I owned a 2005 F350 SD that had vacuum operated hubs BUT those hubs also had manual control dials on them. Ford understood that they wanted a backup system in case the vacuum system malfunctioned. Then Ford had a better idea.....